LED or T5?

[A. grandis]

LEDs ... I can’t think of anything t5’s beat them at.

Then you have no experiences with T5s.

 

[A. grandis]

Fixture 13 inches wide tank 12.75 inches wide 1/4 inch over is hardly the 4 plus inch (2bulbs) over you claim.

Get the 4 bulb.
I normally remove the top plastic frame and make the Euro style bracing to accommodate more bulbs. No center piece.

 

[rc1626]

Research does not have to mean published documentation. If that's how it is being perceived then I apologize. Research could be a number of things i.e. seeing live tanks, pictures, doing what the OP is doing right now with this thread. To the OP, you're doing the right thing by starting here. Just be critical and careful of any info you receive. Again what's going to help you reach your goals and be enjoyable to look at while keeping budget in mind. Anyway.....a little off topic.
Good luck.

 

[A. grandis]

I agree with you in that sense, rc1626. That is the way to go and what I believe should be done. Facts through results are the most important.

 

[BurgerFish]

New T5 tubes every 12 months is new light every year. The fixture can last 15+ years...

LED in 5 years will degrade (par and spectrum). If it will survive after 1y warranty ends...

So, T5 is better choice - no distracting LED shimmer (in ocean shimmer is different, not so distracting), even coverage, much cheaper, grow corals, high PAR...

But T5, needs blue LED supplement for color pop.

 

[A. grandis]

Well is issue with T5s is look at the price of the 4 ft tubes you want...then multply by 6 for how many you have and then pay that every 6 months forever.

Bpb did very well answering you on that one.
I change T5s every 12 months without any problems. I believe all the people here would have the money to do so.
If you want to "save" in any way having those expensive corals in your system you are fooling yourself. The more you offer for their health the better is the product for your pleasure. Doesn't make any sense to be in the hobby if you don't want to offer the best for the organisms you keep. You can maintain them as you wish. I'm publishing the best way I believe to keep them at their best in terms of light disregarding monetary prices. Again... what Bpb said is also true.

 

[A. grandis]

New T5 tubes every 12 months is new light every year. The fixture can last 15+ years...

LED in 5 years will degrade (par and spectrum). If it will survive after 1y warranty ends...

So, T5 is better choice - no distracting LED shimmer (in ocean shimmer is different, not so distracting), even coverage, much cheaper, grow corals, high PAR...

But T5, needs blue LED supplement for color pop.

That "color pop" option will mask a bit real colors though. But yes, many people like that. Nothing wrong with additional for "pop". Everyone is different.
I think I already wrote too much here... ;Wideyed

 

[Aardvark1134]

Short answer cheapest method for inital outlay is t5s. They are however in need of blub replacements and make your corals look flat with 0 shimmer. There is nothing wrong with that if you like that look. Afterall I had floresent tubes above my tank back in the late 80s it worked fine. With that said I personally would never make a tank today without at least half LEDs

 

[Dana Riddle]

Here's a study I did back in the late 90's. This looked at PAR and spectral depreciation over the course of about 3 months. Four VHO T12 lamps (URIs, 2-Actinic Whites and 2-Actinics) powered by an IceCap electronic ballast. PPFD measured with a Li-Cor quantum meter with a cosine-corrected sensor calibrated for 'air' measurements. PPFD (PAR) loss was 18% in 3 months. Spectral quality (measured by the Li-Cor and spectral cutoff filters from Edmund Scientific):
Blue loss: 21%
Green loss: 21%
Red loss: 6%
These are rather crude, but I did not have a spectrometer at the time.
For the types of corals you want to keep, a PPFD (PAR) value of 100 at the bottom of the tank is usually OK.
Personally, I prefer LEDs but the ultimate decision is yours.

 

[TerraFerma]

If you have a canopy or canopy type thing - I think you get could away with a 2 bulb T5 retrofit for what you want to keep. And it would keep that stuff quite fine. And you would have even light throughout virtually the entire tank.

 

[Dana Riddle]

Here' a look at three T5 lamps I did years ago:

Product Review: T5 Fluorescent Lamps: UV Lighting’s ‘Super Actinic,’ ‘Actinic White,’ and ‘Aquasun’ High Output T5 Lamps

This month we'll begin an examination of T5 fluorescent lamps in general and then scrutinize several lamps manufactured by UV Lighting Company.

www.advancedaquarist.com

 

[A. grandis]

Here's a study I did back in the late 90's. This looked at PAR and spectral depreciation over the course of about 3 months. Four VHO T12 lamps (URIs, 2-Actinic Whites and 2-Actinics) powered by an IceCap electronic ballast. PPFD measured with a Li-Cor quantum meter with a cosine-corrected sensor calibrated for 'air' measurements. PPFD (PAR) loss was 18% in 3 months. Spectral quality (measured by the Li-Cor and spectral cutoff filters from Edmund Scientific):
Blue loss: 21%
Green loss: 21%
Red loss: 6%
These are rather crude, but I did not have a spectrometer at the time.
For the types of corals you want to keep, a PPFD (PAR) value is usually OK.
Personally, I prefer LEDs but the ultimate decision is yours.

Hi Dana, he will probably get T5s, not VHOs. Do you know of any spectrum depreciation data of T5s we use for aquariums? I would think the process is quite slower for T5s. We know they will loose their initial spectrum and one can see it after 9-10 months or so. That is the main reason why I change them every 12 months here. We also heard from BRS on this and they recommend changing them every 18 months "without problems".
Why do you prefer LEDs instead? The way it looks? Just wondering. Thanks.

 

[A. grandis]

Here' a look at three T5 lamps I did years ago:

Product Review: T5 Fluorescent Lamps: UV Lighting’s ‘Super Actinic,’ ‘Actinic White,’ and ‘Aquasun’ High Output T5 Lamps

This month we'll begin an examination of T5 fluorescent lamps in general and then scrutinize several lamps manufactured by UV Lighting Company.

www.advancedaquarist.com

Thanks!

 

[Dana Riddle]

Hi Dana, he will probably get T5s, not VHOs. Do you know of any spectrum depreciation data of T5s we use for aquariums? I would think the process is quite slower for T5s. We know they will loose their initial spectrum and one can see it after 9-10 months or so. That is the main reason why I change them every 12 months here. We also heard from BRS on this and they recommend changing them every 18 months "without problems".
Why do you prefer LEDs instead? The way it looks? Just wondering. Thanks.

I need to do some math on the depreciation rates. I prefer *some* LEDs over fluorescents for the following reasons:
Programmable time-course intensity
Programmable time-course spectral qualities
Programmable moonlight intensity
Better spectral qualities of diodes versus phosphors used in fluorescent lamps
Expected life: Years, not months. Caveat: If you place a LED fixture in a poorly ventilated hood and don't do maintenance on keeping the fans clean, you can expect poor life. Power supply failure is an issue as well.

 

[24/7ReeFTime]

I need to do some math on the depreciation rates. I prefer *some* LEDs over fluorescents for the following reasons:
Programmable time-course intensity
Programmable time-course spectral qualities
Programmable moonlight intensity
Better spectral qualities of diodes versus phosphors used in fluorescent lamps
Expected life: Years, not months. Caveat: If you place a LED fixture in a poorly ventilated hood and don't do maintenance on keeping the fans clean, you can expect poor life. Power supply failure is an issue as well.

Just a question for the expert. Do you light moonlights? Why or why not?

 

[Dana Riddle]

Just a question for the expert. Do you light moonlights? Why or why not?

I do use the moonlight option on my LED lights for these reasons:
I can program it for intensity and photoperiod.
The intensity option allows me to mimic moonlight intensity seen at shallow depths (<1 microMol/m2/sec.)
It is a natural thing on real reefs.
Moonlight is actually a whitish-light, not blue. But I can live with that.

 

[Acrofiend]

I’d go Kessil for the natural shimmer. If you start getting into acropora I’d throw in the T5’s to supplement.

 

[A. grandis]

I need to do some math on the depreciation rates. I prefer *some* LEDs over fluorescents for the following reasons:
Programmable time-course intensity
Programmable time-course spectral qualities
Programmable moonlight intensity
Better spectral qualities of diodes versus phosphors used in fluorescent lamps
Expected life: Years, not months. Caveat: If you place a LED fixture in a poorly ventilated hood and don't do maintenance on keeping the fans clean, you can expect poor life. Power supply failure is an issue as well.

Hummm... I would love to know what are those qualities:
"Better spectral qualities of diodes versus phosphors used in fluorescent lamps". And what would be the LEDs of your choice over T5s? I even prefer T5s over Orphek. Many coral growers/experts will prefer T5s over LEDs. Thanks for posting.

 

[DeniseAndy]

For 16 years I have used a combo of MH and t5s or just t5s on my tanks. I grow my clams and lps and carpet anemones under t5s and they are thriving. My softies grow under t5s and my MH just great. When I kept sps, it grew wonderful under my t5s and MH.
I change my t5s when they die (sometimes due to salt creep) or around 15 to 18 months. Whenever I remember it has been a while or things just look off a bit.
Basically, only you can decide on the lighting that will work best for you. I think both lighting options have pros and cons. Ultimately, look at what you want the fixture to be. Will it work with an upgrade (we always upgrade). Is it versatile enough for your usage. Then, go with what you think works best.

 

[A. grandis]

Dana, would you say that programmable features of LEDs to be more important than light distribution and uniformity of T5s? Or that is just your personal preference? I personally believe that the right combination of photoperiod and intensity/spectrum to be the more important features of any artificial light source over a reef tank. The right On/OFF timed of a constant intensity should be enough for optimal maintenance of the organisms we keep and the control of intensity should be just an addition to the equation.
And if that would be the case, we can easily control intensity with a timer on each T5 channel, or using the dimmable ATI fixture. Just like LEDs.
By the way, there is a T5 fixture that allows control of each pair of bulbs with wireless control.

LED Lamp – Diuna T5 - Pacific Sun EU

ULTIMATE T5 BULB FIXTURE Pacific Sun’s answer to T5 Reef Lighting, the Diuna offers build quality, features and control that the competition can’t match. Thanks to cooled electronic ballasts and high-quality reflectors (anodized aluminum) offers unprecedented power and performance.

pacific-sun.eu

I appreciate your time here! Thank you!