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Tank 1 "easy corals" uses cheap pumps, I think an old 700GPH catalina pump for the scrubber and a 700GPH ViaAqua pump for the return.
Tank 2 "SPS corals" uses my overflow to feed the Algae scrubber, return pump I use is an eheim 1262 in a 55G sump, pictures below.
Pkunk35: Let's just agree to disagree on skimmers. I really don't feel like getting into a skimmer debate in this thread. I have seen the proof both from scientific studies as well as first hand, I know skimmers are almost pointless, but that is not to say they are harmful. If you have one, run it, if you don't have one though, no reason to buy one IMO because a small bag of ROX carbon will remove well over 80% of the bad stuff from the water, where as a skimmer is lucky to remove 35% of the same stuff, meaning carbon is over 2x better than a skimmer at removing the same bad stuff. Skimmers do help if you overfeed and want to remove the larger food particles out of the water quickly, but as long as you don't overfeed to the point your system can't handle it, then I would rather let the food move around freely in the tank as long as possible in order to feed the tank, not feed the skimmer.
for SPS tanks other filtration methods are required (ie. some extra form of phosphate control
Please share a little more about this how dos this setup work?
You don't "need" a skimmer, but it doesn't really hurt to have that extra bit of insurance for your tank.
Unfortunately, myself, and pretty much everyone else on your forum disagree with you on that, and we have all done our own testing to prove that. You seem to stick to your guns about it though, even when a dozen people prove you wrong time and time again. Anyone can go to your forum and look at the threads regarding that topic. Ask Floyd, srusso, etc.. the people that have been using/building scrubbers the longest (besides you of course). Every one of them, myself included, has seen time and time again phosphates rise in a scrubber only system, while nitrates remain at 0. I just proved it again last month. If we had perfect water and the food we added was at the correct redfield ratio, I would agree with you, but we don't. Food has lots of extra phosphates added for preservation purposes, and RO/DI top of water in my area has .03 phosphates, so my "clean" water is still dirty even though I get 0 TDS and 0 EC on my water test.Actually most sps or any other tank will have zero measurable phosphate if the scrubber is strong enough, without other filters.
Sorry, I understand the valves make it look confusing.. the valves are mostly cosmetic. I needed a way for the water to only go upwards and not out the bottom of the frame, so the valves are always closed on the frame scrubber under normal operation. I just had the valves laying around, so I used them, but they are an expensive solution to the problem that isn't really needed if you just cap the bottom of the frame. I do use the valve near the input line when I clean the screen though.. I just turn the valve open so the water goes out the bottom instead of the slot in the top, then I can remove the screen for cleaning without water splashing everywhere and without having to unplug the pump.
SantaMonica I'd like to thank you for this post. I had been looking for an alternative to chemical filtration cheato for my 28g jbj nano. I built my own version using a jbj led fuge light.
I do have a couple question for you though. I'm going into my 5th day today and I am seeing some growth but not at the rate you have shown. I'm somewhere between your day 2 and day 3. Im thinking one reason is I already have some green hair algae issues in the display section of the tank which for now is taking up some of the readily availble nutrients but once ATS get going it will win out.
I attached some pics below. The air stone im using is probably way bigger than I need and I think it might be making really tiny air bubbles Im wondering if larger air bubbles would make a difference. Does it really matter?
Also I wasnt really sure about the duration I should be running it. You mention running a bulb for 9 hours half the normal time so I just assumed 18 hours for my LED light would be good?
I would love you hear your thought on ways I might be able to improve my configuration.
Sorry, I understand the valves make it look confusing.. the valves are mostly cosmetic. I needed a way for the water to only go upwards and not out the bottom of the frame, so the valves are always closed on the frame scrubber under normal operation. I just had the valves laying around, so I used them, but they are an expensive solution to the problem that isn't really needed if you just cap the bottom of the frame. I do use the valve near the input line when I clean the screen though.. I just turn the valve open so the water goes out the bottom instead of the slot in the top, then I can remove the screen for cleaning without water splashing everywhere and without having to unplug the pump.
hmmmmmmmm Steve Tyree ..........is Steve Tyree and yes after seting up his sponge refugiums and whatever clever setup he has it probably works but we want to do thinks very efficient and long term, also not too complicated if possible. Post a link for his skimmerless tank if you please
the LEDs are white not red. If I used a very thin red lens to turn the color output red should that work about the same as just using red LEDs?
Okay so the water goes up the pipe and cascades over the screen. Are their a dozen holes drilled in the top pipe or is it a slit?
How do you attach the screen and make it removable? Where did you get the screen? So you pump water in from the
sump into this tank? I assume where the skimmer sits in the sump? You have a pump in your algae skimmer to get the
water back into the sump? Is this a low flow type situation?