Identify parts and function for this 150 G Oceanic tank (48x24x39)

rpkneumann

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I have a build thread for this tank (old faithful) but want to address this to a wider forum.
I'm rebuilding a setup for an old 2005 Oceanic (48x24x29) and are about to tackle plumbing soon.
The stand received its last coat and moving one to the next step.

The tank has a wide ugly center brace (one metal, one glas) and the glass resists cleaning efforts because its full of deep seated calcium deposits.
There is also a mystery brace inside on the bottom. its extremely thick glas, has about a 1/4 gap on the bottom so that water can flow back and forth.

- Who can explain the function of such a divider?
- Any cleaning tricks to make the top brace clear again? It cover quite a big area.

I want to install a shadow overflow on the back side and and take out the two gigantic megaflow overflow towers plus plugging the holes.

First I need to understand all the structural reasons on how this "tank" is build and what i can do to get it to 2024 standards. .

Any technical info about this tank is welcome.

IMG_3218.jpeg
IMG_3216.jpeg
 

KrisReef

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Top glass is a brace to keep the front and back glass from bowing when filled.
The brace on top is to hold the lids in place (2 pieces each side).

Bottom inside was probably an add on perhaps to keep sand on one side and bare bottom on the other? It's not very common ime.
 

KrisReef

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Starting to make sense. Lids is a good idea.
Pretty big braces for such a short tank.
The thick one on the top was/is fairly standard for fish tanks. It is important for keeping the tank from deforming from water pressure forces which also helps keep the seals from failing over time.

Newer "reef" tanks have been modified with "Euro-bracing" which is the removal of the center brace being replaced by the addition of thick bracing at the top 4 edges of the tank to allow unobstructed light penetration in the central portion of the display.

Folks with reef + fish will often add a mesh "lid" to keep the fishes from exploring out of the open tops and allow light penetration without the concern of condensation obstructing the energy flow in a Eurobraced tank or in regular tanks where they are keeping coral.
 

javajaws

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That extra brace on bottom I can almost guarantee didn't come from the manufacturer. I think you could cut it out and not worry about it being gone if you want it gone. For the life of me I can't think of why somebody would have added that there.
 

nereefpat

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Oceanic tanks were well built, and made to last. That thing would likely outlast a brand new rimless tank that are en vogue now.

Anyway...cutting the teeth off the overflow and adding that bottom piece of glass were for sure done by a previous owner. The teeth were probably cut so that you could push more flow through the return pump, or he/she got tired of having to clean the teeth, or to lower the water level in the tank (although that would be silly).

The glass on the bottom: The only thing I can come up with is if you wanted sand on one side and not on the other. Pretty strange.

For cleaning the glass brace, about the best you can do is soak it with citric acid and then scrub with a scraper.
 
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rpkneumann

rpkneumann

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Thank you all, very good.
The tank is in good condition. the silicon is bright and clear and doesn't show andy weak spots.

The only thing needing more work is the middle brace glass. Its pretty fogged up. I tried vinegar. didn't work. I cleaned the tank with a strong citric acid solution (it was stored in a chicken coop and you can imagine how it looked like) and that didn't budget it either.
I think I'll try a lime remover next.
I'm on the fence if I should take out the bottom brace. It does have a gap towards the bottom glas so that water can circulate. Since I'm going with a deeper sand bed the "mystery brace" on the bottom might just stay there and get covered.
I made the decision to take out the two overflow towers and install either a Modular Marine ( 1600 GPH) or Synergy Reef Overflow. 16". Since I'm drilling I might as well add two return holes
Any thoughts on those overflows? more important where do i put them since the back middle is pretty obstructed with the top glass braces. At the side ? including the return at the side so i can generate flwo the long way?
thanks for all the advice
Here is the sump recovered from the chicken coops and after cleaning. Its a Trigger System Crystal 36S. Also cleaned up good.
IMG_3137.jpeg
IMG_3167.jpeg
 

Dom

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That extra brace on bottom I can almost guarantee didn't come from the manufacturer. I think you could cut it out and not worry about it being gone if you want it gone. For the life of me I can't think of why somebody would have added that there.

I'm thinking that this tank may have had an egg crate divider. Bringing egg crate down to the top of that divider would prevent sand critters from going under?

Just a guess.
 
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rpkneumann

rpkneumann

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Focusing in bottom 3/4” thick divider.

Anymore suggestions what this might have been used for.
I’m planning to use a DSB (4“) but this thing is 7“ tall.

Can I take it out safely?

Can’t see that it helps structurally. It’s only glued on the ends. It stands about 1/4
The white streaks/drops are from my center brace cleaning attempts….


IMG_3527.jpeg
inch above base glass.
 

Dburr1014

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Focusing in bottom 3/4” thick divider.

Anymore suggestions what this might have been used for.
I’m planning to use a DSB (4“) but this thing is 7“ tall.

Can I take it out safely?

Can’t see that it helps structurally. It’s only glued on the ends. It stands about 1/4
The white streaks/drops are from my center brace cleaning attempts….


IMG_3527.jpeg
inch above base glass.
Piano wire bottom >> up.
Razor the rtv after.

Could have been a divider. Pull it out for full tank, slide it in(with that piece as a steady) for a divider.
 
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rpkneumann

rpkneumann

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Pianowire !! why didn't i think of that. Great idea. Should make removal much easier.
Why would one want to divide the tank?
 

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