Help with Metal halide ballast not firing

[djf91]

Hey everyone,

I’m looking for help with one of my metal halide ballasts. It’s a Sunlight supply Bluewave VII dual 430 watt metal halide ballast. One of the bulbs randomly turned off in the middle of the light cycle yesterday. I turned it off, left it off for a bit, and then turned it back on. The bulb fired but is very dim and doesn’t fully reach its full brightness like the other one, and eventually the bulb turns off. I’d say it reaches 10% brightness. I’ve tried switching wires and a new bulb and it does appear to be the ballast that is the problem.

Does anybody have any knowledge of this or can offer any help?

Thanks!

 

[djf91]

Ok, so I think it might be the capacitor. It looks swollen/deformed and there’s a crack in the outer layer of it.

Can this be easily replaced/sourced?

 

[djf91]

I’m about to order this replacement capacitor: https://www.capacitorindustries.com/products/cbb66a-280r486-48-uf-280-vac-capacitor-lighting/

This seems to match up to what the label says on the capacitor in the unit.

I was just hoping someone could check my work before I go ahead and order this.

@A. grandis @jda or anyone else who’s an electrician?

 

[PaulErik]

That capacitor will work. You need to match the microfarad (µF) rating and the ballast label should state the minimum voltage rating.

 

[djf91]

That capacitor will work. You need to match the microfarad (µF) rating and the ballast label should state the minimum voltage rating.

Thank you!
Does this seem like the probable issue?

 

[PaulErik]

The capacitor in that ballast model is used to regulate lamp current and correct the power factor. Overtime they will drift and fail causing lower light output and starting issues.

 

[jda]

The few times that I have needed to replace a cap, I have just called the company and asked them. You can trace the output with a voltmeter, if you want, but I have forgotten how to do this off the top of my head. You can probably ask that too, or find a diagram online.

 

[oreo54]

Data sheet.

https://www.datasheets360.com/part/detail/005-4462-p/-4815278801545439148/

 

[A. grandis]

I’m about to order this replacement capacitor: https://www.capacitorindustries.com/products/cbb66a-280r486-48-uf-280-vac-capacitor-lighting/

This seems to match up to what the label says on the capacitor in the unit.

I was just hoping someone could check my work before I go ahead and order this.

@A. grandis @jda or anyone else who’s an electrician?

Yup, that capacitor is gone.
When I look for replacement parts I compare all the details on the labels.
I also try to make sure they look alike and they are of the same dimensions.
The last thing you want is to get a capacitor that won't fit in there!

 

[A. grandis]

One more thing ... I'm so glad I'm not the only one that goes after those parts and keep those ballasts running!!!
Take your time and find the right part! Keep us posted!!

 

[djf91]

I appreciate all of the help everyone! I ordered the capacitor. I’ll report back if it works or not. I’m considering replacing all of them.

 

[djf91]

One more thing ... I'm so glad I'm not the only one that goes after those parts and keep those ballasts running!!!
Take your time and find the right part! Keep us posted!!

I agree! And I don’t really have an option, as you know, these Bluewave ballasts aren’t built anymore. All we can do is replace parts if possible.

Ive put up a 250 watt dual Bluewave over the back of my tank right now for the time being, and while it packs a punch it’s not nearly as bright. Unfortunately, within a day of the 400w going out my Magnifica anemone has started to walk around looking for wherever that bright, 400 watt halide went.

 

[A. grandis]

I agree! And I don’t really have an option, as you know, these Bluewave ballasts aren’t built anymore. All we can do is replace parts if possible.

Ive put up a 250 watt dual Bluewave over the back of my tank right now for the time being, and while it packs a punch it’s not nearly as bright. Unfortunately, within a day of the 400w going out my Magnifica anemone has started to walk around looking for wherever that bright, 400 watt halide went.

I had to replace parts for quite a few Blue Wave and other ballasts. I've also opened and completely rebuilt some of the old hard to find reflectors. It's always a lot of fun. Capacitors are easy to replace. You're gonna be fine!
Oh man... watch that anemone closely... I think we need some amazing pictures for this thread.

 

[PaulErik]

Just a note. The capacitors in (CWA, SCWA, CWI) constant wattage autotransformer circuit ballasts, like all the probe start, most pulse start and a few HQI magnetic ballasts use the capacitor for lamp current regulation in North America. If the value varies even slightly the lamp operation (wattage) will vary a lot.
We even noticed problems with a few grow out systems browning out and having lower alkalinity consumption. The result was from failing capacitors. Now the systems are regularly measured (the wattage and power factor). Some even failed within a year after replacement. It seems some caps are not as good as previous ones but it’s also important the lamp and ballast operating parameters are met (compatible). Incompatible bulb/ballast combinations can cause excessive stress on the bulb and ballast/components.

 

[A. grandis]

Just a note. The capacitors in (CWA, SCWA, CWI) constant wattage autotransformer circuit ballasts, like all the probe start, most pulse start and a few HQI magnetic ballasts use the capacitor for lamp current regulation in North America. If the value varies even slightly the lamp operation (wattage) will vary a lot.
We even noticed problems with a few grow out systems browning out and having lower alkalinity consumption. The result was from failing capacitors. Now the systems are regularly measured (the wattage and power factor). Some even failed within a year after replacement. It seems some caps are not as good as previous ones but it’s also important the lamp and ballast operating parameters are met (compatible). Incompatible bulb/ballast combinations can cause excessive stress on the bulb and ballast/components.

Do you have any particular capacitor brand for that 400W Blueline to suggest?
Any links?
Thanks!

 

[PaulErik]

I personally would look for a major brand capacitor with a warranty that meets the specs. I have personally gone through a lot of capacitors (made in USA, Europe and China). IMO they all seem to have issues lately unfortunately. Call it crazy but the Chinese GE capacitors have been holding up well.

If anyone is unsure on lamp and ballast compatibility ask for the lamp operating spec. HQI can mean various things all around the world. HQI from China can be very different from what Europe calls HQI when it comes to electrical standards/specs.

In North America the ANSI standards specify the lamp current (starting - warmup to nominal operation), ignition voltage/peak/timing and current crest factor limits. If using a European standard lamp they need to be met properly as well. We did a lot of the compatibility testing for European bulbs. Some European bulbs match pretty close to ANSI standards but some require component alterations unfortunately.

 

[djf91]

I personally would look for a major brand capacitor with a warranty that meets the specs. I have personally gone through a lot of capacitors (made in USA, Europe and China). IMO they all seem to have issues lately unfortunately. Call it crazy but the Chinese GE capacitors have been holding up well.

If anyone is unsure on lamp and ballast compatibility ask for the lamp operating spec. HQI can mean various things all around the world. HQI from China can be very different from what Europe calls HQI when it comes to electrical standards/specs.

In North America the ANSI standards specify the lamp current (starting - warmup to nominal operation), ignition voltage/peak/timing and current crest factor limits. If using a European standard lamp they need to be met properly as well. We did a lot of the compatibility testing for European bulbs. Some European bulbs match pretty close to ANSI standards but some require component alterations unfortunately.

The temperature rating on the capacitor currently in the ballast shows 100* Celsius. The one in the link I posted shows 90* Celsius. Do you think this will be an issue?
Thanks for your help.

 

[djf91]

Just a note. The capacitors in (CWA, SCWA, CWI) constant wattage autotransformer circuit ballasts, like all the probe start, most pulse start and a few HQI magnetic ballasts use the capacitor for lamp current regulation in North America. If the value varies even slightly the lamp operation (wattage) will vary a lot.
We even noticed problems with a few grow out systems browning out and having lower alkalinity consumption. The result was from failing capacitors. Now the systems are regularly measured (the wattage and power factor). Some even failed within a year after replacement. It seems some caps are not as good as previous ones but it’s also important the lamp and ballast operating parameters are met (compatible). Incompatible bulb/ballast combinations can cause excessive stress on the bulb and ballast/components.

I noticed that on my other Bluewave dual 400 watt ballast the bulbs look a bit dimmer than the one with this blown capacitor (that was until this capacitor blew). Do you think it would be beneficial to replace the capacitors on the other ballast as well?

 

[oreo54]

I noticed that on my other Bluewave dual 400 watt ballast the bulbs look a bit dimmer than the one with this blown capacitor (that was until this capacitor blew). Do you think it would be beneficial to replace the capacitors on the other ballast as well?

Caps are sort of " consumables" nowadays.
Probably a good idea to replace them BUT I'd probably see how your first replacement goes.

Many "electronics" are listed as non-returnable.

Maybe try the one in both first?
Keep in mind caps can store a good kick of electricity.

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My dad just used a screwdriver across the terminals. NOT recommended.
Me, on the run/start cap in our ac I've never bothered with it. Just handled it carefully. ALSO not recommended.
Btw sitting caps can self charge..oddly enough

 

[djf91]

Yep that’s the plan, hopefully it works out.

I also found a thread on the other forum pointing to a full replacement for the entire ballast. I’m not sure if it’s still in stock though.

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