Ideal phosphate for Nitrate around the 5ppm range?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Snoopdog
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Taking into account the photometer error, then 0.04-0.1 is ideal. because 0.02 can be 0
 
If you cannot detect phosphate, I would feed more or dose more since too low is more problematic than too much.

I see no downside to upping dosing until you detect phosphate.
 
I had a dinoflagellate problem that is now gone, then had a breakout with cyano, but have that now vacated to the sump only. Now I am getting a dusting of brown algae.
Green algae often looks brown under the bluer lights. If you turn up all whites, is it greenish?
If its a greenish dusting, that's what I like to see in my tank. Food for my snails, a sign of enough nutrients in the tank, and competition for the organisms we don't want to get out of control (dino's/cyano/chrysophyte).

I'm not sure if the green algae are competing by taking up the space the others would use, using up the nutrients the others would use, or just a sign that the microbiome is more in balance and other organisms are controlling the issue.
 
Green algae often looks brown under the bluer lights. If you turn up all whites, is it greenish?
If its a greenish dusting, that's what I like to see in my tank. Food for my snails, a sign of enough nutrients in the tank, and competition for the organisms we don't want to get out of control (dino's/cyano/chrysophyte).

I'm not sure if the green algae are competing by taking up the space the others would use, using up the nutrients the others would use, or just a sign that the microbiome is more in balance and other organisms are controlling the issue.

The real weird thing is the cyanobacteria is pretty prevalent in the sump and sump only. I am testing daily now and sure enough the numbers are the same. The nitrates were 5ppm and the phosphates are holding today around .03 I imagine things will resolve on their own in time but I find it strange how there is a contrast between the sump and main tank on what algae is growing.
 
The real weird thing is the cyanobacteria is pretty prevalent in the sump and sump only. I am testing daily now and sure enough the numbers are the same. The nitrates were 5ppm and the phosphates are holding today around .03 I imagine things will resolve on their own in time but I find it strange how there is a contrast between the sump and main tank on what algae is growing.
Your nutrients seem right on. Maybe it’s just lower flow in the sump? And maybe sump just needs time for other organisms to compete for the space. Is the rock/sand in the sump newer?
 
Your nutrients seem right on. Maybe it’s just lower flow in the sump? And maybe sump just needs time for other organisms to compete for the space. Is the rock/sand in the sump newer?

Well the rock in the sump is real live rock from Florida. Definitely lower flow in the sump. I guess I could add a pump in the sump to circulate water. I also notice the chamber where the water comes in to the sump has zero cyano on that live rock.
 
I am curious on something. My phosphates do keep dropping to zero. Should I keep dosing phosphates to keep them up? I am afraid I am actually feeding the cyano in my sump with dosing phosphates. I am feeding 3-4 times a day and quite a bit each time. I would think that would be enough phosphates and I should not be dosing phosphates from a bottle. There again I do not want another dinoflagellate outbreak.
 
I am curious on something. My phosphates do keep dropping to zero. Should I keep dosing phosphates to keep them up? I am afraid I am actually feeding the cyano in my sump with dosing phosphates. I am feeding 3-4 times a day and quite a bit each time. I would think that would be enough phosphates and I should not be dosing phosphates from a bottle. There again I do not want another dinoflagellate outbreak.

I'd keep dosing phosphate (or feed more) if I detected none.
 
I am curious on something. My phosphates do keep dropping to zero. Should I keep dosing phosphates to keep them up? I am afraid I am actually feeding the cyano in my sump with dosing phosphates. I am feeding 3-4 times a day and quite a bit each time. I would think that would be enough phosphates and I should not be dosing phosphates from a bottle. There again I do not want another dinoflagellate outbreak.

The cyano in your sump is actually already getting there supply of phosphates. I suspect it is leaching from the rock in your sump creating a micro environment for the cyano to thrive. Yet the rest of the tank is phosphate limited. Since there is cyano growing there must also be a lightsource for them. Is it possible to turn this of? Also keep dosing phosphates so it stays at a level between 0.02-0.05 ppm (if your nitrates are between 5-10 ppm) so you don't starve the competition in the rest of your tank.
 
The cyano in your sump is actually already getting there supply of phosphates. I suspect it is leaching from the rock in your sump creating a micro environment for the cyano to thrive. Yet the rest of the tank is phosphate limited. Since there is cyano growing there must also be a lightsource for them. Is it possible to turn this of? Also keep dosing phosphates so it stays at a level between 0.02-0.05 ppm (if your nitrates are between 5-10 ppm) so you don't starve the competition in the rest of your tank.


Well it would kill my chaeto.
 

WHICH PART OF YOUR SETUP IS HARDEST TO REACH OR REMOVE FOR ROUTINE MAINTENANCE?

  • Glass behind or beside the tank

    Votes: 10 23.8%
  • Powerheads or wavemakers

    Votes: 3 7.1%
  • Sump or rear filtration chambers

    Votes: 5 11.9%
  • Skimmer or other filtration equipment

    Votes: 4 9.5%
  • Overflow or plumbing

    Votes: 8 19.0%
  • Lights or lids

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Mine is pretty easy to access!

    Votes: 11 26.2%
  • Other—tell us what I missed

    Votes: 1 2.4%
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