Is this okay for a newbie setup

[yoshiReefer]

This is my first time w a tank of any kind, just started my cycle over the weekend with a starter live rock & sand. Should my reefmat be turned off for a bit before I’m ready for livestock? My nero5 had created a bottom spot up against the overflow so I moved it to just in front of the light more middle centered, will that be fine for beginner corals and fish or should it be moved to be in line just in front of the overflow? I also want to get a slab of acrylic cut to be a lid (I have a cat and I’m lazy and don’t want to deal with too much evaporation), is there a specific thickness or issues I’ll come across with a piece of acrylic for a lid? The water level is just below the top of the wall into the return pump idk if it’s supposed to flow over or through the sponge my temp is at 77°-78°(give or take I don’t have a external controller except the one that’s from the heater) should I be experiencing a noticeable amount of evaporation from just temps? I haven’t been running my light at all. I had just realized how much my overflow was filled so I did some micro adjustments on the main drain valve and got it to go down a little bit. The bottom pic is my water test from a LFS the day after I started the cycle.

It’s a Red Sea 350g1 I’ve had for about 4 years and has been dry until this weekend.

 

[yoshiReefer]

Just realized photos never posted

 

[EnterName]

Should my reefmat be turned off for a bit before I’m ready for livestock?

A new tank usually has low nutrient levels and no detritus for the reefmat to remove anyway. There is no point in turning it on right now. However, you have no skimmer which is arguably much more important for proper gas exchange. When the first bacteria blooms begin the oxygen demand will be very high and not having a skimmer might cause oxygen levels to drop significantly.

My nero5 had created a bottom spot up against the overflow so I moved it to just in front of the light more middle centered, will that be fine for beginner corals and fish or should it be moved to be in line just in front of the overflow?

Do you only have one powerhead? It might not be possible to bring sufficient water movement everywhere with just one.

I also want to get a slab of acrylic cut to be a lid (I have a cat and I’m lazy and don’t want to deal with too much evaporation), is there a specific thickness or issues I’ll come across with a piece of acrylic for a lid?

Usually reef tanks don't have lids, especially if you don't have a skimmer to compensate the lack of gas exchange a lid will cause. You could get a net, but this might not hold your cat if it decides to jump on the tank. Lids are possible, but then I would really encourage you to find a way to get some oxygen into your tank. Regarding the thickness it will depend on how fat your cat is
I can't tell you if acrylic is the right material though.

The water level is just below the top of the wall into the return pump idk if it’s supposed to flow over or through the sponge?

The sponge is part of the "bubble trap" that avoids bubbles from entering the return pump. The sponge prevents larger bits (e.g. macro algae) to enter the return pump. The water is supposed to flow through the sponge.

my temp is at 77°-78°(give or take I don’t have a external controller except the one that’s from the heater) should I be experiencing a noticeable amount of evaporation from just temps?

You will probably have to add some water daily or at least every second day. I recommend getting some auto top-off (ATO) system. This will keep salinity stable and prevent the return pump from running dry.
I also highly recommend using a controller for the heater. Heaters will break sooner or later and sometimes they get "stuck on", which means they will keep heating even though their target temperature is reached. With a controller you have an additional safety net that will simply turn off the power so the heater can not fry your fish and corals.

I haven’t been running my light at all.

No need to run the lights for the nitrogen cycle.

It’s a Red Sea 350g1 I’ve had for about 4 years and has been dry until this weekend.

Just a heads up. Take some time to search for "RedSea Reefer failures". Their tanks have been prone to silicone seam failures. I had a 625 XXL g1 myself and am so happy that I got rid of it after seeing the seams showing signs of weaknesses. Not every tank will fail, but at least you should be warned.

The alkalinity of "1.5" seems off... That should not be possible with your salinity.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

The alkalinity looks off. I agree a large tank like that needs another powerhead. I would say it needs a lot more rock too, that is not enough rock for fish to be happy IMO. I agree an ATO is vital in this hobby.

What kind of light is that? Are you going to want to keep corals eventually, or will it be just a fish only tank?

 

[TylerHaworth]

Things I see that you need to have to be successful, before even thinking about livestock:

-Accurate and properly administered test kits, API will not do, I'm pretty sure that 1.5 Alk is not even possible
-Skimmer for gas exchange and nutrient management
-ATO for stability and automation
-At least double the rock, 1lb per gallon of display tank volume is a loose rule of thumb
-Mesh lid, keeps fish in and cats out without stifling gas exchange
-Another powerhead for sufficient flow and minimal dead spots

Things you need to figure out before you start stocking, this will further dictate equipment needs:

-What are your fish goals
-What are your coral goals

 

[yoshiReefer]

A new tank usually has low nutrient levels and no detritus for the reefmat to remove anyway. There is no point in turning it on right now. However, you have no skimmer which is arguably much more important for proper gas exchange. When the first bacteria blooms begin the oxygen demand will be very high and not having a skimmer might cause oxygen levels to drop significantly.


Do you only have one powerhead? It might not be possible to bring sufficient water movement everywhere with just one.


Usually reef tanks don't have lids, especially if you don't have a skimmer to compensate the lack of gas exchange a lid will cause. You could get a net, but this might not hold your cat if it decides to jump on the tank. Lids are possible, but then I would really encourage you to find a way to get some oxygen into your tank. Regarding the thickness it will depend on how fat your cat is
I can't tell you if acrylic is the right material though.


The sponge is part of the "bubble trap" that avoids bubbles from entering the return pump. The sponge prevents larger bits (e.g. macro algae) to enter the return pump. The water is supposed to flow through the sponge.


You will probably have to add some water daily or at least every second day. I recommend getting some auto top-off (ATO) system. This will keep salinity stable and prevent the return pump from running dry.
I also highly recommend using a controller for the heater. Heaters will break sooner or later and sometimes they get "stuck on", which means they will keep heating even though their target temperature is reached. With a controller you have an additional safety net that will simply turn off the power so the heater can not fry your fish and corals.


No need to run the lights for the nitrogen cycle.


Just a heads up. Take some time to search for "RedSea Reefer failures". Their tanks have been prone to silicone seam failures. I had a 625 XXL g1 myself and am so happy that I got rid of it after seeing the seams showing signs of weaknesses. Not every tank will fail, but at least you should be warned.

The alkalinity of "1.5" seems off... That should not be possible with your salinity.

I only have the 1 power head at the moment, my next purchase is more than likely going to be a skimmer. I didnt think I'd have to add water that often but makes sense now. I know I'm def looking for a controller for the heat, I want an apex system(I'm lazy) but they are just too much for right now. I am aware of the red sea flaws it was local and a good price at the time so just went with it.

 

[yoshiReefer]

The alkalinity looks off. I agree a large tank like that needs another powerhead. I would say it needs a lot more rock too, that is not enough rock for fish to be happy IMO. I agree an ATO is vital in this hobby.

What kind of light is that? Are you going to want to keep corals eventually, or will it be just a fish only tank?

I wasn't trying to spend too much I need more rock for sure, even though my first fish are going to be clowns and anything useful that I can get early on. The light is a Ai Blade 48", I plan on zoas and duncans for first corals only fish I'm 100% on is a yellow tang(2 if they will play nice and I have the tank space for it), only other fish would be goby and fish that can help keep the tank clean.

 

[Reef Jedi]

Hate to say it and be that guy but this tank is not big enough for a tang let alone two. If you want a lid that’ll stop a cat check out top lids. They make custom lids and are really nice. I agree with all above. You’ll want an ATO asap and check all over for a used apex. No need to buy new if you can. Salifert and Red Sea make good reliable test kits. I recommend hanna checkers for convenience sake.

 

[Gumbies R Us]

i agree that I would not do a yellow tang in a tank that size. You could maybe do a smaller tang species (tomini bristletooth tang).

As others have stated I would get more rock in there. More rock means more places for coral to grow and more hiding soots for your fish.

Ato imo is an essential purchase unless you want to manually top off water every single day. I could not imagine my tank without one

 

[BryanM]

The yellows really need a 6 footer to have enough room to thrive long term, and you definitely need a lot more rock.

I am surprised you knew of the flaws and still went with the RS tank. Seem failures, loss of reef life, and likely floor damage were all reasons I got rid of my tank before it failed.

Good luck.