Is this BJD on torch coral?

[crazybanana2]

Not sure what this whiteish cloudy puffy thing is on torch, it’s night time for the tank right now so its naturally closed. It wasn’t like this before. The darker photo is it during the day.

 

[KrisReef]

in your first image, the darker brown tentacles on the left center edge are the classic brown jelly color, but the overall presentation doesn’t look like BJD.

BJD looks like brown rotten yogurt or cottage cheese laying on top of the dying coral flesh.

The puffy inflated flesh is interesting, and possibly worrisome but not looking like brown dirty yogurt, at least not yet.

The problem with BJD is that when it happens, it quickly kills the head as it covers the dead body with brown sloughing flesh, often causing mortality in a day.

But this appears to be something else?

 

[crazybanana2]

in your first image, the darker brown tentacles on the left center edge are the classic brown jelly color, but the overall presentation doesn’t look like BJD.

BJD looks like brown rotten yogurt or cottage cheese laying on top of the dying coral flesh.

The puffy inflated flesh is interesting, and possibly worrisome but not looking like brown dirty yogurt, at least not yet.

The problem with BJD is that when it happens, it quickly kills the head as it covers the dead body with brown sloughing flesh, often causing mortality in a day.

But this appears to be something else?

I’m not sure, because its open in the day but I saw something similar on my other hammer coral then it went away. It might be a stress factor? I’m not too sure but I’ve been dosing phos a lot lately because I’ve been dealing with bottomed out phos

 

[KrisReef]

If it went away and the other coral is still alive then it is not classic BJD. When it attacks a coral the polyp is generally consumed and the only thing left behind is the skeleton where the polyp was .

 

[unchainedcoot]

For my two cents: I wouldn’t sweat it as far as the puffy flesh goes. I’ve had hammers do similar and did nothing
Sorry about the photo quality but lights are out.
Wait until you get into some real weird stuff like little transparent balls

 

[docscorals]

How long after feeding did you see this? I’ve seen it on my torch a couple times after broadcast feeding.

 

[crazybanana2]

How long after feeding did you see this? I’ve seen it on my torch a couple times after broadcast feeding.

I fed right when my blue lights went away, so probably 30 minutes after, very likely it can be from that because I remember my gold hammer did similar things after I gave it mysis shrimp

 

[crazybanana2]

How long after feeding did you see this? I’ve seen it on my torch a couple times after broadcast feeding.

Pretty much went away already, pretty sure it’s a feeding response or a moment stress response

 

[mcarroll]

Can you tell us the essentials about the tank this is in and how its maintained? Also we'd like to see all water test results you have.

 

[crazybanana2]

Can you tell us the essentials about the tank this is in and how its maintained? Also we'd like to see all water test results you have.

These are currently my parameters, very out of wack I am trying to raise my phosphates, I just dosed 0.15 ppm yesterday and it went back down to 0 in a day because I’m dealing with dinoflag as well

 

[docscorals]

Can you tell us the essentials about the tank this is in and how its maintained? Also we'd like to see all water test results you have.

I’d say your alkalinity is a little low too. I’d recommend at least 7-7.5, and calcium at least 400-420 if you have torches.

They generally like more nutrients in the water too. Try to keep phosphates at least 0.04-0.05.

Try to keep magnesium around 1400 as well. My experience with Euphyllia is that they like magnesium running a little higher (I keep mine at 1450).

 

[crazybanana2]

Can I just dose alkalinity and calcium or do I need to raise mag first?

 

[mcarroll]

These are currently my parameters, very out of wack I am trying to raise my phosphates, I just dosed 0.15 ppm yesterday and it went back down to 0 in a day because I’m dealing with dinoflag as well

It's fine to dose higher to avoid it coming back down to zero again.

Next time, just wait 30-60 minutes after dosing P and re-test. See how far down it has gone, and if needed dose again to your target level. 0.20 ppm is a fine target....or even higher if you think it's necessary....but I'd try 0.20 next. I'd prefer not to see it drop below 0.10 ppm until the tank normalizes.

Usually, the consumption levels out after that first set of doses.....keep us in the loop!

BTW, how are your copepods and cleanup crew? If you really have a toxic dino bloom they are the canary in the coal mine.

If they are all fine, then I'd worry less about dino's and just focus on balancing the tank.

But if pods have died off and your CUC is dead, dying or appear "drunk" then your corals are probably also being tweaked by toxins in the water. In this case, I'd suggest running 1/4 portion of activated carbon and changing it weekly until things are back to normal.

Can I just dose alkalinity and calcium or do I need to raise mag first?

How is your salinity? Could be that your ca, alk and mg numbers make sense for the salinity level of the tank.

 

[crazybanana2]

I’m not sure how my copepods are doing, but I’ve been dosing live phyto almost everyday. My CUC is fine as well, no deaths from the dinos. I also run red sea activated carbon 24/7. My salinity levels are at 1.024.

 

[mcarroll]

For the mineral levels I'd just do some water changes.

For the nutrient levels, add NO3 and PO4 to your new saltwater before it goes into the tank.....dose to your target levels for each. That way nutrient levels don't go down in the tank and you get the needed boost for the mineral parameters. An enhanced salt like Reef Crystals would be nice, but even "plain" salt like Instant Ocean will help.

 

[crazybanana2]

For the mineral levels I'd just do some water changes.

For the nutrient levels, add NO3 and PO4 to your new saltwater before it goes into the tank.....dose to your target levels for each. That way nutrient levels don't go down in the tank and you get the needed boost for the mineral parameters. An enhanced salt like Reef Crystals would be nice, but even "plain" salt like Instant Ocean will help.

For the mineral levels I'd just do some water changes.

For the nutrient levels, add NO3 and PO4 to your new saltwater before it goes into the tank.....dose to your target levels for each. That way nutrient levels don't go down in the tank and you get the needed boost for the mineral parameters. An enhanced salt like Reef Crystals would be nice, but even "plain" salt like Instant Ocean will help.

Thats a really good idea to dose the water change water. Right now Im usint instant ocean