Are the longnoses hard to keep, they seem easier to feed. Also I will have 4 anthias in this tank and they will be feed pellets 2 times a day and then fed with the whole tank at night. (Frozen)
Did I choose the three hardest fish to keep? I am so stupid. But if they are all picky it should be easy to train them since there won't be much food aggression when there's no fish for them to compete against. I was told if you want butterflys its best to start with them.
It seems good, is san Francisco a bad brand? I like that LRS is American made and all but isn't SF also made in the US with good ingredients? Also I can order SF online. I'm going to order frozen clams and get live muscles at the store when the fish come.
I hear your point, I should actually start up my brine shrimp hatchery again just incase for when they get here. Btw does frozen baby brineshrimp work, or does it need to be live. I like to do large batches and then freeze them in gummy bear molds.
No, this is false depending on what you consider uglies.
I think march or april. Nothing magic about getting them to grow. Just stability, light, flow. I pay close attention to nutrients and keep my nitrates at 10-20 ppm and phosphates 0.1 ppm.
Lord! Slow down! One step at a time! Research and reading is your friend right now. All of us here at R2R will help but for heaven’s sake take it slowly.
Sorry... Damsels are mean when they get old and cranky. The are territorial and, soon, they decide the entire world is their territory!
Please make sure you do your homework on each of those high-maintenance fish. Each of them have very specific feeding requirements and habits. If you're looking for a work-free tank, they are the opposite. I starved a few dragonets before I realized what they need. Still, It's a ton of work just to make sure I hatch baby brine or farm the copepods they need to hunt. The wrasses will live on copepods, but they take a tank that is 6-12 months established to develop a good colony. Butterfly's have an exacting diet, as well, and require a feeder so they can eat in the proper position, or they'll starve. I don't know much about anthias other than my local guy had a crop, each roughly the size of a dime, that he was asking $100+ for. My damsel would have called those an expensive lunch.
I'm still experimenting with filtration. I'll get yelled at for this, but when my ta ks are getting ugly, I still have the best luck with a HOB (Yes, on a reef tank) and/or a canister aio alternative to a sump. The tank with a sump is just aggravating me, especially in the heat!
I think the dinos are what you are calling the purple algae. Believe it or not, you don't want those parameters you listed before to be that close to zero. Too much nitrate, hair and bubble algae chokes out the tank (red and blue legged hermit crabs took care of hair, emerald crabs take care of bubble) too few nitrates and dinos choke out everything...
Oops, I kept reading and see you already have your fish on the way. You have time to figure out now they like best to eat. There are lots of threads here that are fish-specific. That's how I found out how to not starve my dragonets, this time. I built a feeder and hatch baby brine about every 3 days. eBay and etsy have a neat butterfly feeder, also works for sea horses, go figure. One things I've learned this go-round with fish is that fresher is better. I verified the BBS because now the wrasses , tangs and dotyback wait for them to escape the feeder, too. (The nutritious thing about BBS is the yoke sack that feeds them for the first 3 days, so that how long a hatch is good for) Plus, their jumpy movement lets the fish get their hunt on and keeps them from getting bored.
