Help! All my zoanthids are closed

[GrouperGenius]

Let's address this again...

SG 1.024
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Phosphate 0
Ca 1350
dKH 9-10
Mg 1525 (I know a bit high... but I doubt this would do it?)
Temp: 78-81
Lighting: 70W MH for 7hrs, actinic 2x18W 9 hrs
Flow: 2 90gph pumps, 1 koralia nano

If this is true, your calcium is out of this planet. The excess Magnesium is not doing any good either.

Wouldn't the high Mag kill off the zoanthallea (sp) in the zoas?

 

[650-IS350]

Ca 1350
Mg 1525 (I know a bit high... but I doubt this would do it?)

Didn't notice either but your calcium is off big time... what is your pH ?

 

[mjmccusker]

Ca 1350
Mg 1525 (I know a bit high... but I doubt this would do it?)

Didn't notice either but your calcium is off big time... what is your pH ?

No that was a typo, my calcium was actually 350, but I measured recently at 400....

I am working on my Mg with water changes.

 

[650-IS350]

pH ? I didn't see it posted

 

[mjmccusker]

pH ? I didn't see it posted

my ph is about 8.1

 

[650-IS350]

try moving up the lights a bit... u don't have attinics right? they probably got light shocked from the new bulbs.

What are you using for flow? any recent additions?

 

[adetamor]

Just threw a volt meter in mine. Not really sure how to use it though. I had it set to 200m DCV. It was registering at about 15-20.

 

[mjmccusker]

try moving up the lights a bit... u don't have attinics right? they probably got light shocked from the new bulbs.

What are you using for flow? any recent additions?

I do have actinics... I may try moving the lights up although I doubt that is it because they were open a for a few months after the new bulb.

For flow I have a Koralia Nano as well as a pump from my refugium and a hang on for carbon. Although right now I only have one small pump going in my DT as I am trying to see if they might open with all the others shut off in case of stray voltage.

 

[scooter]

Mine closed up tight for quite some time and after checking all params, water changes, etc., nothing helped. I ran across this thread and tried it. Within a week they all opened back up.

Treating with Vitamin C

Scooter

 

[ilovereef]

didn't see your iodine level, are you adding iodine? what you can do now if you're not sure whats going on, change 30% of your water w/ RODI every 3 days. untill they open, there has to be something wrong with your water quality, don't dip it too many times because your Zoos are already stressed out, it may take some time before they open up again, do the right thing and be patient.

 

[mjmccusker]

didn't see your iodine level, are you adding iodine? what you can do now if you're not sure whats going on, change 30% of your water w/ RODI every 3 days. untill they open, there has to be something wrong with your water quality, don't dip it too many times because your Zoos are already stressed out, it may take some time before they open up again, do the right thing and be patient.

I don't test for iodine but I do use a reef additive which contains trace elements, primarily iodine... and I am working on water changes now. I will continue with the water changes, thanks.

I also intend to try dosing with Vitamin C... hopefully this works! anyone else had success?

 

[firsttime]

As I read the thread there are a lot of valuable inputs.

As you are trying to root cause your problem, I would suggest not adding new variables to the current problem.

Untill your zoas open dont try the Vitamin C.
Also dont dose iodine if you dont have an accurate way of measuring it. Your regular water change should take care of it.
Also since you are not sure what is the cause, changing water very often will also cause swings in chemisty.

The things that I would concentrate on is:
1. Check to see if any current at all ( run one equipment at a time and check for it. - you should find tutorials on the internet on how to use one.

2. Check for water quality - Alk and Calcium , primarily alk, make sure you alk stays in the good range and stable.

3. Infection ( bugs or any other kind of critters bottering your zoas)

Untill you find what the problem is, every fix you put in place might become a source of another problem.

Hope it helps.

And as with reefing nothing happens fast so be patient.

 

[650-IS350]

Watch your Alk and pH with vitamin C, it's good for some, doesn't work for others while some had bad results, even when the directions are followed. It's just like adding a carbon source like vodka and such.

 

[mjmccusker]

Watch your Alk and pH with vitamin C, it's good for some, doesn't work for others while some had bad results, even when the directions are followed. It's just like adding a carbon source like vodka and such.

I will think about the Vitamin C. I absolutely eliminated stray voltage as a problem today, as I tested thoroughly for it... nothing. I am going to start charting my pH and Alk a few times each day and see if there are any swings... I don't think there will be, but we will see.

I can also add a powerhead to increase flow. Any thoughts if this might help? At th LFS they have an incredible amount of flow for their DT and the zoas are thriving. I am only concerned about the excessive flow for my crocea...

 

[650-IS350]

polyps love good to strong flow but must be indirect flow not battering them or directly infront of the stream.

 

[mjmccusker]

polyps love good to strong flow but must be indirect flow not battering them or directly infront of the stream.

Well I checked my pH and Alk over the day today and found out the pH went from 7.8 before lights on to 8.0 at midday to 8.2 before lights out. This is a pretty big swing. Also, the dKH increased over the day from 9 to 10.

My question is, how do I keep the pH from fluctuating like that? I always thought it had to do with the Alk and Ca, both of which are in acceptable range (9/10 and ~400 respectively). Any secrets on how I can keep my pH from fluctuating?

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[GrouperGenius]

Well I checked my pH and Alk over the day today and found out the pH went from 7.8 before lights on to 8.0 at midday to 8.2 before lights out. This is a pretty big swing. Also, the dKH increased over the day from 9 to 10.

My question is, how do I keep the pH from fluctuating like that? I always thought it had to do with the Alk and Ca, both of which are in acceptable range (9/10 and ~400 respectively). Any secrets on how I can keep my pH from fluctuating?

Any help would be appreciated.

Ph increases with light. Seems like a normal swing to me.

 

[Ericm1205]

jist as grouper says, pH will drift up and down when the lights are off and on. that little bit won't hurt anything. anything less than a .5 swing either way shouldnt bother anything. i have a reefkeeper and i trend my parameters and mine goes up and down a little.
i would watch your alk. when i was having problems which killed alot in my tank my alk would go up to 15 thn down to about 7. not in the same day, but every time (3x a day to confirm alk swing)i tested it, i would get a different reading. if you have more than 4 points or higher in a day, that will cause some issues.

 

[pensfan]

Stray electrical current? Doesn't take much to irritate zoas

I had this happen to me today. I have lost several frags in the past week and have not been able to find out why. 3 of them were frags I just got in. All params have been good. I have been having some fluctuating temps. Today while moving the heater I got a little shock. I unplugged the heater and no longer got a shock when I put my hand in the water. Put in a titanium and heater and controller I had from a bigger tank. A little overkill in my 29g BC but the temp is holding steady at 80 and no more stray current. Now hopefully my other zoas that closed up 2 days ago will open again now.

 

[Ericm1205]

I had this happen to me today. I have lost several frags in the past week and have not been able to find out why. 3 of them were frags I just got in. All params have been good. I have been having some fluctuating temps. Today while moving the heater I got a little shock. I unplugged the heater and no longer got a shock when I put my hand in the water. Put in a titanium and heater and controller I had from a bigger tank. A little overkill in my 29g BC but the temp is holding steady at 80 and no more stray current. Now hopefully my other zoas that closed up 2 days ago will open again now.

stray current will kill almost everything in your tank. im glad you found it so quickly.

(Pittsburgh pens fan i presume?) if so go pens..