Must have equipment

[AquaSixAquaticsReef]

Hi all. I have a 32 gallon biocube. It’s a new to me tank but the sand, rocks, and one clownfish inside were downsized from a bigger tank. I am just looking for any recommendations on equipment to use with this tank. Testing kits, controllers, improved wave makers, etc. It’s currently just the basic biocube with an added wavemaker (just a cheap one I had) and a UV light that came with the tank. We plan to eventually upgrade to a much larger tank but thought the 32 would help us get familiar with salt water.

Current stocking:
2 clownfish
1 royal gramma
Several snails
1 crab
5 various soft corals.

Any insight is appreciated.

 

[vittpsu21]

I run a 40 on top of my 200, the biggest learning curve for me was nutrient export, powerheads, and an oversized hob. I run a Tidal 75 on my 40 and 2 powerheads, I started with just the hob and slowly added to it. For export, water changes should handle most of it, but mine still just couldn't keep up so I eventually got an ATS to help but by no means is that required. I would however hook your heaters up to an inkbird at minimum (they are very inexpensive imo) and they have saved me more than a few times

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

What equipment do you have now? A tank picture will help. I assume you have a salinity tester already.


Assuming you have rock in the tank, at the very least a tank needs a heater and a good powerhead, for a 32 gallon I would get a good pair of powerheads. Good quality powerheads can be non-controllable powerheads for as little as $50, or you can get controllable powerheads for more than $300 each.

Inkbird controller for the heater is invaluable to protect against malfunction and cooking the fish.

Weekly water changes will handle the bulk of the filtration IMO. Especially for a small fish load like you currently have.

Testing kit is for keeping corals, or for fighting algae. If no corals and no algae then no need to test IMO, as long we weekly water changes are maintained.

As mentioned above you can add a tidal or a canister filter, or a protein skimmer. I would not bother with uv or a refugium for this size tank. Or add nothing and just maintain weekly water changes.

For fish only tap water is fine, but if you want shrimps and corals and other delicate animals then you should get a rodi unit to filter the water.

The hobby is as simple or complex as you make it, it depends on what you ultimately envision for the tank. I get the impression you are still learning so go slow and do lots of research. Asking questions is good, but everybody has their own way so you will always get lots of conflicting info.

 

[AquaSixAquaticsReef]

This is the only picture I currently have. I added a wavemaker to the right side last night. I do have a Duncan, gsp, zoas, a hairy mushroom, and a magician I’ve added since this picture.

Equipment I have:
Digital salinity tester and manual refractometer
RO water system
Heater
Wavemaker(one speed small)
Fritz Calcium test
API PH and Alkalinity tests
3D printed media basket in the middle chamber.

 

[BryanM]

ATO's aren't mandatory, but they are extremely nice to haves and are a big quality of life improvement.

How are you addressing nutrient export?

 

[AquaSixAquaticsReef]

I have been doing 2.5 gallon water changes weekly.

 

[exnisstech]

One of my tanks, an IM20 here. I have an ATO, heat on an inkbird, 1 mp10 and one tunze nano powerhead. I run some floss a few times a week when I'm cleaning the glass. No other mechanical filtration like a skimmer. No controller or auto doser. I manually dose AFR.

330g here running exactly as the 20 above except I have a skimmer and ATS but I also have high N and P . I manually dose ESV 2 part each morning

You can run a tank simple, high tech or any where in between. It's up to you. Many of the things that people see as necessary for success really aren't necessary IME

Heck why not another example.
SPS tank. Inkbird, ATO, auto doser for AFR. Reefmat and nonfunctioning skimmer. 6 powerheads for flow.

 

[AquaSixAquaticsReef]

One of my tanks, an IM20 here. I have an ATO, heat on an inkbird, 1 mp10 and one tunze nano powerhead. I run some floss a few times a week when I'm cleaning the glass. No other mechanical filtration like a skimmer. No controller or auto doser. I manually dose AFR.

330g here running exactly as the 20 above except I have a skimmer and ATS but I also have high N and P . I manually dose ESV 2 part each morning

You can run a tank simple, high tech or any where in between. It's up to you. Many of the things that people see as necessary for success really aren't necessary IME

Heck why not another example.
SPS tank. Inkbird, ATO, auto doser for AFR. Reefmat and nonfunctioning skimmer. 6 powerheads for flow.

Ok probably going to be a stupid question, what is AFR? Also what do you use to test your water? I primarily have freshwater tanks so there’s quite a curve for me here.

 

[Grog]

AFR - All for Reef

 

[exnisstech]

Ok probably going to be a stupid question, what is AFR? Also what do you use to test your water? I primarily have freshwater tanks so there’s quite a curve for me here.

No dumb questions. AFR stand for all for reef which is a calcium and alkalinity supplement along with some trace elements and things over my head. It's similar to 2 part but an all in one.
For my regular testing I use Hanna checkers. My regular testing is nitrate, phosphate, and alkalinity. I use salifert test for calcium but only check that every couple of months because it doesn't fluctuate much in my tanks. There are other test kits that work fine but I prefer the Hanna testers because it's easier for me to read than color changing tests. There are many other things that people test for, even ICP lab analysis testing is used but I don't feel the need so I keep it simple. I keep coral so alk is the most important parameter to track for me. Well salinty too but I think that goes without saying. I have tanks that run at or near zero nitrate and phosphates and one that runs levels so high it would scare many people but the tank look good so O let it roll.
One thing i found works for me is to let a new tank run for 6 months to a year to reach a normal state before I decide if I need to intervene and lower N and or P. Some go in with a set of numbers they want and they'll take action to reach those numbers and often that can be detrimental to the tank health. I will dose to raise N and P if see zero because I've had dinos so I want ro avoid having to deal with those again but I usually don't fret higher N and P levels.
You'll find there are many ways to a successful tank. So many ways the information can be overwhelming when your new to the hobby so take it slow and choose a path and stay the path vs changing things often. Many new people see normal things like some algae and panic which usually causes more problems.
Sorry for rambling but you said you're new so I figured I'd share some of what works for me. Less is more for me but I'm not into all the tech that is available. It can be a hobby within the hobby if your into tech. I would learn the basics and how to deal with issues that arise before going down that path but that's just me.

PS. Most testing isn't that important if your not keeping coral.

 

[AquaSixAquaticsReef]

Thank you for all the information. I think I’m going to invest in some of the Hannah testers. They’re just very expensive but they seem much quicker than counting how many drops I did and forgetting if I did one or not lol.