Heres how i qt for those who debate should you or shouldnt you.

Seansea

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Cheap 20 g tank. Any stand. $10 amazon submessible light. Pvc hiding spots. Cheap heater. $30 fluval filter. Mollys left in to keep tank cycled. Not for viewing so put somplace nobody sees and let algae run wild. The $10 light on a cheap timer will grow the stuff and help filter water and feed herbivore fish. Hardly any maintenance. Once a week water change, top off with dechlorinated tap water. Peice of cake.
 

cdemoss01

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Cheap 20 g tank. Any stand. $10 amazon submessible light. Pvc hiding spots. Cheap heater. $30 fluval filter. Mollys left in to keep tank cycled. Not for viewing so put somplace nobody sees and let algae run wild. The $10 light on a cheap timer will grow the stuff and help filter water and feed herbivore fish. Hardly any maintenance. Once a week water change, top off with dechlorinated tap water. Peice of cake.
Honestly confused
 
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Seansea

Seansea

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Basic set ups can be as good as all mod cons setups

Think alot of peeps scared to put fish in qt. Think its hard on them and ammonia spikes will do them in. Just keep one up and running and your always ready to go.
 

Dburr1014

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Think alot of peeps scared to put fish in qt. Think its hard on them and ammonia spikes will do them in. Just keep one up and running and your always ready to go.
My last 2 fish went in QT with water that was sitting stagnant for a couple months. It had all kinds of cyano growing in it. Started the pump and turned on the heater and filter for a few days before they went in.
They were fine. Not the first time I did this.
I figure the bacteria helps in some ways with ammonia.
 

TScarin

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It's not feasible for me to keep the QT up and running all the time. I keep a couple of tanks (10 and 20 gallon) in storage until I need them. I also keep a couple of sponge filters soaking in my sump (ongoing). They're relatively cheap, about 7 bucks a pop (relative to the thousands of $$$ this hobby costs, it's pretty much pennies). Whenever I need to quarantine, I setup the QT tank, pull one of the sponges from my sump and stick it in the QT with a powerhead on it. There's usually enough bacteria established on the sponge to keep the ammonia at bay. I discard the sponge when I am done with the QT and purchase a new one to stick back in the sump for "next time".
 
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Seansea

Seansea

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No treatment unless i see something. No need to make it rougher than necessary. How long do you guys qt? Im going 2 weeks with these guys
 

rhitee93

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I have a little 10gal AIO I use for QT. I went with rock and sand which most say to avoid, but I figure this thing is going to be in my life for a while, and I don't have to worry about ammonia at all anymore.

I do run copper, so I have to chase the set point a bit until the rocks are done absorbing, but the Hanna test is so quick and easy that I don't really have a problem with it. I use the cast-off water from my DT to do water changes so I can do a couple of 100% water changes for free a week apart which knocks the copper level back down to near zero even after the rocks leach it back out.

The only downside to the rock is I can't have any CUC. I run a light when I have herbivores in QT to give them something to peck at. Otherwise the lights are off and algae hasn't been much of an issue.

The QT is just idling right now. I have a couple of fish sitting at Dr. Reef right now, and they will most likely just go in here for a few weeks to observe rather than get hit with meds again.

PXL_20231130_211836826.jpg
 

Spare time

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No treatment unless i see something. No need to make it rougher than necessary. How long do you guys qt? Im going 2 weeks with these guys

So what happens if you don't see it and it makes it through, needing you to pull out all fish and potentially have some die if its a deadly disease? What if it on day 29 of QT and then the disease pops up and the whole timeline needs to restart? Given that the fish will be fine in copper for 30 days, why not just do that one extra step? Its a heck of a lot less stressful than disease or death.
 

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I have a little 10gal AIO I use for QT. I went with rock and sand which most say to avoid, but I figure this thing is going to be in my life for a while, and I don't have to worry about ammonia at all anymore.

I do run copper, so I have to chase the set point a bit until the rocks are done absorbing, but the Hanna test is so quick and easy that I don't really have a problem with it. I use the cast-off water from my DT to do water changes so I can do a couple of 100% water changes for free a week apart which knocks the copper level back down to near zero even after the rocks leach it back out.

The only downside to the rock is I can't have any CUC. I run a light when I have herbivores in QT to give them something to peck at. Otherwise the lights are off and algae hasn't been much of an issue.

The QT is just idling right now. I have a couple of fish sitting at Dr. Reef right now, and they will most likely just go in here for a few weeks to observe rather than get hit with meds again.

PXL_20231130_211836826.jpg

Dr Reef doesn't keep the copper levels high enough and only does copper for 2 weeks.
 
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Seansea

Seansea

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So what happens if you don't see it and it makes it through, needing you to pull out all fish and potentially have some die if its a deadly disease? What if it on day 29 of QT and then the disease pops up and the whole timeline needs to restart? Given that the fish will be fine in copper for 30 days, why not just do that one extra step? Its a heck of a lot less stressful than disease or death.

I have used copper before to mixxed effect. I find if fish have disease it surfaces in 2 weeks or less. And i feed heavy for the first week in qt which genearally helps them fight any disease. It also gets them use to me coming up to the tank with food so when they go in main display they see me come to tank and know it means food. The feeding heavy in a qt alot of times can result in death due to ammonia spikes. Hence the hair algae growing in tank. No ammonia spike just spike in algae growth.
 

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