ICK is BACK!!!!!!!!

mikeintoronto

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 26, 2019
Messages
154
Reaction score
306
Location
Toronto
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I mean starting with dry rock and "live" sand theres no risk for ich. Then QT coral and inverts and your fish.
Where could ich be introduced?
I think you might be making his point. He’s saying that doing all of those things requires effort that (I’d wager) most people aren’t willing to do. I have ich in my larger display and I do nothing about it (6 tangs). However I’m strict about my ich-free smaller display (5 tangs) but I actually don’t put anything new in there. But if your tank is newer or you’re a fish collector of sorts, or you like adding new coral, or you like to replace your CUC, well that’s a lot of work to do a super strict QT of everything.
My ich came from a PB tang I thought I QTed well (and I’ve been at this a while). It happens. As long as it’s not velvet I don’t worry about it.

In no way am I saying ich can’t be prevented or eradicated, but there are probably many tanks that have it and don’t know it.
 
OP
OP
C

Carl Cardarelli

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 8, 2019
Messages
279
Reaction score
80
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Thanks for all the advice I think I'm more confused now on how to tackle the outbreak in my DT!
 

pdxmonkeyboy

Sticks!! Give me the sticks!
View Badges
Joined
Mar 7, 2017
Messages
2,677
Reaction score
4,610
Location
Hockinson, WA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Carl.
There are several good threads by hotrocks about this. I believe there is even a sticky. If you dont have a ton of fish you can go fishless in your tank for 78? Days and all the ich should be gone. Then you can out your fish back in..

Getting rid of ich in your fish is pretty easy to do by treating with copper.

As stated above, ich is not the end of the world. But i would definately QT all fish for velvet, brook, etc. Those can wipe out an entire tank VERY quickly.

Cheers.
 

K95ranger

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 16, 2019
Messages
35
Reaction score
39
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Might want to try kick-ich and rally by ruby. I had success with it when in my DT back in the day and my coral and fish came out fine and no issues since. Just another option for you to think about.
 

Marco S

Always Learning
View Badges
Joined
Jun 3, 2015
Messages
1,081
Reaction score
1,324
Location
Tucson
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Unless you're keeping an Achilles or Powder Blue Tang, Ich is mostly manageable. What concerns me most is Velvet and Brook. Those two patogens alone are worth the hassle of QT IMO.
I have both an Achilles and Powder Blue, (as well as a Purple, Hippo and Whitetail Bristletooth) and have QT'd everything wet so far. I have been seriously thinking of changing tactics as it has taken me almost a year to fully stock my fish and will be probably another year to stock my cuc and who knows how long to stock all the coral I want and I am maintaining three display tanks and 4 QT tanks currently. It is a HUUUUUGE pain to do this and separate all equipment and maintain coral with no fish, (not to mention not being able to put them in my DT for 3 months) and sanitize tanks between batches and I am washing my hands 2 million times a day and I have lost more fish than have actually made it through QT as well as some very expensive coral. :(

Long story short, (probably too late for that though) are you saying that Ich is NOT manageable with an Achilles and Powder Blue Tang??? If so, why is that and do you have any links to evidence of this?
 

Sashaka

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 29, 2017
Messages
1,125
Reaction score
1,488
Location
New York
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I have both an Achilles and Powder Blue, (as well as a Purple, Hippo and Whitetail Bristletooth) and have QT'd everything wet so far. I have been seriously thinking of changing tactics as it has taken me almost a year to fully stock my fish and will be probably another year to stock my cuc and who knows how long to stock all the coral I want and I am maintaining three display tanks and 4 QT tanks currently. It is a HUUUUUGE pain to do this and separate all equipment and maintain coral with no fish, (not to mention not being able to put them in my DT for 3 months) and sanitize tanks between batches and I am washing my hands 2 million times a day and I have lost more fish than have actually made it through QT as well as some very expensive coral. :(

Long story short, (probably too late for that though) are you saying that Ich is NOT manageable with an Achilles and Powder Blue Tang??? If so, why is that and do you have any links to evidence of this?

Agree! It IS work to keep multiple tanks, but I choose this course of action over not treating because for me the cost of treating all the fish in my 180gal (some fish are quite large now) or fish in my other tanks is way more of a hassle and more expensive than treating one or two newly purchased fish in a small sick tank. Been there, done that. Never again if I can help it. It hurts too much, and I don't t just mean financially - though there is that too. Plus, I hate looking at a fallow DT. I'd much rather look at a few fish being treated in a sick tank and still enjoy a partially stocked DT. I suppose I'd feel differently if I lost a lot of fish during treatment, but it's very rare for me..even with sensitive fish species.

I've come to accept the extra daily/weekly maintenance as just part of my choice to eradicate rather than manage disease in my tank. For me, it's the only choice if I want to continue to find enjoyment in the hobby. I hope you find a process you can live with that keeps the 'love' of the hobby soaring in your heart. Happy reefing! :)
 

Humblefish

Dr. Fish
View Badges
Joined
Nov 9, 2014
Messages
22,424
Reaction score
34,848
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Long story short, (probably too late for that though) are you saying that Ich is NOT manageable with an Achilles and Powder Blue Tang??? If so, why is that and do you have any links to evidence of this?

Both of those tangs belong to the Acanthurus genus, which have thin mucous coats. (The mucous or slime coat is a fish's natural defence against parasites.) Acanthurus Tangs are also typically collected in crest zones and thus more accustomed to higher oxygen intake. (Parasites usually attack the gills first.) These two factors make it more difficult for an Acanthurus Tang to deal with parasites. I have seen it done... However, usually an oversized UV sterilizer or pool grade DE filter is keeping the concentration of free swimmers in the water low. But from my way of thinking, relying upon a tool to manage fish parasites is just a crutch. You are only an extended power loss or a pump failing away from disaster, so plan accordingly by having a generator, backup pump, etc.
 

pdxmonkeyboy

Sticks!! Give me the sticks!
View Badges
Joined
Mar 7, 2017
Messages
2,677
Reaction score
4,610
Location
Hockinson, WA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I went through this. Qtd all my fish, i think i got ich from.rocks or corals..who knows. Pulled ALL the fish out, medicated the fish with copper. It was a nightmare. Put the fish back in 78 days later...they had ich two weeks later.

I said... deal with it. After the initial ich break out i have not seen a cyst yet. I run a jebao UV unit and feed home made food with a variety of vitamins.

Sohal, achilies, desjardini, hippo, powder brown, scoppas, and kole tangs.
 

Reefing threads: Do you wear gear from reef brands?

  • I wear reef gear everywhere.

    Votes: 44 16.3%
  • I wear reef gear primarily at fish events and my LFS.

    Votes: 17 6.3%
  • I wear reef gear primarily for water changes and tank maintenance.

    Votes: 1 0.4%
  • I wear reef gear primarily to relax where I live.

    Votes: 33 12.2%
  • I don’t wear gear from reef brands.

    Votes: 156 57.8%
  • Other.

    Votes: 19 7.0%
Back
Top