Whats the difference between high-range nitrate or Low range Nitrates? Also, what do they affect on our tanks i.e. algae, chemistry?
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Just to clarify the question, are asking how 5 ppm versus 50 ppm nitrate affect an aquarium?Whats the difference between high-range nitrate or Low range Nitrates? Also, what do they affect on our tanks i.e. algae, chemistry?
Sorry I dont even know the difference between high range and low range. That was my question, what is the difference?Just to clarify the question, are asking how 5 ppm versus 50 ppm nitrate affect an aquarium?
i'm no expert, but if you are basing your question on the LR Nitrate and HR Nitrate hanna checker, they do not test 2 things, it's only that the low range one can detect nitrate from 0.1ppm to 5ppm and the high range can detect from 1ppm to 50ppm (number are fictional, is just to give the idea).Sorry I dont even know the difference between high range and low range. That was my question, what is the difference?
That makes things a lot more clear now! We want to test the LR so that it's more accurate?i'm no expert, but if you are basing your question on the LR Nitrate and HR Nitrate hanna checker, they do not test 2 things, it's only that the low range one can detect nitrate from 0.1ppm to 5ppm and the high range can detect from 1ppm to 50ppm (number are fictional, is just to give the idea).
I use redsea po4 and no3 also. I went and bought the Hanna po4 low range and love it. I thinking of getting the high range no3 myself. That is the one I would get.Mine was at 0ppm this morning but I still have GHA and 0ppm phosphates. So just trying to figure it all out.
im using the Redsea Phosphate and Nitrate test kits.
Same thing been going on here and I started dosing nitrates and phosphates to get levels detectable. It seems to be helping but is a slow process. I test with Hanna ultra low range phosphate and Hanna high range nitrate. The Hanna low range nitrate is a total PITA to use IMO the high range and ulr phosphate tester each just use a single packet of reagent. Both high and low rage N testers go to zero and I have tested as low as 0.3 nitrate on the high range so that good enough for meMine was at 0ppm this morning but I still have GHA and 0ppm phosphates. So just trying to figure it all out.
im using the Redsea Phosphate and Nitrate test kits.
I went down this road. Bought snails and a sea hare and did manual removal but untill I started dosing to get N and P at detectable levels the gha just thrived. Now that I have detectable levels of N and P the gha is starting to die off tho slowly. Romoving the rocks to clean is not an option for me.Manually remove as much GHA as possible and retest the next day. Your nutrients may be low but undetectable because the GHA consumes it.
So get both up and then it should start dying off. nice!!I went down this road. Bought snails and a sea hare and did manual removal but untill I started dosing to get N and P at detectable levels the gha just thrived. Now that I have detectable levels of N and P the gha is starting to die off tho slowly. Romoving the rocks to clean is not an option for me.
This is starting to work for me but I am far far from an expert and it may or may not work for you. It is info that I gathered reading and more reading. I'm sharing this not recommending it. I hate to make recommendations because I'm still learning myselfSo get both up and then it should start dying off. nice!!
Help me understand how dosing the stuff GHA consumes, helped bring it to a slow. It’s counter to what’s said. Perhaps the manual cleaning and the CUC just finally managed to wrangle it in for ya. Sea hares make fast work of things.I went down this road. Bought snails and a sea hare and did manual removal but untill I started dosing to get N and P at detectable levels the gha just thrived. Now that I have detectable levels of N and P the gha is starting to die off tho slowly. Romoving the rocks to clean is not an option for me.