High Ammonia on saltwater bucket

Jay-h

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I just went to my saltwater bucket to refill my tank (waiting on my new ATO to arrive) and I found a weird white dust floating on top of the water, so I decided to check the water parameters just to avoid any crazy thing and I found that the Ammonia was on 1.0 ppm (see picture) I also checked the Nitrite and Nitrates and they were good. I checked my tank water and everything is good too.

Dumb question coming up: Is it safe to use this water to top off my tank? I used it literally 3 days ago to do a water change and everything was good as normal.

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brclark82

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Are you using RODI to make your top off water? Chloramines, found in tap water quite often, will give a positive ammonia test. Also some rodi setups don’t do a great job getting rid of chloramines. Might want to test your source water before mixing with salt.
 

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You can’t top off with saltwater. You need to do it with freshwater (rodi, no salt).

As for the white stuff, it might be because you mixed the salt for too long and it precipitated. I suspect this ammonia test is wrong but you need to make sure of it. Try another test or bring it to your LFS to test.

You can also test your rodi water. It will have ammonia if there is some in your saltwater. Unless you’re using tap water ?
 
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Jay-h

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I was using saltwater because I removed some of it after scrapping some hair algae (I should’ve mention that before).
 
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Jay-h

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Are you using RODI to make your top off water? Chloramines, found in tap water quite often, will give a positive ammonia test. Also some rodi setups don’t do a great job getting rid of chloramines. Might want to test your source water before mixing with salt.
I was using saltwater because I removed some of it after scrapping some hair algae (I should’ve mention that before).
 

brclark82

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I was using saltwater because I removed some of it after scrapping some hair algae (I should’ve mention that before).
Yes but I am referring to the water you mix with the salt…it’s possible it contains chloramines giving you this result depending on if it’s tap or rodi or what kind of rodi system was used
 
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Jay-h

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Yes but I am referring to the water you mix with the salt…it’s possible it contains chloramines giving you this result depending on if it’s tap or rodi or what kind of rodi system was used
Ok let me test some RODI water now, I’ll post the results here.
 
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Jay-h

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You can’t top off with saltwater. You need to do it with freshwater (rodi, no salt).

As for the white stuff, it might be because you mixed the salt for too long and it precipitated. I suspect this ammonia test is wrong but you need to make sure of it. Try another test or bring it to your LFS to test.

You can also test your rodi water. It will have ammonia if there is some in your saltwater. Unless you’re using tap water ?
This is the result of the second test I did to the saltwater from my mixing bucket.

I will now test the RODI water and see where this ammonia is coming from.
 

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Jay-h

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You can also test your rodi water. It will have ammonia if there is some in your saltwater. Unless you’re using tap water ?

I can’t believe this is my RODI water, I literally got that RODI system 2 months ago, how can it have ammonia in it?
 

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brclark82

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Your tap water has chloramine in it and the carbon block in that RO buddy isn’t enough to remove it effectively. If you read the description of the item itself it specifically says it doesn’t remove chloramine unfortunately.

Fortunately you have spotted the problem, you just need a better RODI system to remove it. Nothing fancy but a good sediment filter followed by a quality 1 micron 10” carbon block (some say they are designed specifically for chloramines, not sure what that means exactly but I use it because it makes me feel good and is similarly priced to other 1 micron 10” carbon blocks) then RO and DI.

Many options but your RO buddy won’t get it done.
 
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Jay-h

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Your tap water has chloramine in it and the carbon block in that RO buddy isn’t enough to remove it effectively. If you read the description of the item itself it specifically says it doesn’t remove chloramine unfortunately.

Fortunately you have spotted the problem, you just need a better RODI system to remove it. Nothing fancy but a good sediment filter followed by a quality 1 micron 10” carbon block (some say they are designed specifically for chloramines, not sure what that means exactly but I use it because it makes me feel good and is similarly priced to other 1 micron 10” carbon blocks) then RO and DI.

Many options but your RO buddy won’t get it done.
I just have a 25g tank, could you please recommend me a good RODI system that can fit my needs? I’m sorry bro I’m still new to this and when I finally thought I was starting to do good when my tank I find out my water is bad ‍lol!
 

brclark82

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Yeah I actually ran into the same issue when I first started. Had the same RO buddy, found out I had chloramines, luckily within the return policy, and bought a better one.

I personally think the Bulk Reef Supply RODI units are hard to beat. There are lots of options and if you aren’t familiar with how they work it can be a bit overwhelming.

I would recommend the 5 stage premium 75 gpd option for you. The 5 stage gives you a second carbon block. If you can wait it usually will go on sale for close to $200 every few weeks or so.

Also the premium plus model is nice but not necessary. For $50 you get a pressure gauge, a flush valve and a pre DI and post DI TDS monitor which is helpful.
 
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Jay-h

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Yeah I actually ran into the same issue when I first started. Had the same RO buddy, found out I had chloramines, luckily within the return policy, and bought a better one.

I personally think the Bulk Reef Supply RODI units are hard to beat. There are lots of options and if you aren’t familiar with how they work it can be a bit overwhelming.

I would recommend the 5 stage premium 75 gpd option for you. The 5 stage gives you a second carbon block. If you can wait it usually will go on sale for close to $200 every few weeks or so.

Also the premium plus model is nice but not necessary. For $50 you get a pressure gauge, a flush valve and a pre DI and post DI TDS monitor which is helpful.
I really appreciate your help and time brother, I’ll do it just like you said and in the meanwhile I’ll just go to my lfs to buy water like I used to!
 

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