Fist time with dinos- any advice?

BrittneyC

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Going to be completely honest here in hopes for help and not too harsh of criticism

I have a 9 1/2 month old FOWLR predator tank I started with 1/3 aquacultered live rock, 2/3 dry rock and live sand.

I have a skimmer that runs 24/7 that is rated for a heavy bio load on the size tank I have, I run carbon that I change every few months, probably way more bio media than I need in the refugium that also has cheato. I do a 10-12% water change every 7-10 days that also includes vacuuming the sand bed. I have one 4" filter sock that gets changed once weekly if I am being honest- I know I need to do it more frequently but things have been really busy lately.

My chaeto has pretty much stayed the same size since I added it to the tank 6 months ago. I have never had to remove any due to growth. My skimmer is maybe 1/4 full when I empty it once a month. Admittedly I have not tested parameters very often at all after the initial cycle (waited a full 3 months for maturity before adding anything) and first couple months after adding the tank occupants and when I do it is just the basics- ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH.

My nitrates on the API test read between 5-10 and I have never tested for phosphates.

Because its a predator tank there isn't much for a CUC they get eaten often and have to be replaced.

I have been fairly successful, I think, in terms of issues with this tank. After we got through diatoms in the initial cycle stage we haven't had any real issues with nuisance algae. I rarely even get a film algae on the front and sides of the glass and can usually just get away with cleaning it once a week during water changes. I started noticing about two weeks ago that the back glass was getting a thicker brown film on it more so than usual (but still not what I would call bad) but didn't think much of it and figured it was probably due to excess silicates in the water. We use a local watermill that sells RODI water and thought maybe the filters there were needing to be changed or something along those lines. After last weeks water change and sand cleaning I noticed it was a day or two later that the sand was starting to get a brown/green color on it and one ledge on one rock started to have brown stringy algae forming with some air bubbles attached to it.

I would like to get this under control before it takes over the tank but not sure how to proceed first. Google was a bit overwhelming and quite frankly scared the daylights out of me. I am not handy with plumbing and do not feel comfortable trying to plumb a UV light but could try one of the ones that sits in the sump. I was debating on turning my skimmer off, upping my photo from 3X a week to more often, feed the few hermits and serpent star a little more, and maybe go to every other week water changes? And use a turkey baster to try and suck the dinos from the rock? I also just bought some 10 micron filter socks on Amazon that should be here tomorrow to start using- should these be changed out daily?
 

Super Fly

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I'd turn off skimmer and increase feeding to "dirty" up the water, your water is too clean. feeding nori to fish is quick way to boost PO4 while making them happy.

hope this helps.

 

GarrettT

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I'd turn off skimmer and increase feeding to "dirty" up the water, your water is too clean. feeding nori to fish is quick way to boost PO4 while making them happy.

hope this helps.

Actually Nori is used to boost no3, not po4. When dealing with dinos, you want your no3 and po4 to come from dosing directly, not from foods, as it will only accelerate their growth. I agree, take the skimmer offline or leave drain valve open.
 
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BrittneyC

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Thank yall! I have not blacked the tank out completely due to their not being much of any natural light and very little ambient lighting reaches the tank but did not turn on the tank lights yesterday.

I will read the article and appreciate the advice!
 

Bucs20fan

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You have a very clean fowlr, I didnt know how possible that was, mine stays around 20-30 nitrate and 1.0 or maybe more at times on phosphate. I have no need to test for po4 so that was the last time I checked it anyway.
 

DrMMI

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I used elegant coral dino treatment on mine and it worked like a charm.
 
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BrittneyC

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I am pretty sure I have a phosphate test kit I have never opened I will check and see when I get home to make sure it is not expired and get a reading. I will check into the elegant coral treatment if the other suggestions do not work. I am hesitant to jump to chemicals because I have not to date added any to the tank. We feed mostly live food and remove the remains of what is left uneaten within a couple hours. Every now and then I will feed a tad bit of frozen to serpent star and hermits but not often so I will increase that.
 

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