Is this normal for a fairy wrasse?

[Mr.Asbury]

My Rosy Scale Fairy Wrasse has been in QT for about a month now with 2 other wrasse. All 3 have been eating well, and are actively moving around my tank. I was planning on adding them to the main tank next week if nothing notable showed up, and I noticed this for the first time today on the side of my rosy scale.

Also, on another note - when looking to see what this could be, I saw a few things saying that the wrasee's thick mucous coat sometimes allows them to hide symptoms of diseases or parasites they may be carrying, and they could not show signs until other fish in the DT are infected. Are there any special protocols you guys take to make sure this isn't the case?

 

[Kal93]

Not sure... I noticed something similar on my resplendant anthias today, after ich. Following for more information. I'll probably dose metro/kanaplex just as a precaution.

What is your QT protocol? Is it only observation, or do you medicate?

 

[Mr.Asbury]

Not sure... I noticed something similar on my resplendant anthias today, after ich. Following for more information. I'll probably dose metro/kanaplex just as a precaution.

What is your QT protocol? Is it only observation, or do you medicate?

I just observe until I notice a problem that requires medication. I did a safety stop dip on the way into the QT tank, but other than that it's just been watch and wait.

 

[Kal93]

I just observe until I notice a problem that requires medication. I did a safety stop dip on the way into the QT tank, but other than that it's just been watch and wait.

I thought that mine could be bacterial, due to the white coloration/growth, but I think that you would have seen symptoms sooner... Is your fish otherwise healthy (good appetite, normal activity, etc.)?

 

[Mr.Asbury]

I thought that mine could be bacterial, due to the white coloration/growth, but I think that you would have seen symptoms sooner... Is your fish otherwise healthy (good appetite, normal activity, etc.)?

He eats like a pig, and is very active throughout the day. He also loves pictures - any time I try to get a picture of the other 2 wrasse in the tank with him, he always darts into the shot as well.

 

[moz71]

Not sure but it maybe flukes. Is it raised? hard to tell from picture

 

[Mr.Asbury]

When I see it from an angle, it looks a little raised.

If I do a FW dip, should I dip all 3 to be safe?

 

[DarkSky]

Might be physical damage from a spook that made him crash into something, could be bacterial? Hard to tell from the photos. Keep an eye on it and see if it progresses. Might not hurt to prophetically treat with antibiotics.

 

[DarkSky]

Not sure but it maybe flukes. Is it raised? hard to tell from picture

Now that you said flukes, it does sort of look like flukes. API General Cure after a FW dip.

 

[DarkSky]

When I see it from an angle, it looks a little raised.

If I do a FW dip, should I dip all 3 to be safe?

Yes, do all three. Then consider treating the water with API General Cure to nuke any in the tank.

 

[moz71]

I would, there are some nice posts on here to how to properly do it. I never want to put anything in my DT that is suspect. been burned by wishful thinking before. Although I do not like to stress any fish unnecessarily but you may have a good reason herel

 

[moz71]

#ngoodermuth seems to be the expert on wrasses and flukes. Hope she can help

 

[moz71]

sorry @ngoodermuth best for advice

 

[ngoodermuth]

I think it looks like physical damage... either from aggression from a tankmate or injury.

That said, I proactively treat all of my wrasses (and all of my fish for that matter) for parasites. Wrasses in particular can carry parasites un-noticed as you’ve already mentioned.

 

[ngoodermuth]

My prophylactic treatment plan includes therapeutic copper + metroplex for 14 days. Also, feed General cure bound to food with focus during that time.

Afterwards, the fish is transferred to a second tank (without lowering the copper level prior to transfer) and treated with two doses of PraziPro, 5-7 days apart. And then observed for another 2 weeks or so, med-free.

This schedule accounts for ich, velvet, brook, uronema, flukes, and intestinal worms and internal flagellates.

I also give my fish a 90-minute bath in ruby reef rally (antiseptic/anti-parasitic) as a “last-stop” precaution, in between QT and DT.

I’ve had to run this tank fallow twice, I no longer take risks when it comes to QT [emoji6]