Managing uglies and keeping coral happy

JoJosReef

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Advice appreciated, and thanks for taking the time to read.

Tank: 2 mo old 13.5g, running floss on intank, 2x chemipure blue nano packets, live rubble, and 9w green monster UV in the AIO sump
Water: LFS made Red Sea Coral Pro
Sg: 1.026, minimal variation by no more than 0.001
Ammonium: 0.25 and holding for >mo (API)
Nitrites: 0 not budging (API)
Nitrates: 5-10ppm with some variation below 5, but not above 10 (API)
Phos: I don't have a test
Ca: 440-450 (Salifert)
Mg: 1330 currently, varying 1260-1330 depending on water change (Salifert)
Alk: 10.9 [10.7-11.5] (Salifert)
Temp: 77-78
Note: I'm new to Salifert, so some measurements may be slightly off. API seems like a guessing game at all times.

Full whites:
IMG_20211119_175451868_HDR.jpg


1. Brown algae: diatoms I think, but unconfirmed--microscope not coming till Xmas, no sooner. Originally had them about a month ago and installed UV 24/7 in DT, now in the AIO sump 4hr per night. Seem to be showing up more now that I am feeding new corals and likely overfeeding. Was giving gsp reef roids every few days, now once a week for gsp, acan lords and alveopora. Should I move UV back to DT? Scale back on feedings (2x per day clowns/fire shrimp getting mysis or pellets or flake)? More/less water changes (1-2x per week ~20%)? Wait it out?

I just got a vacuum siphon and pulled up a lot of it (along with a month of detritus). Came right back next day. Continue doing this or stop? Water seems much dirtier recently with bits floating all around in the flow.

2. Corals. (a) Duncan, seems fine. Feeding mysis every other day and seems happy, unaffected by the algae. (b) alveopora, just started closing up more, looking a bit drab. I don't know if the algae or the water parameters/dirtiness is bothering it. I don't think it would be too much PAR bc I'm guessing its getting below 30 where it is. (c) gsp, not so good. Couple of days closed up, and not opened since wc/vacuuming. About 2 weeks ago had some GHA growing which came with the frag. Took it out and did a 1:1 h2o2 bath (1.5% final) and day later was out and happy. Today all closed and had some red/brown dusting over it (same as brown algae?) And some more GHA, so out again with the h2o2 bath, lots of bubbles--looks cleaner but all closed up. Is this the right thing to do? (d) Acan lords, I have no idea how they are doing or what to look for, but they don't look too bad to my untrained eye.

3. Flow: may be my mind tricking me, but seems like return flow is lower than normal (210gph cheapish from Amazon). Has been running for ~6wk. Should it be taken apart and cleaned? I also feel like the intake isn't pulling in as much as before because all the detritus is swirling round and round and not going into the intake to the floss. How often must these pumps be cleaned? Would a change in flow through filtration cause the algae bloom?

Thanks!



 

blaxsun

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@2 months you shouldn't need to clean the pump, but a quick removal/inspection would confirm that for you. If you're going the Salifert route I'd suggest a phosphate test (one more piece of information to tell a more complete picture).

If you search R2R there are a few threads that talk about which pumps were recommended to upgrade. Are you running the Fluval Ps2 protein skimmer? That could also make a noticeable difference. Also, how often are you rinsing out the main filter sponge? An alternative is filter floss that you can just discard every few days for less maintenance.
 

attiland

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Advice appreciated, and thanks for taking the time to read.

Tank: 2 mo old 13.5g, running floss on intank, 2x chemipure blue nano packets, live rubble, and 9w green monster UV in the AIO sump
Water: LFS made Red Sea Coral Pro
Sg: 1.026, minimal variation by no more than 0.001
Ammonium: 0.25 and holding for >mo (API)
Nitrites: 0 not budging (API)
Nitrates: 5-10ppm with some variation below 5, but not above 10 (API)
Phos: I don't have a test
Ca: 440-450 (Salifert)
Mg: 1330 currently, varying 1260-1330 depending on water change (Salifert)
Alk: 10.9 [10.7-11.5] (Salifert)
Temp: 77-78
Note: I'm new to Salifert, so some measurements may be slightly off. API seems like a guessing game at all times.

Full whites:
IMG_20211119_175451868_HDR.jpg


1. Brown algae: diatoms I think, but unconfirmed--microscope not coming till Xmas, no sooner. Originally had them about a month ago and installed UV 24/7 in DT, now in the AIO sump 4hr per night. Seem to be showing up more now that I am feeding new corals and likely overfeeding. Was giving gsp reef roids every few days, now once a week for gsp, acan lords and alveopora. Should I move UV back to DT? Scale back on feedings (2x per day clowns/fire shrimp getting mysis or pellets or flake)? More/less water changes (1-2x per week ~20%)? Wait it out?

I just got a vacuum siphon and pulled up a lot of it (along with a month of detritus). Came right back next day. Continue doing this or stop? Water seems much dirtier recently with bits floating all around in the flow.

2. Corals. (a) Duncan, seems fine. Feeding mysis every other day and seems happy, unaffected by the algae. (b) alveopora, just started closing up more, looking a bit drab. I don't know if the algae or the water parameters/dirtiness is bothering it. I don't think it would be too much PAR bc I'm guessing its getting below 30 where it is. (c) gsp, not so good. Couple of days closed up, and not opened since wc/vacuuming. About 2 weeks ago had some GHA growing which came with the frag. Took it out and did a 1:1 h2o2 bath (1.5% final) and day later was out and happy. Today all closed and had some red/brown dusting over it (same as brown algae?) And some more GHA, so out again with the h2o2 bath, lots of bubbles--looks cleaner but all closed up. Is this the right thing to do? (d) Acan lords, I have no idea how they are doing or what to look for, but they don't look too bad to my untrained eye.

3. Flow: may be my mind tricking me, but seems like return flow is lower than normal (210gph cheapish from Amazon). Has been running for ~6wk. Should it be taken apart and cleaned? I also feel like the intake isn't pulling in as much as before because all the detritus is swirling round and round and not going into the intake to the floss. How often must these pumps be cleaned? Would a change in flow through filtration cause the algae bloom?

Thanks!
Came back next day? Is it better in the morning than in the late afternoon? If so you are not dealing with diatoms but before you treat wait for your microscope. Your tank is new and this ie expected.
 
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JoJosReef

JoJosReef

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Not running a skimmer as I was advised against it on the Evo. Instead, upgraded to Intank media basket in chamber 1 with filter floss on the top. I usually either rinse it out every 2-3 days (depending on how ugly it is) or rinse it in tank water if I do a mid-week water change. Change to new floss every Sunday water change.

Bit worried about the pump, so I might pull it out tomorrow. There was one water change when I accidentally hit the power switch and it pumped all of the AIO chamber volume out (so some air now into the pump), but I turned it off quickly and refilled the chambers. Hopefully that didn't damage the pump. It is a "Vivosun" 210gph pump. Flow is easilly the hardest aspect of this tank for me to figure out.
 

blaxsun

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Not sure why you would've been advised against it, but especially on the smaller tanks a skimmer can have a huge effect. The PS2 isn't terribly expensive, either.
 

attiland

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I run my 40g without a skimmer still low on nutrients. I whine you are better of wit an algae scrubber instead when it becomes actually an issue.
You mentioned you don’t check for phosphate yet. I would advise you to start to do so. My prescription it is 0.
I would buy Hanna ULR but it is up to you. Make sure it is between 0.03-0.1ppm
I think UV is also something to think about but again wait for your microscope till than we are just guessing.

As an observation;
- looking at your tank picture you really need to test for 6 things; salinity, alk, mg, ca, no3 and po4
- when you have a chance drop the API kit and replace it with one trusted.
 
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JoJosReef

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I run my 40g without a skimmer still low on nutrients. I whine you are better of wit an algae scrubber instead when it becomes actually an issue.
You mentioned you don’t check for phosphate yet. I would advise you to start to do so. My prescription it is 0.
I would buy Hanna ULR but it is up to you. Make sure it is between 0.03-0.1ppm
I think UV is also something to think about but again wait for your microscope till than we are just guessing.

As an observation;
- looking at your tank picture you really need to test for 6 things; salinity, alk, mg, ca, no3 and po4
- when you have a chance drop the API kit and replace it with one trusted.
Thanks!

I do have a 9w green monster UV running in the back chamber 2--was in the DT for a while till the first bloom cleared up and now running 4hr/night in the AIO sump. Ordering Salifert PO4 today--I like the idea of a Hanna but can't get over the expense before reagent costs.

So far 5/6 being tested. Thanks for the PO4 numbers!

API kit should take me to Xmas when a new set of Red Sea tests are expected.
 
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JoJosReef

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Came back next day? Is it better in the morning than in the late afternoon? If so you are not dealing with diatoms but before you treat wait for your microscope. Your tank is new and this ie expected.
Hard to say right now, because it is bad in the morning and in the afternoon. I had the whites ramping up and down to %50 for a 4hr stretch in the middle of the day, and it seems to be worse after that. I switched to blues only today.

A few shots to show the sandbed and the corals. NOTE: I am now seeing some red/browness on the DIY nem guard and some red/brown faint streaking on the front glass.

IMG_20211120_132049962.jpg


IMG_20211120_132139898.jpg
IMG_20211120_132202952.jpg


Alveopora not looking happy
IMG_20211120_132040012.jpg


Gsp also not happy
IMG_20211120_132018885.jpg


I can't tell with the acan lords
IMG_20211120_132023879.jpg


RBTA looking himself
IMG_20211120_132027296.jpg



And I don't know what the green coating on the top of the rocks is all about. It isn't hairy or fuzzy that I can tell. Trochus snails spend a lot of time up there.
IMG_20211120_132035304.jpg
 

attiland

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Hard to say right now, because it is bad in the morning and in the afternoon. I had the whites ramping up and down to %50 for a 4hr stretch in the middle of the day, and it seems to be worse after that. I switched to blues only today.

A few shots to show the sandbed and the corals. NOTE: I am now seeing some red/browness on the DIY nem guard and some red/brown faint streaking on the front glass.

IMG_20211120_132049962.jpg


IMG_20211120_132139898.jpg
IMG_20211120_132202952.jpg


Alveopora not looking happy
IMG_20211120_132040012.jpg


Gsp also not happy
IMG_20211120_132018885.jpg


I can't tell with the acan lords
IMG_20211120_132023879.jpg


RBTA looking himself
IMG_20211120_132027296.jpg



And I don't know what the green coating on the top of the rocks is all about. It isn't hairy or fuzzy that I can tell. Trochus snails spend a lot of time up there.
IMG_20211120_132035304.jpg
These pictures look awfully familiar. Just like mine. In my build tread you will find details. I just don’t want to give my verdict without microscope pics.
mid not already start to run carbon. That bit can’t go wrong.
 
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JoJosReef

JoJosReef

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These pictures look awfully familiar. Just like mine. In my build tread you will find details. I just don’t want to give my verdict without microscope pics.
mid not already start to run carbon. That bit can’t go wrong.
By running carbon, what do you mean? I have chemipure blue in chamber 1 below the floss.

I will bring a scoop of sand to my lab on Mon instead of waiting for Xmas microscope--what magnification do you use for diatoms/dinos?
 

attiland

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By running carbon, what do you mean? I have chemipure blue in chamber 1 below the floss.

I will bring a scoop of sand to my lab on Mon instead of waiting for Xmas microscope--what magnification do you use for diatoms/dinos?
Activated carbon.
ChemiPure blue also removes phosphate
 

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