Help me to use T-slot to mount my Orphek Icons!

[MK300]

Yes. I plan on running mine perpendicular as well with the bars or blades in between. That photo still has only 5 lights not 6. You may just save a thousand bucks!

 

[Daniel@R2R]

Still trying to figure this out. I'm pretty lost. My DIY skills aren't impressive. LOL

 

[FishTruck]

If you are mounting inside a canopy... build the T slot grid and hang it from the top with stainless steel chains, so you can raise it or lower it to the perfect height.

 

[Daniel@R2R]

If you are mounting inside a canopy... build the T slot grid and hang it from the top with stainless steel chains, so you can raise it or lower it to the perfect height.

I was thinking I'd probably need to bolt the rails to the canopy top.

I was originally thinking I could just get 2 long pieces and mount them. Now I'm wondering if I need to actually build some sort of frame and insert it into the canopy. Then I started looking at all the possible pieces you can use and...now I'm totally unsure about what I should be doing. Haha!

This is the canopy.

 

[lakai]

Design your fixture with this https://www.framexpert.com/products/framedesigner/download/ and it will print out a BOM of everything you need. It's cheaper if you buy extrusions and cut it yourself but it only cost a little bit more to have them cut to size, drilled, tapped for you. There are places like mitsumi or 80/20 (really expensive) that can do it for you. Slide in t-nuts or spring loaded t-nuts are what you want if you don't want to just do blind joints.

I have mine with linear actuators that can lift the whole thing up an extra 8" if needed.

 

[Daniel@R2R]

Design your fixture with this https://www.framexpert.com/products/framedesigner/download/ and it will print out a BOM of everything you need. It's cheaper if you buy extrusions and cut it yourself but it only cost a little bit more to have them cut to size, drilled, tapped for you. There are places like mitsumi or 80/20 (really expensive) that can do it for you. Slide in t-nuts or spring loaded t-nuts are what you want if you don't want to just do blind joints.

I have mine with linear actuators that can lift the whole thing up an extra 8" if needed.

That is a NICE setup!!

 

[Perfectly_Imperfekt1]

Hi Daniel,

There's a few things that I wanted to share with you on mounting these Icons to the t-slot.

• Mounting height for these ideally from 15"-18" off the water. With your canopy that could be an issue.
• 1515 series alum t slot works great. Structurally sound and could hold your canopy if you choose to mount the t-slot to the wall with a free floating style canopy.
• The existing mounting hardware can be used. Button nut will slide into the t-slot groove. When I first mounting my Orpheks the button nut didn't slide through the slot easily. So I ordered some from Amazon that worked perfect.

Check you my CDA build(link in my signature) and you can get some ideas. I did a DIY motorized light rack with alum t-slot. There's some videos and photos of the light rack. I mounted all my drivers on the light rack with just one power cord down motorized leg. Cleaner look I think. Recently just upgraded to the Icons from the Alantic v4.

Tnutz.com is were I got all my t-slot products from. I used 80/20 website for detail information and the helpful videos on how the hardware works.
Hope this information helps.

The light rack includes 4 bar lights for supplemental and color pop. I had to get creative on how I was going to mount these bar lights with the Orpheks. But it turned out clean.