OP
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Jupiter area
My 900 gallon "dream" is coming to life!!
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Jupiter area
OP
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It's been 4 years and still going strong. It's hard to believe that my fish were so tiny when I first got them.
I haven't done any major changes since the original build.... until now!!
I decided to take advantage of the 20% off sale on Abyzz pumps over the 4th of July weekend and am replacing all 5 of my existing large AC pumps (all external) which are VERY noisy, VERY hot and create micro bubbles.
I live in south FL so heat is big problem for me. My 5 large AC pumps not only give off a lot of heat, they also heat the water from friction as well. I have a large chiller with an external compressor that cycles 2 hours on - 2 hours off all day every day all year long. So saving on my electricity bill is also a huge part of the goal. I am told the Abyzz pumps stay cool but the "transformers" (which convert AC to DC) get warm so I am mounting them 6' away in the cabinet above the tank with a fan to draw air over them and out into the room.
The challenge is that everything is plumbed perfectly as is and now I have to retrofit pipes to adapt to the new pumps. And in order to do that, I pretty much have to do it all at the same time. Some of the pumps are hard to reach and the best way to do this would be to remove existing pumps and plumbing to make enough room to get in there and work on the pumps hardest to reach first. My plan is to leave one closed loop pump running for circulation while I do the other 4. Once those are done I'll turn everything on and check for leaks, etc. Then go back later on to do the last one which I can reach from another side.
I'm planning out the new layout and will glue up as much as I can in advance. Then once I remove everything, I can slide the new pumps into place (with plumbing attached) and make the final connections. Trying to work it out so I can just connect into one existing union on the input side an one on the output side.
I don't want the whole system to be out too long without pumps running so I am spending a lot of time planning this all out in advance. My wife just rolls her eyes at all the measuring and drawings and plumbing parts but she did volunteer to help on the big day.
My expectations are that this new retrofit will be dead quiet with very little heat and no more micro bubbles. The real test will be in the electric bill. The DC pumps use less than half the watts of the AC pumps plus the savings on the chiller should be significant. After 30 years or so, it should offset the ridiculous cost of these Abyzz pumps... :-0
I haven't done any major changes since the original build.... until now!!
I decided to take advantage of the 20% off sale on Abyzz pumps over the 4th of July weekend and am replacing all 5 of my existing large AC pumps (all external) which are VERY noisy, VERY hot and create micro bubbles.
I live in south FL so heat is big problem for me. My 5 large AC pumps not only give off a lot of heat, they also heat the water from friction as well. I have a large chiller with an external compressor that cycles 2 hours on - 2 hours off all day every day all year long. So saving on my electricity bill is also a huge part of the goal. I am told the Abyzz pumps stay cool but the "transformers" (which convert AC to DC) get warm so I am mounting them 6' away in the cabinet above the tank with a fan to draw air over them and out into the room.
The challenge is that everything is plumbed perfectly as is and now I have to retrofit pipes to adapt to the new pumps. And in order to do that, I pretty much have to do it all at the same time. Some of the pumps are hard to reach and the best way to do this would be to remove existing pumps and plumbing to make enough room to get in there and work on the pumps hardest to reach first. My plan is to leave one closed loop pump running for circulation while I do the other 4. Once those are done I'll turn everything on and check for leaks, etc. Then go back later on to do the last one which I can reach from another side.
I'm planning out the new layout and will glue up as much as I can in advance. Then once I remove everything, I can slide the new pumps into place (with plumbing attached) and make the final connections. Trying to work it out so I can just connect into one existing union on the input side an one on the output side.
I don't want the whole system to be out too long without pumps running so I am spending a lot of time planning this all out in advance. My wife just rolls her eyes at all the measuring and drawings and plumbing parts but she did volunteer to help on the big day.
My expectations are that this new retrofit will be dead quiet with very little heat and no more micro bubbles. The real test will be in the electric bill. The DC pumps use less than half the watts of the AC pumps plus the savings on the chiller should be significant. After 30 years or so, it should offset the ridiculous cost of these Abyzz pumps... :-0
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Sounds like a solid plan...good luck with the transition. It's never fun taking a well running system and changing things but eliminating chiller would be a huge benefit if possible.
NeverlosT
SPS nut
I highly suggest testing the pumps before hard plumbing all in.
I recently switched from Vectra L1 to Red Dragon RD3, I spent all this time perfecting the pluming and manifold to the new pump, hooked it up, and the brand new RD3 leaked like a seive from the volute. Not saying the Abyzz will, but I didnt expect the RD to leak so anything is possible.
It would relieve some risk to ensure that all work as planned before the big switch.
Good luck, post pics!!
I recently switched from Vectra L1 to Red Dragon RD3, I spent all this time perfecting the pluming and manifold to the new pump, hooked it up, and the brand new RD3 leaked like a seive from the volute. Not saying the Abyzz will, but I didnt expect the RD to leak so anything is possible.
It would relieve some risk to ensure that all work as planned before the big switch.
Good luck, post pics!!
OP
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You are reminding me of bad dream I had about this very thing... but yes, definitely !!
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Woke up this morning to a voltage error message from my Apex and water on the floor. One of my old hammerheads (which is days away from being replaced) had some sort of problem. I got an error message that it was drawing low watts which has been happening a bit over the last few months. I wasn't too worried about it because it is getting replaced. However, this time it tripped the breaker in the EB832 which shut down 5 other outlets. And since I had the sump a little extra full in preparation for my pump replacement project, it spilled over onto the floor.
What are the chances of all that happening two days before everything gets swapped out.... ugh. First stupid mistake on my part causing water on the floor. I guess I shouldn't complain since my system is over 4 years old... that's a pretty good run!!
What are the chances of all that happening two days before everything gets swapped out.... ugh. First stupid mistake on my part causing water on the floor. I guess I shouldn't complain since my system is over 4 years old... that's a pretty good run!!
NeverlosT
SPS nut
Brutal! Get those pumps swapped! At least you could see some of the info/warnings due to the Apex use, though the apex then caused more issues by tripping the EB832. ah well
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5 Soldiers lined up and ready for inspection....
Installed the transformers on the wall in the cabinet above the tank with a fan to draw the heat out. It looks so simple but turned out to be one heck of a pain in the ____ with bloody knuckles and lots of cursing. I ended up using heavy duty construction adhesive in a caulking gun to get them to stay in place first so that I could then screw them in.
The power cords are 5' long and just barely reach my Apex below the tank. The tank is 48" tall.
The black cable is an Apex bus cable running over to my lights.
Installed the transformers on the wall in the cabinet above the tank with a fan to draw the heat out. It looks so simple but turned out to be one heck of a pain in the ____ with bloody knuckles and lots of cursing. I ended up using heavy duty construction adhesive in a caulking gun to get them to stay in place first so that I could then screw them in.
The power cords are 5' long and just barely reach my Apex below the tank. The tank is 48" tall.
The black cable is an Apex bus cable running over to my lights.
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AiKkz
Hard work beats talent every time
Thank You!
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Chemiclean did not really work that well on an outbreak of Cyano. I'd say maybe 50% improvement and that was with two treatments.
But my skimmer had the best shampoo ever....
But my skimmer had the best shampoo ever....
OP
OP
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Active Member
5 Soldiers lined up and ready for inspection....
Installed the transformers on the wall in the cabinet above the tank with a fan to draw the heat out. It looks so simple but turned out to be one heck of a pain in the ____ with bloody knuckles and lots of cursing. I ended up using heavy duty construction adhesive in a caulking gun to get them to stay in place first so that I could then screw them in.
The power cords are 5' long and just barely reach my Apex below the tank. The tank is 48" tall.
The black cable is an Apex bus cable running over to my lights.
Spent 8 hours yesterday on hands a knees under the tank swapping out pumps and retrofitting plumbing. Only managed to complete 3 out of the 5 pumps. I did the 2 return pumps and the pump that feeds the external skimmer. Still have the 2 recirculating pumps left to do that are plumbed through the bottom of the tank. They are hard to reach so saving them for the last.
Long story short, it was a %@#$ of a job. I had everything carefully planned and ready to go but ran into a major problem right from the start. My plan was to disconnect the unions coming out of the sump and then plumb the new pumps by screwing onto the existing unions. For some reason, the standard PVC sched 40 unions that I bought would not thread onto the existing unions. Who knew standard does not mean standard???
I was trying to limit the amount of time my job took and get the water flowing again but fate was not my friend yesterday. I purposely left the 2 recirculating pumps running for flow in the tank so it was not really a big deal.
Good news....
1. WOW are these new pumps quiet. I have been listening to the big old hammerheads for 5 years now and what a difference. For you DC guys, imagine having 5 swimming pool pumps running in your house all day. These new pumps remind me of my first ride in an electric car - dead silent.
2. I am running the new pumps at only 60% for the same flow rate and its only 150 watts. My old pumps were 450 watts... each!!
3. My chiller used to cycle on every 2 hours due to the heat from the old pumps. Now it is every 5 hours. I expect that to be even less when I replace the final two pumps.
4. No more micro-bubbles!!!
5. My wife is so happy about # 1 - 4. Really happy. Even helped my by running to the store for me when I needed a part.
OP
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Thought I would capture a few things that I do for those with larger systems.
Pics first for those who won't read anything without pics.....
I have 900 gallons of SW which is a lot by comparison to most folks. Due to the large volume, it takes a very long time for my parameters to change resulting in great stability. The bad part is that it takes a lot of money for salt and dosing chemicals. Water changes on this much volume are not a cost effective nor practical option for managing nutrient control. So I use a large 50 gal fuge full of chaeto with a quality grow light, an over-sized skimmer 24x7 (with a neck cleaner) and a “relatively” small AWC of 15% per month (and even that is still 4 gallons per day).
My approach to nutrient control has worked very well and is a hands off, no chemical solution. I have very little manual labor and my cost is roughly 120 gallons of SW per month. I did run GFO in a reactor at times during the initial years but have not used it in over 2 years now. Oh those initial years with Pukani rock…. seems like it took forever for the system to finally reach a nice balance.
I use 200 micron filter socks but not for nutrient control. I use them to control sound and bubbles from the overflow pipes. I find that it keeps things nice a quiet and all the bubbles stay contained in the socks. I change the socks only when they get so clogged that the water starts to overflow them (about 2 weeks). I also like the socks because I have a bare bottom system and hate seeing fish poop drifting around in my DT all the time. I’m sure the socks full of gunk for 2 weeks are not doing much for nutrient control.
My skimmer cup drain is plumbed into the sewer drain. I do NOT recommend this unless you implement automation measures to prevent a skimmer overflow from draining your whole system!! Having said that, I skim wet and dose 4 gal of SW per day. That is my AWC. My skimmer tends to skim “wetter” (remove more water) when the sump level increases and it achieves a natural way of matching the replacement water.
Because of this, instead of ATO, I dose my RODI for evaporation replacement. I live in south FL where the AC runs pretty much year round so my evaporation is constant. As I mentioned earlier, it takes a long time for salinity to change in my system. I test salinity and change the dosing if needed (hardly ever need to change it).
I started out using Kalk but for many reasons gave up on it and switched to 2 part. Dosing 2 part in a 900 gal system is not cost effective but I love it because I can dial it in. I don’t really have a good place for a calc reactor but I know it’s in the cards for me at some point.
So everything sounds pretty good so far right?? Mother Nature loves balance right??
Until I go away for an extended period of time and then everything goes to hell. Somehow, in some way, my daily care and attention to the system must be part of its balance. I have to figure out exactly what I am doing because I’m at the point where I hate to be away for long periods and feel tied to my system.
For example this last time it was 3 weeks away and nutrients got out of balance. I’m actually at the point where I am dosing Vibrant hoping the introduction of that bacteria will shift the needle in my favor a bit. 3 weeks away from home results in 6 months of work to trying to get everything back into balance. You can see the results in the pics.
Bottom line…. even with 900 gallons of stability, everything is wonderful until it’s not…
Pics first for those who won't read anything without pics.....
I have 900 gallons of SW which is a lot by comparison to most folks. Due to the large volume, it takes a very long time for my parameters to change resulting in great stability. The bad part is that it takes a lot of money for salt and dosing chemicals. Water changes on this much volume are not a cost effective nor practical option for managing nutrient control. So I use a large 50 gal fuge full of chaeto with a quality grow light, an over-sized skimmer 24x7 (with a neck cleaner) and a “relatively” small AWC of 15% per month (and even that is still 4 gallons per day).
My approach to nutrient control has worked very well and is a hands off, no chemical solution. I have very little manual labor and my cost is roughly 120 gallons of SW per month. I did run GFO in a reactor at times during the initial years but have not used it in over 2 years now. Oh those initial years with Pukani rock…. seems like it took forever for the system to finally reach a nice balance.
I use 200 micron filter socks but not for nutrient control. I use them to control sound and bubbles from the overflow pipes. I find that it keeps things nice a quiet and all the bubbles stay contained in the socks. I change the socks only when they get so clogged that the water starts to overflow them (about 2 weeks). I also like the socks because I have a bare bottom system and hate seeing fish poop drifting around in my DT all the time. I’m sure the socks full of gunk for 2 weeks are not doing much for nutrient control.
My skimmer cup drain is plumbed into the sewer drain. I do NOT recommend this unless you implement automation measures to prevent a skimmer overflow from draining your whole system!! Having said that, I skim wet and dose 4 gal of SW per day. That is my AWC. My skimmer tends to skim “wetter” (remove more water) when the sump level increases and it achieves a natural way of matching the replacement water.
Because of this, instead of ATO, I dose my RODI for evaporation replacement. I live in south FL where the AC runs pretty much year round so my evaporation is constant. As I mentioned earlier, it takes a long time for salinity to change in my system. I test salinity and change the dosing if needed (hardly ever need to change it).
I started out using Kalk but for many reasons gave up on it and switched to 2 part. Dosing 2 part in a 900 gal system is not cost effective but I love it because I can dial it in. I don’t really have a good place for a calc reactor but I know it’s in the cards for me at some point.
So everything sounds pretty good so far right?? Mother Nature loves balance right??
Until I go away for an extended period of time and then everything goes to hell. Somehow, in some way, my daily care and attention to the system must be part of its balance. I have to figure out exactly what I am doing because I’m at the point where I hate to be away for long periods and feel tied to my system.
For example this last time it was 3 weeks away and nutrients got out of balance. I’m actually at the point where I am dosing Vibrant hoping the introduction of that bacteria will shift the needle in my favor a bit. 3 weeks away from home results in 6 months of work to trying to get everything back into balance. You can see the results in the pics.
Bottom line…. even with 900 gallons of stability, everything is wonderful until it’s not…
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