from T5/Metal Halide to LEDs?

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bkweibley

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Ive really been kicking around changing from My current light a 4- T5, 2 150 watt Metal Halide Current Outer Orbit light to an LED on my 90 gal bowfront. I want to be able to keep LPS and SPS The tank is 27 inches deep, will I be able to get away with going LED? Is there a real difference in the lighting growth wise from the cheap $200 units to the expensive units, or is it just a matter of extra bells and whistles but coral growth is the same?
 
I prefer a fixture that uses the latest Cree LEDs. Their Cool White mixed with Warm White is close to Full Spectrum.

I have yet to see any data on the Bridgelux Knockoffs the $200 fixtures use. I have seen them claim their Cool Whites are 10K and even 14K which is impossible for a single chip LED. As far as their spectral charts i would like to ask if this is an artist rendition or actual measurement.

Personally my corals cost thousands when added up. They are doing great under a CREE DIY Fixture.

Bill
 

WHAT’S USUALLY THE FIRST CLUE THAT SOMETHING IS OFF IN YOUR REEF?

  • A fish’s behavior or appetite changes

    Votes: 11 15.3%
  • A coral looks different or stops opening normally

    Votes: 44 61.1%
  • Water clarity or surface appearance changes

    Votes: 10 13.9%
  • Equipment sounds or flow seem different

    Votes: 8 11.1%
  • A test result catches my attention

    Votes: 14 19.4%
  • Algae or other growth starts changing

    Votes: 14 19.4%
  • I usually notice when the problem is already obvious

    Votes: 3 4.2%
  • It depends on what’s going on

    Votes: 13 18.1%
  • Other (Post in the comments)

    Votes: 1 1.4%
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