HAMMERofGold
Community Member
This post is an add on to my original build thread here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hammers-37-gallon-tall-peninsula-reef.623172/
I needed a sump, but I had a few problems.
1) I did not know the basics of how a sump worked
2) My tank was not drilled for a sump
3) The space under my tank was too small for all pre-made sumps and most tanks.
So I did my research online, took my measurements and scoured through all the fish equipment I had. I landed on a compartment configuration, and chamber design for my sump. Here was my original sketch:
Four bevels, four chambers, a refugium, and ATO system, UV Blast from an old biocube. In the end I landed with most of that, but I did need to make some changes once I got to the build phase. I went through my fish cabinet and found the pieces I thought I’d need.
I had an empty 5.5g tank that fit inside the cabinet under my 37g (a 10g was too big), so I decided I would make my own sump with that. Once I did that though, I realized the compartment for the refugium was tiny. Too small to have the impact I needed on my phosphates (I thought). So I went back to my LFS, showed them my design, told them my problem, and asked for their suggestion. They pointed me to a Skimz BR83 Bio-pellet reactor. A device that grows and houses a type of bacteria that eats not only phosphates, but nitrates as well! I picked that thing up and started to map out my bevel system.
I scavenged the stack-able media containers from my canister filter (Fluval 305 or 205) and decided I would fill those compartments with filter media for my mechanical filtration. Then, inside the same chamber, the Prizm protein skimmer would have its intake (it’s a HOB style protein skimmer). I decided to put a Plexiglas plate under the outlet of the Prizm to make sure the water that has already been processed goes into the 2nd chamber, and not back into the mechanical filtration compartments.
In the 2nd chamber, the water would then be processed by the bio-pellet reactor. In the 3rd chamber I wanted the water to move through a three-bevel system before getting to the 4th chamber. It was at this time that I found my auto top off system, the Tunze Osmolator Nano 3152, and that would go in the last compartment along with my return pump.
I had a small 2 gallon tank I was considering using as my freshwater reservoir, but it would occupy all the remaining space in my cabinet. I liked having that space available to for my equipment, so I modified my plan. I decided I would use a 5 gallon jug I had as a reservoir, and position it nearby my tank instead.
I had all my components figured out (mechanical filtration, protein skimmer, bio-pellet reactor, ATO, and return pump), now I needed to build the chambers. I purchased aquarium calk on amazon, then a sheet of Plexiglas and the Plexiglas scoring tool from home depot (I think it cost $30 all together).
You use the tool to score the Plexiglas, and then attempt to fold it so it snaps along the line you scored. It took a few tries, but eventually I had my four pieces of Plexiglas. I had measured and drawn lines on the side of my tank, and I began gluing the bevels into place. I realized as I got the right side of my sump that my hands were to big (or the tank was too small) for me to glue all the bevels in the way I wanted - so I had to scrap one of them.
I let it dry and then filled up each compartment independently to check for leaks – there were none. I had successfully created a sump out of my old 5.5g betta tank. Now all I needed to do was figure out how I was going to get the water from my display tank into my sump, since my tank wasn’t drilled.
I did a lot of research on overflow boxes, and found a lot of horror stories about them breaking and people having a saltwater flood in their house. It seemed like a high risk was associated with poorly designed or cheap overflow boxes. And so I decided I wanted a good one. I landed on Lifereef filter systems’ “prefilter box”. The siphon never breaks, that’s what the reviews said, and that’s been my experience. His website needs help, but his overflow box is solid – the online reviews all speak for themselves. I got a LifeReef Single Slimline since that’s what he recommended for the size of my tank, along with a silencer since this was going to be in the middle of my main living area.
I put it all together, and my sump came to life within a week.
The pre-filter overflow box:
The sump all set up action:
My display tank, with DJ power switch and 5 gallon reservoir under a nearby table outside of the stand:
Nearly a year after installation, my tank went from this:
To this 12 months later:
If you want to hear my full story, and learn more about my tank - please check out my build thread and leave me some comments!
Hammer's 37G Build Thread: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hammers-37-gallon-tall-peninsula-reef.623172/
I needed a sump, but I had a few problems.
1) I did not know the basics of how a sump worked
2) My tank was not drilled for a sump
3) The space under my tank was too small for all pre-made sumps and most tanks.
So I did my research online, took my measurements and scoured through all the fish equipment I had. I landed on a compartment configuration, and chamber design for my sump. Here was my original sketch:
Four bevels, four chambers, a refugium, and ATO system, UV Blast from an old biocube. In the end I landed with most of that, but I did need to make some changes once I got to the build phase. I went through my fish cabinet and found the pieces I thought I’d need.
I had an empty 5.5g tank that fit inside the cabinet under my 37g (a 10g was too big), so I decided I would make my own sump with that. Once I did that though, I realized the compartment for the refugium was tiny. Too small to have the impact I needed on my phosphates (I thought). So I went back to my LFS, showed them my design, told them my problem, and asked for their suggestion. They pointed me to a Skimz BR83 Bio-pellet reactor. A device that grows and houses a type of bacteria that eats not only phosphates, but nitrates as well! I picked that thing up and started to map out my bevel system.
I scavenged the stack-able media containers from my canister filter (Fluval 305 or 205) and decided I would fill those compartments with filter media for my mechanical filtration. Then, inside the same chamber, the Prizm protein skimmer would have its intake (it’s a HOB style protein skimmer). I decided to put a Plexiglas plate under the outlet of the Prizm to make sure the water that has already been processed goes into the 2nd chamber, and not back into the mechanical filtration compartments.
In the 2nd chamber, the water would then be processed by the bio-pellet reactor. In the 3rd chamber I wanted the water to move through a three-bevel system before getting to the 4th chamber. It was at this time that I found my auto top off system, the Tunze Osmolator Nano 3152, and that would go in the last compartment along with my return pump.
I had a small 2 gallon tank I was considering using as my freshwater reservoir, but it would occupy all the remaining space in my cabinet. I liked having that space available to for my equipment, so I modified my plan. I decided I would use a 5 gallon jug I had as a reservoir, and position it nearby my tank instead.
I had all my components figured out (mechanical filtration, protein skimmer, bio-pellet reactor, ATO, and return pump), now I needed to build the chambers. I purchased aquarium calk on amazon, then a sheet of Plexiglas and the Plexiglas scoring tool from home depot (I think it cost $30 all together).
You use the tool to score the Plexiglas, and then attempt to fold it so it snaps along the line you scored. It took a few tries, but eventually I had my four pieces of Plexiglas. I had measured and drawn lines on the side of my tank, and I began gluing the bevels into place. I realized as I got the right side of my sump that my hands were to big (or the tank was too small) for me to glue all the bevels in the way I wanted - so I had to scrap one of them.
I let it dry and then filled up each compartment independently to check for leaks – there were none. I had successfully created a sump out of my old 5.5g betta tank. Now all I needed to do was figure out how I was going to get the water from my display tank into my sump, since my tank wasn’t drilled.
I did a lot of research on overflow boxes, and found a lot of horror stories about them breaking and people having a saltwater flood in their house. It seemed like a high risk was associated with poorly designed or cheap overflow boxes. And so I decided I wanted a good one. I landed on Lifereef filter systems’ “prefilter box”. The siphon never breaks, that’s what the reviews said, and that’s been my experience. His website needs help, but his overflow box is solid – the online reviews all speak for themselves. I got a LifeReef Single Slimline since that’s what he recommended for the size of my tank, along with a silencer since this was going to be in the middle of my main living area.
I put it all together, and my sump came to life within a week.
The pre-filter overflow box:
The sump all set up action:
My display tank, with DJ power switch and 5 gallon reservoir under a nearby table outside of the stand:
Nearly a year after installation, my tank went from this:
To this 12 months later:
If you want to hear my full story, and learn more about my tank - please check out my build thread and leave me some comments!
Hammer's 37G Build Thread: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hammers-37-gallon-tall-peninsula-reef.623172/
