High Phosphates

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PapaShrimp

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I set up a new Red Sea 350 in October 2019 and started with new sand and all new life rock. My filtration so far is Red Sea RSK 600, marine pure in sump, filter sock cleaned 3 times a week and some filter floss also changed several times a week.

My tank in general has been pretty smooth, getting some some decent coral growth on softies and two torches have recently been added and are thriving:

My main issue to this point has been GHA which I largely put down to it being a new tank, however it has been quite bad with me removing good growth every week with a toothbrush.

Ive checked phosphates using the Hanna Phosphate ULR checker and I am ranging between 0.08ppm and 0.12ppm which I believe to be the main reason. Although I am running two Red Sea 90’s 11 hours a day too which I don’t think will be helping.

I do weekly 10% water changes and feed half a mysis daily.

So my questions:
1) Should I run some GFO to reduce my phosphates at this stage?
2) How big a role is lighting likely to be?
3) is this just part of cycle I should expect?
4) longer term I would like to add a refugium instead of gfo, but want the Kessil 380 light and simply can’t afford for next few months. Is this likely to be my long term answer.

Any advice or guidance would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance
PS
 

Infidel

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What do you have for a CUC? What are other tank parameters? Are you using RO/DI water for changes with 0 TDS?

GHA can be part of a cycle, but should fall off once the cycle is complete and parameters/bacteria numbers get into a balance (and the CUC is doing their job).

You can run GFO, but make sure to replace it regularly. You should also change your light cycle to 8 hours.

Edit: Oh, and phosphates should be < or = .1, although people have success at .15
 
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PapaShrimp

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What do you have for a CUC? What are other tank parameters? Are you using RO/DI water for changes with 0 TDS?

Make sure to replace GFO regularly and you should change your light cycle to 8 hours.
CUC needs work. Only currently exists of 4 hermits. Added 4 turbos and my blue hermit cleared them out in a day. Got RO/DI unit with meter and all water is 0TDS. Other parameters such as No2 and 3 using Red Sea kit are untraceable and PH is 7.2ish.

I thought my lights might be contributing. Think I will lower their time as you suggest and also consider throwing some GFO in for a period of time to see results.

The GFO is doing my head in!!
 

Infidel

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CUC needs work. Only currently exists of 4 hermits. Added 4 turbos and my blue hermit cleared them out in a day. Got RO/DI unit with meter and all water is 0TDS. Other parameters such as No2 and 3 using Red Sea kit are untraceable and PH is 7.2ish.

I thought my lights might be contributing. Think I will lower their time as you suggest and also consider throwing some GFO in for a period of time to see results.

The GFO is doing my head in!!
You may want to look into getting some Trochus snails as well as a Tuxedo Urchin. I would also get at least 3x more hermits.
 
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PapaShrimp

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You may want to look into getting some Trochus snails as well as a Tuxedo Urchin. I would also get at least 3x more hermits.
Cheers for the suggestions mate. Are trochus snails likely to be more robust against my blue hermit serial killing crab?
 

Infidel

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Cheers for the suggestions mate. Are trochus snails likely to be more robust against my blue hermit serial killing crab?
Trochus snails are harder for hermits to GTA (Grand Theft Auto) due to their shape and are preferred mainly because they are excellent grazers. They can also right themselves if they fall over. Oh, and they also look good.

Banded Trochus Snail - Live Aquaria




Another way to keep your snails a bit safer is to make sure your hermits have some extra shells to move into so they don't need to kill the snails for theirs.

It's also a good idea to make sure the hermits have food if you don't see them chowing down on algae. They can eat pellets, frozen mysis/krill, etc.
 
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