Martin's CADE S2 1500

martin.a

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Finally! I am sorry for the delay. The tank was purchased in February, but life happened causing some delays. The tank got wet 14 days ago and today ammonia and nitrites finally showed 0 (nitrates at ~15ppm), and I decided that life has to wait, as I finally must start my build thread.

The tank: CADE S2 1500 with white cabinet.
  • Size: 1500 × 700 × 600 mm (L×W×H)
  • Display capacity: 540 L / 143 gal
  • System capacity (total): 640 L / 169 gal
The junk:
  • Lights: x4 A8SE Max
  • Filtering: ReefMatt 1200
  • Skimmer: Octo Elite 200-S
  • Heating: x2 Schego PTC Heaters 300W on Inkbird 306A
  • Return pump: Jebao DCP-10,000 (will be changed into 2-pump system)
  • Powerheads: x2 Jebao GMP-40 (will most likely be expanded)
Aquascape: Marco rocks hand shaped into... well... a scape? I built it some time ago with huge support from the community. Thank you!

The tank/cabinet was purchased from Auburn Aquarium is Sydney, an 'almost-local' FS (Sydney is only 300km away from Canberra), and hand delivered by the shop's owner to my living room. BTW, those guys were beyond awesome. First class experience. I know whom to call when I need another tank. I consider the cost of delivery to be negligible when compared to a possible emotional distress associated with online purchase and use of a courier company.

The delay: The floor needed additional supports as the joists are parallel to the wall. So, pouring of reinforced concrete slabs, getting appropriate structural jacks and beams, installing it all, making sure it's properly over-engineered... a lot of quality time spent in the basement. Some extra floor-and-wall work plus some engineering had to be done before the tank could have been swung into it's final location as the cabinet and the hood are to be duct-vented into the basement and outside. RODI, salt water, fresh air duct for skimmer, emergency power... all in the basement too. Plus lights on risers bolted on the wall. (All DIY.)

20260711_194841.jpg

Fun in the basement. The white square ducts are for venting of the cabinet and the hood. Work in progress.

The sump was modified - the unnecessary glass cut out to fit the ReefMat. The main drain plumbing was redone to allow for hard-plumbing of the ReefMat. Hard plumbing was necessary to fit the ReffMat and the skimmer next to each other at the back of the sump to keep the rest of the sump for refugium (bright or dark, future will tell).
The floor of the cabinet was silicone sealed to the alu frame, the back fully paneled with white acrylic panels, holes added for conduits and air ducts (leading to the basement). After that, finally the whole rig was ready for its final trip.

20260707_114234.jpg

The final 976mm to go. Teflon cooking sheets proved to be the best to get the rig skating. All those 'pipes' on the wall go down to the basement, the blue masking tape outline on the wall is there to help with aiming 😉.

20260707_222550.jpg

Yes Honey, I am almost done, I just need extra 15 minutes!

20260714_135205.jpg

ReefMat and skimmer in the sump. Some 1.2mm room to spare. This picture was taken after the tank was already wet, hence the 'starting' liverock in the red bucket (extra liverock to come). The 'wig' visible in the top-right corner is rockwool plugging the air vent.
 
Finally! I am sorry for the delay. The tank was purchased in February, but life happened causing some delays. The tank got wet 14 days ago and today ammonia and nitrites finally showed 0 (nitrates at ~15ppm), and I decided that life has to wait, as I finally must start my build thread.

The tank: CADE S2 1500 with white cabinet.
  • Size: 1500 × 700 × 600 mm (L×W×H)
  • Display capacity: 540 L / 143 gal
  • System capacity (total): 640 L / 169 gal
The junk:
  • Lights: x4 A8SE Max
  • Filtering: ReefMatt 1200
  • Skimmer: Octo Elite 200-S
  • Heating: x2 Schego PTC Heaters 300W on Inkbird 306A
  • Return pump: Jebao DCP-10,000 (will be changed into 2-pump system)
  • Powerheads: x2 Jebao GMP-40 (will most likely be expanded)
Aquascape: Marco rocks hand shaped into... well... a scape? I built it some time ago with huge support from the community. Thank you!

The tank/cabinet was purchased from Auburn Aquarium is Sydney, an 'almost-local' FS (Sydney is only 300km away from Canberra), and hand delivered by the shop's owner to my living room. BTW, those guys were beyond awesome. First class experience. I know whom to call when I need another tank. I consider the cost of delivery to be negligible when compared to a possible emotional distress associated with online purchase and use of a courier company.

The delay: The floor needed additional supports as the joists are parallel to the wall. So, pouring of reinforced concrete slabs, getting appropriate structural jacks and beams, installing it all, making sure it's properly over-engineered... a lot of quality time spent in the basement. Some extra floor-and-wall work plus some engineering had to be done before the tank could have been swung into it's final location as the cabinet and the hood are to be duct-vented into the basement and outside. RODI, salt water, fresh air duct for skimmer, emergency power... all in the basement too. Plus lights on risers bolted on the wall. (All DIY.)

20260711_194841.jpg

Fun in the basement. The white square ducts are for venting of the cabinet and the hood. Work in progress.

The sump was modified - the unnecessary glass cut out to fit the ReefMat. The main drain plumbing was redone to allow for hard-plumbing of the ReefMat. Hard plumbing was necessary to fit the ReffMat and the skimmer next to each other at the back of the sump to keep the rest of the sump for refugium (bright or dark, future will tell).
The floor of the cabinet was silicone sealed to the alu frame, the back fully paneled with white acrylic panels, holes added for conduits and air ducts (leading to the basement). After that, finally the whole rig was ready for its final trip.

20260707_114234.jpg

The final 976mm to go. Teflon cooking sheets proved to be the best to get the rig skating. All those 'pipes' on the wall go down to the basement, the blue masking tape outline on the wall is there to help with aiming 😉.

20260707_222550.jpg

Yes Honey, I am almost done, I just need extra 15 minutes!

20260714_135205.jpg

ReefMat and skimmer in the sump. Some 1.2mm room to spare. This picture was taken after the tank was already wet, hence the 'starting' liverock in the red bucket (extra liverock to come). The 'wig' visible in the top-right corner is rockwool plugging the air vent.
Goodluck with the new build! It's always an adventure with these things.
 
Two weeks ago... Aquscape in, filling up with RODI.
20260708_224538.jpg


Rocks are 'cleverly glued' to Delrin (POM) blocks. The blocks are 20mm tall (25mm on the left to provide a bit more digging space for a shrimp. Cleverly, as in fact you can't glue anything to Delrin. My original idea was to drill interlocking holes through the base of the rocks and the Delrin blocks, and use delrin rods to lock them together. Fancy. Sadly, drilling in Marco rock turned out to be an awfully unrewarding experience. I stupidly assumed this rock is soft. Well... it is kind of, but impact drilling of any kind available to me doesn't work, and drilling with diamond core bits is too much hassle. So, I blind-drilled the Delrin block at angle instead, epoxy filled the holes and used the same epoxy to glue those block to the base of rocks. Epoxy sticks superb to limestone, and interlocks in the holes in the Delrin blocks. Almost as fancy.... 😉 And probably totally unnecessary.

20260708_140500.jpg

My RODI source. Here at the very beginning, when flushing the membrane from silver residue. DI resin not in yet. My tap water is ~35ppm, but the house plumbing is all solid copper. (As can be seen top-left.)

After the rocks and RODI came the salt. I used Aquaforest Reef Salt. This is the only salt I ever used, so I am not sure if it's good or bad. Notoriously mixes to low alkalinity, but mixes quickly and cleanly.

20260710_175518.jpg

It is cloudy today, but the forecast for tomorrow is clear water with fresh sand. Approx 6 bags of Caribsea Special Grade Reef Sand. I use the same sand at work and I like it. I really expected it to clearout overnight and it did:

20260711_091655.jpg


I overdid the sand a bit... Had to take about a bag out. The left 1/3 has now a slightly thicker bed for a shrimp (as I already mentioned). I want YWG with Tiger Pistol shrimp. The left part of sand bed is separated from the rest with burrowed rocks. We will see if this works... if I get the shrimp. (YWG with a shrimp is at least $700AUD in AU; if and only if one can get it. Not to even mention that most likely the shrimp will not be Alpheus bellulus.)
 
Tank full and water tide. Only one bulk head needed a bit of extra tightening. I am used to orings needing to be held only loosely with the pressure sealing them. Well, this is not scuba-tank kind of pressure, so a bit of extra hand persuasion was needed. BTW, overtightening seems to be the most common reason for failure of those PVC fittings - they crack with time from the stress.

Cycling: I brought about 2kg of live rock and 8kg of live sand from my tank at work. I put them in there for exactly this purpose in February. Both went into the sump.

Of course I made an offering to the Great Goddess of Tank Cycling:

20260711_101338.jpg

The biggest and meanest tiger prawn they had on the market.

Nergigante Eater of Elders made sure we were good to go. (It was not me who named the cat, I call him Puss.)
20260714_112611.jpg


I also dosed a fair bit of Microbacter 7. Probably for religious purposes as its efficacy is rather disputable. (No better than its ability to prevent cavities when used as mouthwash.)

The ammonia increased to 0.8ppm, and the cycling was slowly rolling, but a bit too slow to my liking, and so I started questioning my choices. So, I raised ammonia to 2ppm and introduced FritzZyme 9. Anything smelling so... pungent, must be effective! And the cycling started spinning faster indeed! Of course, having no control, I have no idea if my intervention had any effect on it at all.
 
First metazoa in!

Most of my liverock is still in a separate tank. I dosed that tank with Tisbe, Apocyclops and Tigriopus pods. Additionally some amphipods were introduced from another tank. As I want a pair of Mandarins, I need to have a good, working 'copepodarium' established in my sump.

First, I brought only a handful of the liverock from that tank to be used a source of bacteria for cycling. Once the cycle is over I am to bring the rest, to establish the copepods population. Well, that's what I planned.

It's actually funny: As the cycle was progressing, bacterial film started showing on surfaces. Seen this before. But that film started thinning. I was a bit bamboozled, wondering what went wrong this time. Until, I finally got a magnifying glass and seen hordes of tiny copepods ravaging the bacterial population! They were doing so at 2ppm of ammonia as if this was nothing! Not only they survived, they multiplied exponentially at those rather scary conditions. So, I started dosing some phyto to persuade them to live the bacteria alone 😉. Last night I have seen 2 amphipods marching on the rocks. So much fun already! With 'empty' tank. I may need valium when I finally put fish in.
 
Last edited:
I forgot to show where I squeezed the the heaters in:

20260714_123426.jpg


They went under the ReefMat. Inkbird sensor on the left (under emergency drain). This may be not the perfect location, but seems to actually working all right. I would need to remove the skimmer and the ReefMat to access them. But how often would I want to do it? I made sure heaters do not touch anything. Even with the ReefMat in place I have clear view on the the heaters to check this from time to time.

The white 'buttons' are foot-holders for the ReefMat. They are siliconed to the bottom. They also rise the ReffMatt by 12mm so its handle fits over skimmer's muffler - see the last photo in the first post. Allegedly, rising the ReefMat may also save a bit on the mat, as the water can reach higher level before triggering the sensor.

BTW, getting accurate thermometer is mission impossible! pH - easy, conductivity - no worries, salinity - sure, even DO easy (dissolved oxygen), but temperature? No way! Each thermometer show its own interpretation and no reference! I think, I need to cool something down to 0K to grab a reference point and extrapolate from there 😁.
 
OK, so right now I am ready to move-in the rest of my liverocks, pods and the single trochus and astrea living with them.

One rock which is superbly covered with coraline algae will go into display to seed the rest of the rocks. I will also finally need to install the lights to stimulate coraline algae growth. Of course low level and short period.
And I need to start mustering my 'cleaning crew'. The plan is:
  • Trochus x12
  • Nassarius x6
  • Astrea x12
  • Strombus (conch) x1
  • Gold ring cowrie x2
  • Peppermint shrimp x5
  • Tuxedo urchin x1 (later)
I am very much open to advises!
 

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