How to plumb large UV?
- Thread starter Biff0rz
- Start date
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I have 2" pipe for my tank with reef flow pumps. They come with 1-1/2 outlets. Used a reducer to go from 1-1/2 to 2". You could do the same depending on what pump you pick....
ie 3/4
www.pvcfittingsonline.com
ie 3/4
Search results for: '2" x 3/4 reducer'
Schedule 80 Pipe, Schedule 80 PVC Fittings, Schedule 40 PVC Fittings, Schedule 80 CPVC Fittings
The flow rate max 4600, or 2800 gph (latter kills “bacteria and algae “) is what LifeGard lists for that uv fixture. How much flow do you want to pass through will impact pipe sizing along with the pump you employ to push the water? Max 30 PSI operating pressure also impacts the equation. Interesting physics problem. Curious on what answers folks will provide.
Biff0rz
Valuable Member
That's sort of my next question - what pump to get?? I assume less is ok, but how much less? Would a 2000 gph pump suffice?The flow rate max 4600, or 2800 gph (latter kills “bacteria and algae “) is what LifeGard lists for that uv fixture. How much flow do you want to pass through will impact pipe sizing along with the pump you employ to push the water? Max 30 PSI operating pressure also impacts the equation. Interesting physics problem. Curious on what answers folks will provide.
ReefHog
Well-Known Member
You need to figure out what you want the UV to accomplish. Then figure out your desired flow for you size tank. Here is some good reading on the subject.
UVC Sterilization | How Aquarium & Pond UV Sterilizers Work
Information how a TRUE Aquarium, Pond UV Sterilizer/clarifier work. Category A, B, & C Sterilizers. Affect on green water, disease prevention, & Redox
www.americanaquariumproducts.com
Biff0rz
Valuable Member
Thanks. Kill dinos is the goal. I'll read and search too.You need to figure out what you want the UV to accomplish. Then figure out your desired flow for you size tank. Here is some good reading on the subject.
UVC Sterilization | How Aquarium & Pond UV Sterilizers Work
Information how a TRUE Aquarium, Pond UV Sterilizer/clarifier work. Category A, B, & C Sterilizers. Affect on green water, disease prevention, & Redoxwww.americanaquariumproducts.com
Not sure about lifeguard but my Pentair came with adapters to downsize. Best to wait till it arrives before buying any Adaptive plumbing.
As for a pump, it depends. Are you going to feed the UV direct back into your tank? For instance in my system I ran two return pumps. One fed direct to the tank, the other fed through the UV and then to the tank. I had to keep from over pumping my drain lines. So keep that in mind.
You don’t have to run at full speed for the UV. It can run slower and will still do a good job.
As for a pump, it depends. Are you going to feed the UV direct back into your tank? For instance in my system I ran two return pumps. One fed direct to the tank, the other fed through the UV and then to the tank. I had to keep from over pumping my drain lines. So keep that in mind.
You don’t have to run at full speed for the UV. It can run slower and will still do a good job.
Biff0rz
Valuable Member
For right now I plan to mount it near the front of the display and help rid dinos. I'll figure out an in-line plan later. So yea, direct pull / feed to the tank. The mfg suggest max 2800 gph but no minimum.
ReefHog
Well-Known Member
My tank is 220 gallons and I run 600 gph through my Pro Max 90 for parasite sterilization. All my return water goes through the UV. I’ve bottomed out my p04 and n03 several times and never had an issue with dinos and my water stays crystal clear.
Biff0rz
Valuable Member
So I ended up plumbing it this way
What's the best way to prime this? I didn't add a vent for the air to escape so I think I have to lift the exit side out of the water in order to get it going, right? (and also prevent air locking)
What's the best way to prime this? I didn't add a vent for the air to escape so I think I have to lift the exit side out of the water in order to get it going, right? (and also prevent air locking)
Biff0rz
Valuable Member
Just so I can add some ghetto pics of my setup, have hard plumbing parts on the way btw. Just wanted to get this up and running but I can't really figure out how to prime it.
Attachments
Do you have any left over elbows and pipe? Cut a ~3" nipple attach it to an elbow. Put the other end of the nipple into the return with the elbow pointing up. Cut another piece of pipe long enough to raise the end a few inches above the top of the return pipe. Then grab a clean cup and keep filling it, from the tank, until your new pipe is full. Remove the pipe then turn on the pump.
Or you could add a second elbow on top of that and another piece of pipe or some flexible tubing then suck on it to start it draining from the intake. Either way make sure you have enough fresh salt water to replace the extra needed for the UV plumbing.
Hopefully makes sense.
Or you could add a second elbow on top of that and another piece of pipe or some flexible tubing then suck on it to start it draining from the intake. Either way make sure you have enough fresh salt water to replace the extra needed for the UV plumbing.
Hopefully makes sense.
AMG63Addison
Community Member
Do you have something holding the pipes were they go in/out of tank? Also, is that external pump noisy?
Biff0rz
Valuable Member
I ended up redoing it with hard pipe - came out so much better. I hung the uv underneath the tank inside the stand the ran all the pipes, they just hang over the tank. It's been running 9mo without issues. The pump is dead quiet but I did have issues getting it to seal - had to return it and get a new one.
AMG63Addison
Community Member
Do you have something holding the pipes were they go in/out of tank? Also, is that external pump noisy
Awesome, I am in the process of doing it the same way. I bought a sicce pump i was planning to set inside tank, didnt even think about using an external pump. Would much rather that than have a pump sitting in display.
Biff0rz
Valuable Member
That's exactly why I did it, but, it has its challenges. You have to prime the pipes in order to avoid air in the system. I added two rodi bungs to the U pipes with some rodi line. I then added valves to those lines. I am now able to pull air out of the pipes to prime it. You only need to prime it when you drain it completely (maintenance on the amalgam bulb)
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