Minimizing amount of water I change

[Fishguy321]

I love aquariums and would love to start another nano reef. At the same time, I want to try minimizing my environmental footprint.

I want to try evaporating my waste water so I can throw away the leftover minerals since I live in the Mississippi River water basin, and all of my waste water goes straight back into the Mississippi. I also want to try producing as little RODI waste water as possible since I don't have much use for it (I have a native prairie lawn that needs zero watering).

So, I'm hoping to do 1-1.5 gallon water changes a week if possible.

With that in mind, should I stick with a 15 gallon, low-stock tank (pair of clowns, an anemone, a few soft corals) since it fits the 10% water change rule?

Or could I get away with a 20 or 25 gallon if I kept it stocked with fewer fish and corals than normal (pair of clowns, 1 other fish, an anemone, a few soft corals)? Or would the corals expand to the point that they're emitting too many chemicals and absorbing too many minerals for small water changes?

My must haves for any set up are: pair of ocellaris clowns, an anemone, a few soft corals like Kenya tree.

I kept a 33 long reef for 4-5 years many years back, so I have experience. I was doing 10-15% water changes then and running a protein skimmer.

I'm looking for real advice, so if you want to criticize or joke around, please just move on. Thank you.

NOTE: I've looked up dosing instead of water changes, and either see that it's only recommended for the most experienced hobbyists, and/or that it water changes are still needed at some point.

 

[Elira_6301]

IMO, if you want to have less waste water, smaller tank. Just have to keep good check on your nitrites and nitrates. If you have a superior filter, you shouldn't have any issues. Grab a few snails.or crabs that eat deitrus.

Either way, 10% is 10% water changes no matter what tank. The bigger means more water out during the water change.

What do you want to do? What makes more sense for you?

I have a 75 gallon reef tank and do not use a skimmer or sump. I just check my water parameters a little more often. And do a change once a week. Usually more than 10%. More like 25%. I also use tap water/water softener with prime and stability.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

I think your idea would work once the tank is treading water so to speak, but in the first 6 months up to a year it’s a bit challenging due to algae problems and any other problems or emergencies that might pop up and require frequent water changes. It also depends on your experience level which we don’t know. Anyway wish you good luck

 

[DanyL]

I think you need to put more thought into the viability of doing it.


Think about it like this - you are using far more water and drain far worse chemicals in a single shower, than what you’ll ever do with water changes.

Moreover, unless you have a green source of power, you will likely increase your environmental footprint by trying to evaporate the water, and it’ll probably cost you much more than the water itself.

I’m not even talking about the hassle of doing so, which more than likely will wear you down eventually.

 

[gbroadbridge]

I love aquariums and would love to start another nano reef. At the same time, I want to try minimizing my environmental footprint.

I want to try evaporating my waste water so I can throw away the leftover minerals since I live in the Mississippi River water basin, and all of my waste water goes straight back into the Mississippi. I also want to try producing as little RODI waste water as possible since I don't have much use for it (I have a native prairie lawn that needs zero watering).

So, I'm hoping to do 1-1.5 gallon water changes a week if possible.

With that in mind, should I stick with a 15 gallon, low-stock tank (pair of clowns, an anemone, a few soft corals) since it fits the 10% water change rule?

Or could I get away with a 20 or 25 gallon if I kept it stocked with fewer fish and corals than normal (pair of clowns, 1 other fish, an anemone, a few soft corals)? Or would the corals expand to the point that they're emitting too many chemicals and absorbing too many minerals for small water changes?

My must haves for any set up are: pair of ocellaris clowns, an anemone, a few soft corals like Kenya tree.

I kept a 33 long reef for 4-5 years many years back, so I have experience. I was doing 10-15% water changes then and running a protein skimmer.

I'm looking for real advice, so if you want to criticize or joke around, please just move on. Thank you.

NOTE: I've looked up dosing instead of water changes, and either see that it's only recommended for the most experienced hobbyists, and/or that it water changes are still needed at some point.

You do realise that keeping a reef tank is neither green or cheap?

The best green and cheap reef is an annual vacation to a reef and a snorkel

 

[Elira_6301]

I think the 15 gallon is a great idea. You will do well. Post pics!

 

[Fishguy321]

IMO, if you want to have less waste water, smaller tank. Just have to keep good check on your nitrites and nitrates. If you have a superior filter, you shouldn't have any issues. Grab a few snails.or crabs that eat deitrus.

Either way, 10% is 10% water changes no matter what tank. The bigger means more water out during the water change.

What do you want to do? What makes more sense for you?

I have a 75 gallon reef tank and do not use a skimmer or sump. I just check my water parameters a little more often. And do a change once a week. Usually more than 10%. More like 25%. I also use tap water/water softener with prime and stability.

Yes, this is very logical and I'm normally too logical, but my passion for fish and aquariums is getting in the way!

Can you tell me more about your experience using tap water only, and share a picture? I've thought about that, too, but keep reading that it always causes problems.

I'm really interested in fish far more than corals, so I wouldn't be against a fish-only tank if tap water could work.

 

[Fishguy321]

I think your idea would work once the tank is treading water so to speak, but in the first 6 months up to a year it’s a bit challenging due to algae problems and any other problems or emergencies that might pop up and require frequent water changes. It also depends on your experience level which we don’t know. Anyway wish you good luck

Do you mean my idea of a 1.5 gallon water change on a 20 or 25 gallon tank? Or only on a smaller tank?

 

[Fishguy321]

I think you need to put more thought into the viability of doing it.


Think about it like this - you are using far more water and drain far worse chemicals in a single shower, than what you’ll ever do with water changes.

Moreover, unless you have a green source of power, you will likely increase your environmental footprint by trying to evaporate the water, and it’ll probably cost you much more than the water itself.

I’m not even talking about the hassle of doing so, which more than likely will wear you down eventually.

You do understand there's a big difference between things I have to do (shower) and things I elect to do for fun/luxury (reef tanks)?

I'm not delusional about the everyday impact of my life on the environment, that's why I'm not just jumping into reefkeeping (or other activities) without thinking about how I can minimize my impact.

I've already made a lot of other changes in my life to reduce waste and harm, but am also trying to live a life that has some fun in it, too.

At the end of the day, I don't think I or anyone can avoid causing harm. I'm just trying to do the best that I can. If you want to keep poking holes, go ahead.

 

[Fishguy321]

You do realise that keeping a reef tank is neither green or cheap?

The best green and cheap reef is an annual vacation to a reef and a snorkel

You do realize you're smartXXX comment is only self-serving and not helpful?

Of course I know that, but pretty much every part of our daily life is not green. I'm just trying to do my best. Just because we can't prevent all harm doesn't mean we shouldn't try to minimize it.

Depending on the size of a tank and how you source livestock, it's debatable whether an annual trip is greener considering the impact of air travel and human activity in natural spaces.

 

[Fishguy321]

I think the 15 gallon is a great idea. You will do well. Post pics!

Thank you. I appreciate it.

 

[Elira_6301]

Yes, this is very logical and I'm normally too logical, but my passion for fish and aquariums is getting in the way!

Can you tell me more about your experience using tap water only, and share a picture? I've thought about that, too, but keep reading that it always causes problems.

I'm really interested in fish far more than corals, so I wouldn't be against a fish-only tank if tap water could work.

I do have an water softener because our water is so bad... see the mineral deposits here? We can't drink water from tap in the Permian Basin. Only RODI. Or bottled water. But the Prime will take care of the heavy metals and chlorine. The water softener also eliminates chlorine. I have had ZERO issues with tap even as bad as our water is. I know its a very controversial subject. And to each their own. But for me, tap water works just fine.

 

[Elira_6301]

 

[Fishguy321]

I do have an water softener because our water is so bad... see the mineral deposits here? We can't drink water from tap in the Permian Basin. Only RODI. Or bottled water. But the Prime will take care of the heavy metals and chlorine. The water softener also eliminates chlorine. I have had ZERO issues with tap even as bad as our water is. I know its a very controversial subject. And to each their own. But for me, tap water works just fine.

Your tank looks great! Thank you for the insights and picture.

The mineral deposit on your faucet is insane!

 

[Elira_6301]

I know. It's terrible. Does it in the toliets and everywhere. Highly annoying.

 

[DanyL]

You do understand there's a big difference between things I have to do (shower) and things I elect to do for fun/luxury (reef tanks)?

I'm not delusional about the everyday impact of my life on the environment, that's why I'm not just jumping into reefkeeping (or other activities) without thinking about how I can minimize my impact.

I've already made a lot of other changes in my life to reduce waste and harm, but am also trying to live a life that has some fun in it, too.

At the end of the day, I don't think I or anyone can avoid causing harm. I'm just trying to do the best that I can. If you want to keep poking holes, go ahead.

My point was that instead of adding a single shower to your environmental footprint you are willing to burn fuel and make it times worse than it is.

Instead of going defensive and attacking others who actually care about their environmental footprint to point out the obvious flaws in your plan, try to take the criticism seriously.

Don’t be like Greta.

 

[VintageReefer]

You can do it!

No water changes - if I remove water - like a little to acclimate a coral or fish, I do add saltwater. We are talking about a few cups worth a few times a year…but overall in 10 years this tank has had probably less than 10 gallons changed - and that combined from what I call “chosen events”

I use tap water that goes through a softener and home filter system - it’s a sediment filter + scuba tank of carbon. I don’t produce waste water

Use all for reef, keep fish load low, feed lightly a few times a day, might want to go largest tank size you can afford/fit to offset swings from the inevitable events in the first year like a fish/coral/invert death, cycle processes, and also to increase dilution abilities for the system.

 

[Fishguy321]

My point was that instead of adding a single shower to your environmental footprint you are willing to burn fuel and make it times worse than it is.

Instead of going defensive and attacking others who actually care about their environmental footprint to point out the obvious flaws in your plan, try to take the criticism seriously.

Don’t be like Greta.

So you’re saying you’re one of these people who “actually care about their environment” but you’re a reefer and have no actual advice? Ok.

Nah you’re just trying to be clever by pointing out the obvious (we do everyday things that impact the environment), and are not helpful at all.

Obviously I am considering not starting up a tank at all because of the impact, which is why I’m here raising this topic to begin with. If you think there’s no reason to think or talk about it because we’re causing harm elsewhere, you’re too narrow minded to engage with.

 

[Fishguy321]

You can do it!

No water changes - if I remove water - like a little to acclimate a coral or fish, I do add saltwater. We are talking about a few cups worth a few times a year…but overall in 10 years this tank has had probably less than 10 gallons changed - and that combined from what I call “chosen events”

I use tap water that goes through a softener and home filter system - it’s a sediment filter + scuba tank of carbon. I don’t produce waste water

Use all for reef, keep fish load low, feed lightly a few times a day, might want to go largest tank size you can afford/fit to offset swings from the inevitable events in the first year like a fish/coral/invert death, cycle processes, and also to increase dilution abilities for the system.

Thank you. I appreciate your example and help. It’s good to know it’s possible.

How hard was it to dial in the dosing?

 

[VintageReefer]

Thank you. I appreciate your example and help. It’s good to know it’s possible.

How hard was it to dial in the dosing?

The more changes you make the more tweaks you’ll need. In year 1 your tank will be adjusting a lot as it matures. If you can afford true live rock you may be able to completely bypass the beginning cycles. It will prevent many phosphate issues also

Dry rock will go to through phases where it absorbs phosphates like a sponge over the first year, then suddenly the water has high phosphate and you try to reduce, only to have the rock release stored phosphate back out into the water column to reestablish the tanks equilibrium. This can take months of aggressive phosphate removal to fix.
It almost like you have to fill up dry rock with phosphate and then suck it back out before things are “settled”

True live rock will have gone through this already and also be established with the most important thing - a natural biome of bacterias and this is a key for tank stability and maturity.

Read up on all for reef for beginners to get a good understanding of it in advance

My key highlights would be:
- don’t follow bottle advice and dose based on calcium levels. Dose based on alkalinity levels / drop

- it will replenish calcium, alkalinity, and trace elements in one product

- dose daily at or around the same time

- it is delayed effect - if you have alk 8 and add enough AFR to increase to 8.5, it can take typically 24 hours, possibly little longer, for the alk in the dose, to be converted and released in the system as alk. What happens over that 24-48 hours after you dose? The alk is slowly release AND at the same time, alk is also being consumed by corals. So after 24-48 hours you may still read an 8! Because .5 dkh was released and also .5 dkh was consumed. This means your dosing exactly enough to maintain stability at 8.

- AFR isn’t for corrections it’s for maintaining stability. You would need to use another product to raise dkh to 8.5 manually then you can use the dose above to maintain 8.5

- you figure it your daily or weekly alk drop/consumption and dose based on what’s needed to replenish that

Mastering this concept and product will be a game changer. I suggest reading up on it, it’s not complex or difficult, but it’s unique and should be understood