sal16cal1
Active Member
I've never done this before. How hard is it to do? Any tips.
FLUKES NOT GOING AWAY
- Thread starter sal16cal1
- Start date
- Tagged users None
vetteguy53081
Well known Member and monster tank lover
Partner Member 2024
Excellence Award
Reef Tank 365
RGB
Article Contributor
Tampa Bay Reef Keepers
West Palm Beach Reefer
Hospitality Award
Ocala Reef Club Member
305 Reef Club
Wisco Reefers
Midwest Reefer
Fish Medic
MAC of SW Florida
Rock Pool Reef Keepers
R2R Secret Santa 2023
My Tank Thread
My Aquarium Showcase
Its not and I know the thought is scary. You can safely drop salinity quickly but Must raise slowly.
It is best written by Jay:
Hyposalinity
Hyposalinity Jay Hemdal 2021 This term refers to a long-term bath treatment for marine fishes in which the salt content of the water is lowered and held below the point that certain parasites can survive. The salt level reached, and the time of the treatment are the two variables...
www.reef2reef.com
I did see flukes in the bottom of the container at least I believe so I've only done it 3-4 times. I will post a video later. I mean lets say its not flukes. What other illness would cause those symptoms (i.e lethargic, consistent scratching, no visible signs of an illness.
Stating this for the sake of completeness... You can have ich in the gills and see no visible spots. Symptoms would include twitching, scratching and heavy breathing.
I would not rule ich out so quickly, but hyposalinity would also work for ich.
I definitely would consider that route of treatment.
sal16cal1
Active Member
Screw it im going to try it on my display. It doesn't sound too hard.
As long as you have a correctly calibrated refractometer, you should be fine. Just keep an eye on the fish, and be prepared to act if necessary. Really hope this works out for you! Having a sick fish is never fun.
I also can't stress this comment enough. It's extremely important to remember this.
sal16cal1
Active Member
I read the fantastic overview on hyposalinity. In my situation how fast would you lower salinity? Over 24-48 hours?
I think 48 hours is probably ok so long as the fish is still eating. It's not a dire situation at the moment.
sal16cal1
Active Member
Should I do a 35 day treatment?
I would see how the fish responds first. This is also where this ich vs flukes conversation is important again, as, if it is ich, you need to go for at least 30 days. If it is flukes, you need to go for at least 10 days, potentially as long as 35 days.
Personally, I would say flukes is more likely, and would go up to 14 days, then raise the salinity back slowly. If you start seeing symptoms again, drop it back down and just go the full 35 days.
Good luck! Keep in posted!
sal16cal1
Active Member
Last question. I want to go down to 12 ppt. If my reader is off 1 ppt is that dangerous for the fish. 12 PPT was the lowest I’ve seen recommended
12 ppt, or 1.009 specific gravity is the correct salinity.
The use of the term "checker" worries me a bit... It's important to use a VERY well calibrated refractometer or hydrometer. I would not use any digital checkers for this.
The real trick with this is maintaining that salinity... Do you have an ATO?
sal16cal1
Active Member
I do not have a ATO. My Hanna instrument is right on the dot. I went to two LFS to get SG readings. I bought a refractometer.
The dogfish is going downhill I know copper takes 5 days to work. How long does hypo take? I found one post that says 48 hours but that’s it.
I don't think there's an easy answer for this, unfortunately. From my understanding it can vary.
If you haven't seen things getting worse, I would take that as a small victory. Hang tight! Everyone else is handling it alright? If so, I think you just coast for the moment. Please keep us updated! Videos / photos would also be great.
sal16cal1
Active Member
Video isn’t uploading for me I have a iPhone not sure why it’s not working. Everybody looks great besides the puffer who is still eating. Scratching is the only symptom for the trigger and blue spotted puffer.
I’m waiting for the “mini” cycle hopefully it doesn’t happen I didn’t have much algue my tank is 8 months old.
Last edited:
This is the most important part. If you have any selcon / vitamins, you might try soaking the food in that before you feed it to them.
Otherwise, the rest of your system looks happy and healthy! Hopefully the dog face's condition starts improving in the next couple of days. Today is day four at 1.009, correct?
sal16cal1
Active Member
Video isn’t uploading for me I have a iPhone not sure why it’s not working. Everybody looks great besides the puffer who is still eating. Scratching is the only symptom for the trigger and blue spotted puffer.
I’m waiting for the “mini” cycle hopefully it doesn’t happen I didn’t have much algue my tank is 8 months old.
Correct. Yup I’ve soaked selcon and garlic on pellets and dried blood worms. I also added general cure and seachem focus.
Ok, great! Then I'd say that's about all you can be doing at this point. Just keep us updated
.
Selcon is a fat supplement. Should be used sparingly. You want to use Vita-Chem for a vitamin soak. Help the fish by improving its immunity and ability to heal wounds by adding supplements for an ill fish to its diet as recommended in the Fish Health Trough Proper Nutrition post. Use especially Beta-1,3/1,6-D-Glucan.
You should be able to achieve 0.0 ammonia. I wonder if your biofilter is sufficient for the bio load. Maybe this tank is getting a bit too small for some of those fish?
sal16cal1
Active Member
I have that as well thank you for the heads up.
It’s possible. I know in the future I’ll have to. But I’ve been really on top of water changes and feed very carefully I don’t think it’s an issue right now. I at the rate the trigger is growing he would probably be the first to go.
Similar threads
