Fish tank stand

[ndz98]

I've about finished with this stand. All I have left is to put in the bottom. I was wondering if it would be alright to just take out the 2 x 4's since they don't actually support any weight. It would be easier if I could cut a big rectangle for the bottom rather than having to cut around for those 2 x 4's at the bottom. What do you think?

 

[nautical_nathaniel]

Keep the 2x4's. They don't add much weight and it's always best to over-engineer when it comes to structural support

 

[ndz98]

Keep the 2x4's. They don't add much weight and it's always best to over-engineer when it comes to structural support

Well I think one of the 2x4's is a sliver too long and it sort of makes the stand just a hair unlevel. That's also sort of why I was wondering if I could just do away with them.

 

[Idoc]

Those supports are helping to keep your stand square. Not sure I'd remove them. Maybe we have an engineer or someone with alot if stand building experience to chime in.

A trick I did cutting around all those parts sticking out...put the plywood sheet you are going to cut under the stand and trace out the outline. Mine came out with a perfect fit.

 

[Idoc]

Well I think one of the 2x4's is a sliver too long and it sort of makes the stand just a hair unlevel. That's also sort of why I was wondering if I could just do away with them.

Use a reciprocating saw and cut it off.

 

[Greybeard]

Looks to me as if your 4 'frames' are pocket screwed together. Are they glued, as well? How are the corners attached? What is that, 1x6" pine?

IF the four frames are glued as well as screwed, _AND_ the four frames are securely attached at the corners (glued, preferably) so that you don't get any racking / twisting movement, then you might get away without the 2x4's. Most of the weight is straight compression load, but every time you (or a kid) leans on it, you get fairly high levels of racking stress.

If, on the other hand, the only way your frames are built is with the pocket screws, no glue, and the panels are not securely glued into a stable box structure... or if the corners are only attached to each other by screwing into the 2x4's, then no, I would say that it won't hold.

Amount of weight going on the stand makes a good deal of difference too... Figure 10 lbs per gallon, at least. If you're setting a 10" tall frag tank on there, it'd be a dramatically different load from a 30" tall display tank. Planning a canopy that sits on the tank? Add that weight too...

If it can't stand several people standing on it... dancing 'The Twist'... then it probably should be stronger. A living room full of broken glass, water, and sand is a real nightmare to come home to.

If it's just a bit high in one spot, I'd take a rasp to it, make it level, and leave the supports.

 

[ndz98]

Looks to me as if your 4 'frames' are pocket screwed together. Are they glued, as well? How are the corners attached? What is that, 1x6" pine?

IF the four frames are glued as well as screwed, _AND_ the four frames are securely attached at the corners (glued, preferably) so that you don't get any racking / twisting movement, then you might get away without the 2x4's. Most of the weight is straight compression load, but every time you (or a kid) leans on it, you get fairly high levels of racking stress.

If, on the other hand, the only way your frames are built is with the pocket screws, no glue, and the panels are not securely glued into a stable box structure... or if the corners are only attached to each other by screwing into the 2x4's, then no, I would say that it won't hold.

Amount of weight going on the stand makes a good deal of difference too... Figure 10 lbs per gallon, at least. If you're setting a 10" tall frag tank on there, it'd be a dramatically different load from a 30" tall display tank. Planning a canopy that sits on the tank? Add that weight too...

If it can't stand several people standing on it... dancing 'The Twist'... then it probably should be stronger. A living room full of broken glass, water, and sand is a real nightmare to come home to.

If it's just a bit high in one spot, I'd take a rasp to it, make it level, and leave the supports.

I do have pocket screws as well as wood glue applied to the top and bottom frames. Shouldn't the cross brace at the top help with any twisting that might occur? And if I use pocket screws and screw the bottom panel into each side, that should help with any twisting also, right?

 

[ndz98]

Looks to me as if your 4 'frames' are pocket screwed together. Are they glued, as well? How are the corners attached? What is that, 1x6" pine?

IF the four frames are glued as well as screwed, _AND_ the four frames are securely attached at the corners (glued, preferably) so that you don't get any racking / twisting movement, then you might get away without the 2x4's. Most of the weight is straight compression load, but every time you (or a kid) leans on it, you get fairly high levels of racking stress.

If, on the other hand, the only way your frames are built is with the pocket screws, no glue, and the panels are not securely glued into a stable box structure... or if the corners are only attached to each other by screwing into the 2x4's, then no, I would say that it won't hold.

Amount of weight going on the stand makes a good deal of difference too... Figure 10 lbs per gallon, at least. If you're setting a 10" tall frag tank on there, it'd be a dramatically different load from a 30" tall display tank. Planning a canopy that sits on the tank? Add that weight too...

If it can't stand several people standing on it... dancing 'The Twist'... then it probably should be stronger. A living room full of broken glass, water, and sand is a real nightmare to come home to.

If it's just a bit high in one spot, I'd take a rasp to it, make it level, and leave the supports.

Also this is what you are talking about, correct? I can just hook that into my drill and shape the wood however?

 

[Greybeard]

Glued is good, helps dramatically. Still, unless you _need_ the full space, I'd leave the bracing. Never hurts to over build a stand. You'll likely sleep better if you leave the bracing :)

The drill rasp you showed would work, but I was actually thinking about something more like this:

https://www.amazon.com/SpeedHex-Ras..._4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1504900276&sr=1-4

If you don't have a rasp, and you do any further woodworking, it's a good purchase. Kind of like the pocket drill kit you used... just a good thing to have in a work shop. The drill rasp is more of a gimmick... it'd probably do the job, but wouldn't be of much use later. I have a very similar 4 in 1 rasp/file to the SpeedHex one I linked to. I've had it for decades, use it all the time. I think mine was made by Stanley, but I don't buy Stanley tools any more, they're quality is not what it used to be.

 

[Ryan115]

I do have pocket screws as well as wood glue applied to the top and bottom frames. Shouldn't the cross brace at the top help with any twisting that might occur? And if I use pocket screws and screw the bottom panel into each side, that should help with any twisting also, right?

I am also a big fan of over building, you never know when someone might be walking/running through the house and bump the stand.
The racking that Greybeard is talking about is not twist it is racking, like this...

Your 2x4s are somewhat taking the place of the knee braces.
Do you have any screws going into the side boards? or just the front and back?
I would recommend adding screws into the side boards and glueing the 2x4s to the 1x stock as well.