Hammer coral

[sascoaquatics]

Hi got this coral 2 days ago and just want to check if you guys think it’s quite skinny and if I should spot feed lysis or brine

sorry had to keep it on there clownfish photobombed

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

its not happy, and I wouldnt say its hungry, thats not the issue.
Better to list your water parameters, so folks can help you find out why its unhappy.

 

[ying yang]

Think one of important things with corals like hammers, torches,frogspawn etc is to see if flesh on Skeleton is receding, you can see this if bare Skeleton without any algae as if flesh recedes and no algae = done it recently ,if algae there then happenned over a longer time.
I know you just thinking basic question of does it look OK and can I feed it but often having more Information like parameters, light,flow,placement, fish,livestock in tank can help others to help you incase you think all ok but missed something that someone else catches kind off thing.
After 2 days in your tank it's still aclimitizing,so usuallybgets suggested to start it off low in tank but not on sandbed so sand doesn't irritate it as much then slowly move closer /higher in tank so gets more light or use acliminastion mode on your lights if available, mixed verdicts on whether to feed a newly Introduced coral or let it settle in first,me personally ( not got years and decades in reefing ) would think best to let coral settle in first and get parameters in check and stable for week or 2 first whilst slowly moving higher in tank then look at feeding smaller items either with pumps briefly turned off or a bottle/ container over it whilst it eats if got any shrimps/ crabs/ fish that can steal food or just to help it eat in general.
Polpys are out but not fully extended but could be because newly introduced.
Is it a new tank ?
Did you coral dip it?
See anything drop off if so ?
Didn't hold it out water with tentacles dropping down as this can damage them ?

 

[sascoaquatics]

Think one of important things with corals like hammers, torches,frogspawn etc is to see if flesh on Skeleton is receding, you can see this if bare Skeleton without any algae as if flesh recedes and no algae = done it recently ,if algae there then happenned over a longer time.
I know you just thinking basic question of does it look OK and can I feed it but often having more Information like parameters, light,flow,placement, fish,livestock in tank can help others to help you incase you think all ok but missed something that someone else catches kind off thing.
After 2 days in your tank it's still aclimitizing,so usuallybgets suggested to start it off low in tank but not on sandbed so sand doesn't irritate it as much then slowly move closer /higher in tank so gets more light or use acliminastion mode on your lights if available, mixed verdicts on whether to feed a newly Introduced coral or let it settle in first,me personally ( not got years and decades in reefing ) would think best to let coral settle in first and get parameters in check and stable for week or 2 first whilst slowly moving higher in tank then look at feeding smaller items either with pumps briefly turned off or a bottle/ container over it whilst it eats if got any shrimps/ crabs/ fish that can steal food or just to help it eat in general.
Polpys are out but not fully extended but could be because newly introduced.
Is it a new tank ?
Did you coral dip it?
See anything drop off if so ?
Didn't hold it out water with tentacles dropping down as this can damage them ?

@LordofCinder, @ying yang I’m due a water change tomorrow so that may be a reason but the KH is 7 Ca 450 I’m going to the shop tomorrow to check because I think I am doing mg test wrong as results don’t make sense. I have got asterina starfish and had to take one of the hammers skeleton. And I know that they annoy corals and so tomorrow I’m buying a shrimp to remove them. The tank is 90l with 2 clowns, 1 firefish, and one Zoanthid. Tank is 2 years old but the hammer and Zoanthid which I got 2 days is the first time I’ve done coral for flow I have a Nero 5 running very low as it’s in a small tank. The hammer is lightly dancing in the amount of flow. My light is the one thing I’m not as happy with but it’s a FluvalSmart aqua sky. It has percentages for each colour (red, green, blue, white) I’m running 90% blue, 10% white, 10% red. I did not dip it. I haven’t seen anything drop of it nor did I hang it upside down. I also have 1 cleaner shrimp Im going back to the shop tomorrow do you think I should bring it and get the store owner to check it as I’m not that knowledgable about checking for illnesses? I'm guessing your in England because of your badge so the shop is called aquatic emporium not sure if you know it but just thought I would say if it helps?

 

[ying yang]

Yeah in liverpool and not heard off that shop .
As for removing coral and bagging it up and taking back to shop,that would just add more stress to the coral imo.
My experiences with torches ( I know different than hammers ) but had 3 and found them very temperamental,lasting from 2 days-3 months and just slowly receded and then poof gone.
Let's call in @vetteguy53081 as more knowledagble than me on these and gives out lots of sound advice.

But maybe just something as simple as only 2 days in tank or your flow a little off,I know you say gently waving in the current so doesnt sound like you blasting it with direct flow as most if not all corals prefer indirect random flow rather than direct blasting them flow.
Your 3 fish not known to nip at corals ( some clownfish can irritate hammers,torches, frogspawn ) especially of newly introduced small frag.looks like you got it quite high up on rocks and no fish like one my wrasses that keeps dive bombing the sand and sand going everywhere lol as sand in the corals can irritate them.
Not familiar with your light but if you got coral high in Rocks and didn't start off low,could the 90% setting be to high I wonder?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Its not happy and likely not ready for this tank as hammers need stable conditions and if a newer tank, will not be happy. They do well in lower third of tank but not in sandbed. although they are not terribly picky when it comes to the placement in your tank. The trick would really be just to avoid the extremes. . . . . . Avoid extremely bright locations or areas of very high current, and avoid areas that are too dark or with currents that are too low. Fast currents risk damaging the soft, fleshy polyps (and getting an infection). Bright lights will cause bleaching. Insufficient lighting will cause the coral to wither away and starve to death.
Hammer corals only require a moderate amount of light for photosynthesis and can grow well in the intermediate regions of your tank. Just about any reef LED lighting should be sufficient for most tanks. Reduce white light intensity and get it off the sand bed which sand can irritate it.
The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.

 

[sascoaquatics]

Its not happy and likely not ready for this tank as hammers need stable conditions and if a newer tank, will not be happy. They do well in lower third of tank but not in sandbed. although they are not terribly picky when it comes to the placement in your tank. The trick would really be just to avoid the extremes. . . . . . Avoid extremely bright locations or areas of very high current, and avoid areas that are too dark or with currents that are too low. Fast currents risk damaging the soft, fleshy polyps (and getting an infection). Bright lights will cause bleaching. Insufficient lighting will cause the coral to wither away and starve to death.
Hammer corals only require a moderate amount of light for photosynthesis and can grow well in the intermediate regions of your tank. Just about any reef LED lighting should be sufficient for most tanks. Reduce white light intensity and get it off the sand bed which sand can irritate it.
The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.

@vetteguy53081 @ying yang Ok here is an update video and I can show you placement. also tank is 2 years but these are my first corals

 

[sascoaquatics]

@vetteguy53081 @ying yang ive looked more and I think its receding, how would I make it better?
Sorry as well does my Zoanthid look ok?

 

[Dburr1014]

@vetteguy53081 @ying yang Ok here is an update video and I can show you placement. also tank is 2 years but these are my first corals

Flesh in the last picture shows receding.
You need more water movement so it can get rid of waste. It needs to move more.
I agree with ying yang, new to tank, don't feed it yet. Feeding will most likely make it worse.
Need about 150 par.
Don't bring it back, that is only more stress. Do you not have dip? I like coral cleaner but that is moot now.

The zoo looks good, but again, more movement and its stretching for more light.
Do you have access to a par meter?

 

[sascoaquatics]

Flesh in the last picture shows receding.
You need more water movement so it can get rid of waste. It needs to move more.
I agree with ying yang, new to tank, don't feed it yet. Feeding will most likely make it worse.
Need about 150 par.
Don't bring it back, that is only more stress. Do you not have dip? I like coral cleaner but that is moot now.

The zoo looks good, but again, more movement and its stretching for more light.
Do you have access to a par meter?

@Dburr1014 I don't have dip but I can buy some if I got some should I take out the coral and dip it? I was also going to dose some KH as its gone down to 7? I do not have access to a par meter what do you recommend to do? I've also just done a water change so I will test this evening to see what water is like and can update you? oh and also on the pic of the whole tank the white you can see is the frag plug not the coral. the hammer has now closed more?

 

[mtraylor]

I think the coral looks perfectly fine. That is what you purchased. Congrats on your first coral. Don't over think it and start doing all kinds of unesecary stuff to the coral to irritate it and kill it.

If your alk is it 7. Slowly raise it and all is good. IMO if you want the coral to thrive. Leave it alone and keep your tank parms steady. Don't worry about feeding it directly. It will get morsals in the flow every now and then like it does in wild.

It looks like placement is good. I like the rock to the left of it as it looks directly under light but you should be good to go.

It's always good practice to dip corals to get things off of them. Sometimes for LPS when I get shipment I put directly in tank and dip later to reduce stress on them. So you can dip when you get you solution.

Nice coral. It will color up for you.

 

[sascoaquatics]

I think the coral looks perfectly fine. That is what you purchased. Congrats on your first coral. Don't over think it and start doing all kinds of unesecary stuff to the coral to irritate it and kill it.

If your alk is it 7. Slowly raise it and all is good. IMO if you want the coral to thrive. Leave it alone and keep your tank parms steady. Don't worry about feeding it directly. It will get morsals in the flow every now and then like it does in wild.

It looks like placement is good. I like the rock to the left of it as it looks directly under light but you should be good to go.

It's always good practice to dip corals to get things off of them. Sometimes for LPS when I get shipment I put directly in tank and dip later to reduce stress on them. So you can dip when you get you solution.

Nice coral. It will color up for you.

ok thank you very much what do you recommend I should get alkalinity to?

 

[Dburr1014]

@Dburr1014 I don't have dip but I can buy some if I got some should I take out the coral and dip it? I was also going to dose some KH as its gone down to 7? I do not have access to a par meter what do you recommend to do? I've also just done a water change so I will test this evening to see what water is like and can update you? oh and also on the pic of the whole tank the white you can see is the frag plug not the coral. the hammer has now closed more?

I would not take it out now to dip. That is for hitchhikers before it goes in your tank or for really sick coral. Yours need to get used to the tank.
7 dkh isn't horrible by any means. I like to run at 8,but don't chase the numbers. If you want to dose, okay. Don't dose a bunch, just bump it up to 7.5 today and again in a day or two to 8. Just 0.5 a day.

Generally, I like to see the flesh lower than it is. This frag was either cut low or it had this recession prior.
It can heal with stable parameters. Don't make any drastic changes from here on out and it should be okay.
Do you have any reef clubs near you to join? Sometimes a member will have a meter and can lend a helping hand. Not sure other than buying one but they are expensive.

 

[Dburr1014]

This pic is a couple years old of my hammer. You can see the flesh way past the head(2 heads). It's even got budding at the bottom where it's mounted.

 

[sascoaquatics]

I would not take it out now to dip. That is for hitchhikers before it goes in your tank or for really sick coral. Yours need to get used to the tank.
7 dkh isn't horrible by any means. I like to run at 8,but don't chase the numbers. If you want to dose, okay. Don't dose a bunch, just bump it up to 7.5 today and again in a day or two to 8. Just 0.5 a day.

Generally, I like to see the flesh lower than it is. This frag was either cut low or it had this recession prior.
It can heal with stable parameters. Don't make any drastic changes from here on out and it should be okay.
Do you have any reef clubs near you to join? Sometimes a member will have a meter and can lend a helping hand. Not sure other than buying one but they are expensive.

ok I'm going to dose some KH, I don't think I have any reef clubs do you think my LFS can offer one to bring back?

 

[Dburr1014]

ok I'm going to dose some KH, I don't think I have any reef clubs do you think my LFS can offer one to bring back?

You can only ask. What's the worse that can happen? They say no?

 

[vetteguy53081]

@vetteguy53081 @ying yang ive looked more and I think its receding, how would I make it better?
Sorry as well does my Zoanthid look ok?

Reverts back to tank age and again, hard to tweek with a newer system, but your water quality, in particular nutrients and calcium as well as feedings play a role. I feed mine Mysis shrimp. Proper lighting also important as they use light to produce zooxanthellae and still need feedings as they are animals and animals too need to eat.
Until your tank fully matures, it is going through changes and spikes and will likely upset this coral, hence recession of tissue and polyps.
These are mine under proper light and water conditions in mature tank:

 

[sascoaquatics]

Reverts back to tank age and again, hard to tweek with a newer system, but your water quality, in particular nutrients and calcium as well as feedings play a role. I feed mine Mysis shrimp. Proper lighting also important as they use light to produce zooxanthellae and still need feedings as they are animals and animals too need to eat.
Until your tank fully matures, it is going through changes and spikes and will likely upset this coral, hence recession of tissue and polyps.
These are mine under proper light and water conditions in mature tank:

how long is mature? I thought 2 years was enough? thank you very much I'm going to add some KH and then update soon

 

[ying yang]

@vetteguy53081 @ying yang ive looked more and I think its receding, how would I make it better?
Sorry as well does my Zoanthid look ok?

Zoa fully open and tall stalk so stretching for light so looking like it wants more light,as larger stalks generally means stretching for more light and smaller stalks generally means happy or to much light along with not opening as much but that could also be many other things but yours fully open so looks good.
As for your hammer coral,as I said I'm no expert on them and had 3 torches and all unfortunately died,but where your flesh meets skeloton can see algae all the way up to the flesh so that generally means been like that for a while as newly receded wouldn't of had time to grow the algae there.

Just throwing an idea out there but maybe 2 power heads facing each other at lower speeds be more beneficial than one power head at a higher flow ?
All depends on length off tank but maybe that's something to look into ,but maybe as the days you own it go into weeks it improves its polyp extension as it gets more comfortable.

Good luck

 

[mtraylor]

I like to keep dkh between 8.5 and 9. I have kept it around 7 to 7.5 before to see how corals respond. Corals looked great.you were. Allot easier to keep wild caught corals. It's just doesn't leave allot of room for mistakes. I have calcium reactor so easier to control. The only reason to get up around 8 range is to give you a buffer for changes. If you run low alk around 7 if alk gets to say 6 then things in tank can start to go bad.

IE. If you are at 8.5 and it moves to 7.5. Then you are in better position to get back to where you want to be. If your tank lives at 7 to 7.5 then I wouldn't fight it if it stays level. The key is stability. You should be checking at least once a week if you like to keep corals.