Leaking!

[Nick C]

I need help. I have had my tank running with salt water for about a week now, Wednesday night I noticed some bubbles in it and panicked.

It was leaking from the return tube where it was going from 3/4 to the 1 1/4 union. I panicked. Sealed it (tried) with a butt ton of silicone. Started the flow again yesterday morning and still leaking. So I replaced it with PVC ( which I should have done from the start. I bought the system used and my wife wasn't happy about me spending more money)

But now it's leaking in the slip in the same spot. (Where it's threaded) again, I tried to seal it up and left it over night. This morning it's still leaking. I have heard salt creep might stop it? How long does it take? I'm at the point of just cuttingit all out again and starting over... I should have used unions, it just slipped my mind in planning.

 

[cracker]

Hello Nick So it's the plumbing & not the tank .T hat's good. it most likely needs to be tore out & replaced.

 

[flooddc]

Is the adapter to the union threaded or glued?. If threaded, then remove and put back together. Don't use teflon tape on PVC thread (Teflon tape is for copper or brass). If glued, then replace the whole union.

 

[SeaJay]

I personally would replace every threaded joint with slip and glue them all. Glue in unions and valves as needed for maintenance. These can always be added after its plumbed and you figure out where they need to be. I would only use threaded pvc to transition to another material.

I even bought abs to pvc glue for peace of mind on my bulkheads. If I have a leak, it won’t be from my plumbing joints. There’s plenty to worry about in this hobby without having to add that to the list.

 

[Reefinmike]

That’s some funky plumbing! First thing that stands out is you need to get all those electronics away from the water asap! That is a fire hazard. If you cant get them far from the water and plumbing, at least hang a plastic barrier so water couldn’t inadvertently spray from that soft return line that isn’t firmly secured with a hose clamp.

Next you need to secure your drain line to the bulkhead. It looks like it’s just slipped over pvc? That is bound to leak or create salt creep over time. Remove the dip in the line. That will just cause your overflow to burp and gurgle. While you’re at it, look into using both bulkheads for a silent herbie style drain and have your return line going over the top edge of your tank.

If you dont use a herbie style overflow, i’d just scrap the contraption you are using on your return bulkhead. They make barbed end bulkheads, run some 3/4” silicon tubing from the bulkhead to your return and USE HOSE CLAMPS on both ends. You can buy plastic ones to use on the pump under water but i prefer to secure the metal ones on the barbed fitting, slather it in silicon and let it dry for a day to rust proof it.

Sorry if my posting sounds too critical, this just screams fire hazard.

 

[Nick C]

Is the adapter to the union threaded or glued?. If threaded, then remove and put back together. Don't use teflon tape on PVC thread (Teflon tape is for copper or brass). If glued, then replace the whole union.

Neither, the first picture is old, the new picture is the PVC. It's leaking where the top most thread is threaded into that female thing, I can't think of the name, but then that is connected directly to the bulkhead.

 

[Nick C]

Is the adapter to the union threaded or glued?. If threaded, then remove and put back together. Don't use teflon tape on PVC thread (Teflon tape is for copper or brass). If glued, then replace the whole union.

The part that is leaking isn't on the Union. It's on the Return pump section at the top, It's just threaded into a slip, the slip is then threaded into the bulkhead.

 

[Reefinmike]

Sorry, I didn’t see your second replumb picture. What is the ball valve on the drain for? Please don’t attempt to “dial in” a drain to make it quieter without a minimum of one backup emergency drain. And the barbed fittings you have on there just reduce the drains diameter and ability to drain. If you keep it like that, keep the ball valve open all the way and put some clamps on that soft plumbing!!!

 

[Nick C]

That’s some funky plumbing! First thing that stands out is you need to get all those electronics away from the water asap! That is a fire hazard. If you cant get them far from the water and plumbing, at least hang a plastic barrier so water couldn’t inadvertently spray from that soft return line that isn’t firmly secured with a hose clamp.

Next you need to secure your drain line to the bulkhead. It looks like it’s just slipped over pvc? That is bound to leak or create salt creep over time. Remove the dip in the line. That will just cause your overflow to burp and gurgle. While you’re at it, look into using both bulkheads for a silent herbie style drain and have your return line going over the top edge of your tank.

If you dont use a herbie style overflow, i’d just scrap the contraption you are using on your return bulkhead. They make barbed end bulkheads, run some 3/4” silicon tubing from the bulkhead to your return and USE HOSE CLAMPS on both ends. You can buy plastic ones to use on the pump under water but i prefer to secure the metal ones on the barbed fitting, slather it in silicon and let it dry for a day to rust proof it.

Sorry if my posting sounds too critical, this just screams fire hazard.

No worries, Just to clear some things up though, the hose is the overflow, not the return. And i was planning on clamping it, i just hadn't in case i needed to make adjustments to it. The electrical is close, and i'll zip tie it up, but i haven't yet because i still don't have everything hooked up yet.

This might clear it up a little. The circle is where it is leaking, and it is threaded. Nothing on the overflow drain is leaking. But yes i will clamp that hose.

Their is a union from my pump to the return line.

Next you need to secure your drain line to the bulkhead. It looks like it’s just slipped over pvc? That is bound to leak or create salt creep over time. Remove the dip in the line. That will just cause your overflow to burp and gurgle. While you’re at it, look into using both bulkheads for a silent herbie style drain and have your return line going over the top edge of your tank.

What do you mean by that^^?

 

[Nick C]

Sorry, I didn’t see your second replumb picture. What is the ball valve on the drain for? Please don’t attempt to “dial in” a drain to make it quieter without a minimum of one backup emergency drain. And the barbed fittings you have on there just reduce the drains diameter and ability to drain. If you keep it like that, keep the ball valve open all the way and put some clamps on that soft plumbing!!!

I have the ball there just in case i needed to shut it off for some reason, I plan on keeping it 100% open 99.9999% of the time. I figured it couldn't hurt. and the only reason i have those pins there is because i can't get a hose to 90 without kinking =/ So it 90's down into the drain directly. there isn't any reduction after it leaves the 1 1/4 bulkhead. it's 1 inch all the way to the water dumping into the sump.

 

[flooddc]

Ah! I see.
Seem like you are making it more complicated than it should be (too many threaded connections). If it was me, I'd take out the threaded adapters and put the return pipe straight into the Inner slip of the bulkhead.

 

[Reefinmike]

Sorry for the confusion, my first posting was in regards to your first image. The second didnt load initially. The corrugated hose slipped over the drain was what i was referring to.

On your current setup- I would remove the barbed fittings and soft plumbing on the drain. They may be “ 1” barb adapters” but they have the inner diameter of a 3/4” pipe. Your drain can only carry as much water as the smallest constriction. You are cutting your drain capacity in half by going from 1” pipe to the hose barb adapters.

 

[Nick C]

How else would I get it to 90?

 

[Erica-Renee]

You need to run to the hardware store and get this ..
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RectorSeal-1-75-oz-5-Pipe-Thread-Sealant-25790/100144191

and you will NOT have another thread leak.. They also make it in a white tube specifically for pvc but I always use the gas line stuff and no ill effects .No waiting over night required. This stuff never sets up to be hard always flexible. It also lubricates the threads so you can screw them in further if need be .. IT JUST WORKS.. I Would not pull my Van into a Customers Driveway for a plumbing issue without it .

 

[Nick C]

Ah! I see.
Seem like you are making it more complicated than it should be (too many threaded connections). If it was me, I'd take out the threaded adapters and put the return pipe straight into the Inner slip of the bulkhead.

Yeah that's my next step

How else would I get it to 90?

 

[Erica-Renee]

Sorry for the confusion, my first posting was in regards to your first image. The second didnt load initially. The corrugated hose slipped over the drain was what i was referring to.

On your current setup- I would remove the barbed fittings and soft plumbing on the drain. They may be “ 1” barb adapters” but they have the inner diameter of a 3/4” pipe. Your drain can only carry as much water as the smallest constriction. You are cutting your drain capacity in half by going from 1” pipe to the hose barb adapters.

This is true I would cut that threaded elbow there out and run that hard plumbing .

 

[Reefinmike]

How else would I get it to 90?

With a pvc 90... i threw together some plumbing i had to illustrate. If the bulkhead it connects to on the sump is threaded, you can buy a slip x threaded 90 street elbow. Since all the connections will be glued you only have one shot to line everything up. Dry fit everything and mark all connections with a sharpie as i illustrate in the second picture. This will help you line everything up perfectly. Unscrew your union and glue everything together.

 

[Reefinmike]

Notice the difference between schedule 20, 40 and hose barb. When plumbing it is best to do it right from the start. I always use schedule 20 pipe for the drain and minimize the number of fittings to maximize the flow potential. Not because i need a lot if flow to my sump rather redundancy to prevent flooding. Unions are handy but not necessary for short runs of plumbing. You can make the standpipe in your overflow removable and periodically run a pipe cleaner down the drain. If you must, you can always cut the pipe and glue in a coupler. A 1” pipe union restricts the flow to that of a 3/4” pipe or about half. I couldn’t ever imagine a scenario where i would need a ball valve to shut off my tank’s drain. Lastly, make use of 45’s where you can if it allows you to remove a 90 from the run. It is true that making a 90 degree “softer” by using two 45’s will not reduce the restriction however if you could use two 45’s to go from your bulkhead to the sump you effectively eliminate a 90 degree turn.


Before you make any more changes to your plumbing, I would seriously consider using both bulkheads for a herbie style drain setup. The only thing i hear from my 90 is the kessils fans.

 

[Nick C]

Yo

Notice the difference between schedule 20, 40 and hose barb. When plumbing it is best to do it right from the start. I always use schedule 20 pipe for the drain and minimize the number of fittings to maximize the flow potential. Not because i need a lot if flow to my sump rather redundancy to prevent flooding. Unions are handy but not necessary for short runs of plumbing. You can make the standpipe in your overflow removable and periodically run a pipe cleaner down the drain. If you must, you can always cut the pipe and glue in a coupler. A 1” pipe union restricts the flow to that of a 3/4” pipe or about half. I couldn’t ever imagine a scenario where i would need a ball valve to shut off my tank’s drain. Lastly, make use of 45’s where you can if it allows you to remove a 90 from the run. It is true that making a 90 degree “softer” by using two 45’s will not reduce the restriction however if you could use two 45’s to go from your bulkhead to the sump you effectively eliminate a 90 degree turn.


Before you make any more changes to your plumbing, I would seriously consider using both bulkheads for a herbie style drain setup. The only thing i hear from my 90 is the kessils fans.

Then you just run your return over the back and in?

 

[Nick C]

This is true I would cut that threaded elbow there out and run that hard plumbing .

With a pvc 90... i threw together some plumbing i had to illustrate. If the bulkhead it connects to on the sump is threaded, you can buy a slip x threaded 90 street elbow. Since all the connections will be glued you only have one shot to line everything up. Dry fit everything and mark all connections with a sharpie as i illustrate in the second picture. This will help you line everything up perfectly. Unscrew your union and glue everything together.

The bulkhead on the sump is not threaded. That ugly flexible tube in the first pic is the line that came with the tank. it's just a slip, and glue into the bulkhead on the sump doesn't seem like the best idea to me. I've tried to pull the bulkhead out, not with too much force, just to see (I considered putting a heater in there?) And i couldn't get it out without breaking it.