OP
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You think I try and go between the plug and the glue and not the frag and the glue? I worry I bring along some bubble algae with the glue.
My Office Waterbox Marine X 35.1 Cube Build
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It went OK. The little bugger didn't want to detach from the glue no matter how hard I twisted/pushed/pulled. Eventually had to use my coral cutters and snipped off the base. We'll see how well it recovers, but I'm glad there's no more bubble algae nuisance (that I know of) I need to deal with.
In other news - I ordered two more fish! I went with Dr. Reef as I don't have the patience/attention-to-detail to quarantine myself and the prices are very attractive. I purchased an Orchid Dottyback and a Firefish Exquisite, each are <= 3" at fully grown. I realize four fish is very much the maximum bio load a 22g can/should have - and even then I may be pushing it. Potential plan (wife willing) is to get another tank in the future, so if they show any signs of stress I will hopefully be able to transfer. Dr. Reef seems to be very behind on orders, so I don't expect to receive these little guys any time soon.
Lastly, I'm going on a short vacation this weekend. My brother will be caring for the fish/coral. I'm a bit nervous, but crossing fingers he doesn't do much more than feed - things should really take care of themselves. I showed him a feeding session last week, so he knows the drill (turn off skimmer, pump, ato - feed as much as they'll take in 2min.)
In other news - I ordered two more fish! I went with Dr. Reef as I don't have the patience/attention-to-detail to quarantine myself and the prices are very attractive. I purchased an Orchid Dottyback and a Firefish Exquisite, each are <= 3" at fully grown. I realize four fish is very much the maximum bio load a 22g can/should have - and even then I may be pushing it. Potential plan (wife willing) is to get another tank in the future, so if they show any signs of stress I will hopefully be able to transfer. Dr. Reef seems to be very behind on orders, so I don't expect to receive these little guys any time soon.
Lastly, I'm going on a short vacation this weekend. My brother will be caring for the fish/coral. I'm a bit nervous, but crossing fingers he doesn't do much more than feed - things should really take care of themselves. I showed him a feeding session last week, so he knows the drill (turn off skimmer, pump, ato - feed as much as they'll take in 2min.)
jhuntstl
Valuable Member
They must be using some good glue! I brought home a few frags today and was able to pop them off cleanly with a little prying leverage.
Enjoy your vacation! I'm sure everything will operate smoothly while you're gone. Looking forward to the new fish update!
Enjoy your vacation! I'm sure everything will operate smoothly while you're gone. Looking forward to the new fish update!
OP
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A few updates, reporting from the tropical resorts in Los Cabos San Lucas, Mexico. My brother is maintaining my tank while I'm away.
A day before leaving I saw a post from a fellow reefer offering up a FREE Rainbow BTA if someone could locally pickup. How could I resist? I know, I know, everyone says you should wait 6 months before getting a nem...but but but, if the stars align, maybe everything will turn out ok? So I drove, picked it up, spent 30 minutes acclimating while reading about anemones and how to introduce to your tank. Massaged the heck out of its little foot (so squishy) and managed to detach it from the cup and placed it in a spot that would be 'ideal' for everyone. Stayed up way past bedtime until it looked like it attached and then turned back on the powerhead/pump. Slept a little uneasy, but woke up to a happy, very open and slightly moved (no problems, go where you want!) nem!
I also removed some of my rockscape and replaced with a smaller piece. That was...difficult. It seems to have worked well though and I like the less bulky view of the tank. Also now I can fit more pieces that like medium light (euphyllia.) Video incoming!
A day before leaving I saw a post from a fellow reefer offering up a FREE Rainbow BTA if someone could locally pickup. How could I resist? I know, I know, everyone says you should wait 6 months before getting a nem...but but but, if the stars align, maybe everything will turn out ok? So I drove, picked it up, spent 30 minutes acclimating while reading about anemones and how to introduce to your tank. Massaged the heck out of its little foot (so squishy) and managed to detach it from the cup and placed it in a spot that would be 'ideal' for everyone. Stayed up way past bedtime until it looked like it attached and then turned back on the powerhead/pump. Slept a little uneasy, but woke up to a happy, very open and slightly moved (no problems, go where you want!) nem!
I also removed some of my rockscape and replaced with a smaller piece. That was...difficult. It seems to have worked well though and I like the less bulky view of the tank. Also now I can fit more pieces that like medium light (euphyllia.) Video incoming!
OP
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Video of my tank with the RBTA. Next time I'll try and set the blues a little less.
OP
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Back from my vacation and the tank seems to be doing alright. Pretty decent coral growth all around and the clownfish are doing well. On to the new and curious developments though...
I've discovered what I believe to be spirorbid worms...everywhere. They're on my back wall, on the rockscape, and they're especially on my 'extra' snailshells in the sandbed. Concensus seems to be to just leave them be. I hope they don't get out of control.
I've also discovered what I think may be hydroids. My identify post here. It's difficult to know what strain, but they're multiplying and I'm thinking about trying to toothbrush them off. Consensus seems to be these are not good and can suffocate coral. Unsure on path forward if toothbrushing doesn't work.
I grabbed an Apogee SQ-420 par meter from BRS. I now have a tank par map and...it's surprising. I really don't have a lot of 'low light' areas and I wonder if this warrants a change somehow. Most LPS don't like the mount of light I'm supplying, but some do and I may just need to adjust my coral desires to accommodate. Either that or lower my output and stop keeping much if any SPS. Or change my scape to allow for more shady area. A few options I'm still debating.
I've discovered what I believe to be spirorbid worms...everywhere. They're on my back wall, on the rockscape, and they're especially on my 'extra' snailshells in the sandbed. Concensus seems to be to just leave them be. I hope they don't get out of control.
I've also discovered what I think may be hydroids. My identify post here. It's difficult to know what strain, but they're multiplying and I'm thinking about trying to toothbrush them off. Consensus seems to be these are not good and can suffocate coral. Unsure on path forward if toothbrushing doesn't work.
I grabbed an Apogee SQ-420 par meter from BRS. I now have a tank par map and...it's surprising. I really don't have a lot of 'low light' areas and I wonder if this warrants a change somehow. Most LPS don't like the mount of light I'm supplying, but some do and I may just need to adjust my coral desires to accommodate. Either that or lower my output and stop keeping much if any SPS. Or change my scape to allow for more shady area. A few options I'm still debating.
jhuntstl
Valuable Member
Those spirorbid spread quick. Wow! I would embrace the diversity they bring, but ya hopefully they don't get too insane. I have no experience with hydroids. Maybe scrub them off then super glue over the area?
What % are your primes at and on what preset?
What % are your primes at and on what preset?
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We'll see for the spirorbids. Not a lot I can do about it.
I'm running BRS' AI Prime schedule for 18" cube. Prime is mounted ~10" from the top of the water.
Here's the screenshot from their Youtube vid:
It's very interesting because those are definitely not my numbers on the sandbed. I'm getting easy 150+ par ratings on my bed.
OP
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Set up my Reef Pi temperature monitor as well as dosing pump today! It was a fair amount of soldering, but the guides for how to do it are pretty decent and I had it all done in about 1-2 hours. Well worth the savings!
The temp monitor, even once calibrated is showing roughly 1deg less than my inkbird temp monitor. Very curious, I even e-mailed the manufacturer of the sensor and the guy mentioned that's possible, and he's curious what Inkbird says with the calibration liquid. I haven't tested InkBird's calibration yet, but maybe in the future - I'm fine with 1deg discrepancy for now.
The DIY dosing pump is super cool. I'm just using BRS' 1 gallon mixing container with a hole drilled in the top (an another for air.) I ordered an Ice Cap dosing container that I'll transfer my liquid soda ash to later in the week. I've set up my Reef Pi to dose every 2 hours between 8pm - 6am of roughly 0.875ml over 15 seconds (based on my calibration measurements.) So to start with that's about 6ml of soda ash dosed every day. I'll be testing my Alk daily to monitor balance. For reference, the doser's lowest setting is 3.5ml over 60s.
Everything is kinda janky at the moment as its just sitting in a little cardboard box. I've got to design some sort of container, especially something that can mitigate a dosing leak. Imminent hurdle I need to work on.
The temp monitor, even once calibrated is showing roughly 1deg less than my inkbird temp monitor. Very curious, I even e-mailed the manufacturer of the sensor and the guy mentioned that's possible, and he's curious what Inkbird says with the calibration liquid. I haven't tested InkBird's calibration yet, but maybe in the future - I'm fine with 1deg discrepancy for now.
The DIY dosing pump is super cool. I'm just using BRS' 1 gallon mixing container with a hole drilled in the top (an another for air.) I ordered an Ice Cap dosing container that I'll transfer my liquid soda ash to later in the week. I've set up my Reef Pi to dose every 2 hours between 8pm - 6am of roughly 0.875ml over 15 seconds (based on my calibration measurements.) So to start with that's about 6ml of soda ash dosed every day. I'll be testing my Alk daily to monitor balance. For reference, the doser's lowest setting is 3.5ml over 60s.
Everything is kinda janky at the moment as its just sitting in a little cardboard box. I've got to design some sort of container, especially something that can mitigate a dosing leak. Imminent hurdle I need to work on.
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jhuntstl
Valuable Member
Interesting indeed. Those little lights are powerful! I've yet to rent a par meter myself, but your map is helpful. My par with two primes may be higher than I thought.We'll see for the spirorbids. Not a lot I can do about it.
I'm running BRS' AI Prime schedule for 18" cube. Prime is mounted ~10" from the top of the water.
Here's the screenshot from their Youtube vid:
It's very interesting because those are definitely not my numbers on the sandbed. I'm getting easy 150+ par ratings on my bed.
OP
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Received my Orchid Dottyback and Firefish Exquisite from Dr Reefs Quarantined Fish today! They arrived in good condition and after following the suggested acclimation procedure I added them to my DT. The Dottyback is super curious and within 15 minutes was exploring the bottom of the tank, and an hour or so later is coming up to the glass without shying away from me. The Firefish on the otherhand is just barely visible, moving from cave to cave, hiding as best as they can. I hope to get some decent feeding involvement tonight from both.
My clownfish don't seem to care at all about the new fish additions. They've gone up to inspect them a few times, but have otherwise left them completely alone.
My clownfish don't seem to care at all about the new fish additions. They've gone up to inspect them a few times, but have otherwise left them completely alone.
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Everyone's out to party!
The firefish is still super shy, but comes out when I feed frozen foods and chomps down on anything in its vicinity. The dottyback seems to be doing well too, eating regularly and continuously explores the tank, especially when the lights are on.
I think the tank is doing pretty well all things considered (age and persistent sandbed algae being two things.) My nutrient levels aren't 'ideal' though. I'm at ~1-2ppm NO3 and 0.00ppm PO4. With two new fish added this past week I'm hoping I can raise my levels with some slight additional feedings. Right now I feed twice a day, usually dry flakes/pellets and then half a frozen cube. I'm also increasing my skimmer 'off' period to 4hrs a day (up from 3.)
CO2 scrubber seems to be about 60% depleted based on my color observation estimate. Scrubber was added on 7/30, so we're just over 3 weeks and if the 60% is true, seems we'll get roughly 5 weeks per container.
The firefish is still super shy, but comes out when I feed frozen foods and chomps down on anything in its vicinity. The dottyback seems to be doing well too, eating regularly and continuously explores the tank, especially when the lights are on.
I think the tank is doing pretty well all things considered (age and persistent sandbed algae being two things.) My nutrient levels aren't 'ideal' though. I'm at ~1-2ppm NO3 and 0.00ppm PO4. With two new fish added this past week I'm hoping I can raise my levels with some slight additional feedings. Right now I feed twice a day, usually dry flakes/pellets and then half a frozen cube. I'm also increasing my skimmer 'off' period to 4hrs a day (up from 3.)
CO2 scrubber seems to be about 60% depleted based on my color observation estimate. Scrubber was added on 7/30, so we're just over 3 weeks and if the 60% is true, seems we'll get roughly 5 weeks per container.
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Ordered a few new corals from @Queen City Corals (thanks for the R2R discount!) last week. I've been fascinated by Euphyllia corals and just couldn't wait any longer to dip these beauties in my tank! "Stability" is key. So this is really going to be my biggest test yet.
Well they arrived today in great condition! Fast shipping and as far as I could see after a short CoralRX dip, contained minimal pests (one asterina fell off and I scraped off what looked like one vermetid snail, but might have just been chunky coralline.)
Purchase list:
Debating on the precise location of everything still, but the mushrooms will be on the sand glued to some frag rocks. I'll post again after I make a little progress.
(Zoa looked angry and closed up so I moved him to the sand.)
Well they arrived today in great condition! Fast shipping and as far as I could see after a short CoralRX dip, contained minimal pests (one asterina fell off and I scraped off what looked like one vermetid snail, but might have just been chunky coralline.)
Purchase list:
| QCC Candy Paint Yuma Mushroom |
| Yellow/Green Hammer |
| Orange Ricordea Mushroom |
| Solar Flare Zoa |
| Aussie Pink Tip Torch |
| Green Star Polyp (Freebie!) |
Debating on the precise location of everything still, but the mushrooms will be on the sand glued to some frag rocks. I'll post again after I make a little progress.
(Zoa looked angry and closed up so I moved him to the sand.)
Queen City Corals
Well-Known Member
Thanks Gedxin! The corals look happy and healthy, and the tank looks great!Ordered a few new corals from @Queen City Corals (thanks for the R2R discount!) last week. I've been fascinated by Euphyllia corals and just couldn't wait any longer to dip these beauties in my tank! "Stability" is key. So this is really going to be my biggest test yet.
Well they arrived today in great condition! Fast shipping and as far as I could see after a short CoralRX dip, contained minimal pests (one asterina fell off and I scraped off what looked like one vermetid snail, but might have just been chunky coralline.)
Purchase list:
QCC Candy Paint Yuma Mushroom Yellow/Green Hammer Orange Ricordea Mushroom Solar Flare Zoa Aussie Pink Tip Torch Green Star Polyp (Freebie!)
Debating on the precise location of everything still, but the mushrooms will be on the sand glued to some frag rocks. I'll post again after I make a little progress.
(Zoa looked angry and closed up so I moved him to the sand.)
OP
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Today's the first day I've noticed obvious signs of coral stress. My cyphastrea is completely closed and looking upset. A number of my zoas are also closed or not completely open. My gonipora is nearly completely closed as well.
My best guess at this point is my nitrates are just too low. I tested today and I'm coming back just barely registering with a Red Sea test kit, maybe 1ppm, but looks closer to 0ppm.
In direct response to this crisis, I've removed my chaeto from the display tank. From what I've read it's the biggest nitrate consumer and if there's any there, it will take it before my corals are able.
I'm reducing skimmer time significantly. I will run it mostly during the evenings now, when my pH takes the hardest hit. I lose the benefits of a scrubber, but I'd rather have low pH than zero nitrates at this point.
I moved the torch to the top left and the hammer a bit in front of it. Hammer took the move like a champ, but the torch is struggling to acclimate. I'm going to give it another 24hr or so before deciding if it needs to be elsewhere. Could be too much light (should be around ~180-200 where I moved it, and it was sitting at around ~140-150 when I first added it to the DT two days ago.)
My best guess at this point is my nitrates are just too low. I tested today and I'm coming back just barely registering with a Red Sea test kit, maybe 1ppm, but looks closer to 0ppm.
In direct response to this crisis, I've removed my chaeto from the display tank. From what I've read it's the biggest nitrate consumer and if there's any there, it will take it before my corals are able.
I'm reducing skimmer time significantly. I will run it mostly during the evenings now, when my pH takes the hardest hit. I lose the benefits of a scrubber, but I'd rather have low pH than zero nitrates at this point.
I moved the torch to the top left and the hammer a bit in front of it. Hammer took the move like a champ, but the torch is struggling to acclimate. I'm going to give it another 24hr or so before deciding if it needs to be elsewhere. Could be too much light (should be around ~180-200 where I moved it, and it was sitting at around ~140-150 when I first added it to the DT two days ago.)
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jhuntstl
Valuable Member
How often and what are you feeding? What's your PO4?
I feed A LOT of frozen nowadays. 2-3 times a day and I feed more than the fish and coral can eat. Lately it seems to be helping to keep me in the 5-10 range. A mix of different pellets as well, but I'm more reserved with them as they spike PO4 quickly. I haven't limited my skimmer time yet. I do gravel vac detritus out each week.
Not saying this is the way, but it's what working for me atm.
Hope your coral make a quick recovery!
I feed A LOT of frozen nowadays. 2-3 times a day and I feed more than the fish and coral can eat. Lately it seems to be helping to keep me in the 5-10 range. A mix of different pellets as well, but I'm more reserved with them as they spike PO4 quickly. I haven't limited my skimmer time yet. I do gravel vac detritus out each week.
Not saying this is the way, but it's what working for me atm.
Hope your coral make a quick recovery!
OP
OP
I'm feeding half a cube of frozen mysis daily. Sometimes I swap that with half a cube of plankton, but those suckers are big and my fish can't eat much. The fish don't even eat a ton of the half cube, the mysis are mostly too big as well. My nassarius snails seem to eat whatever the fish, BTA or Duncan don't gobble up. Or it gets caught in my floss after I turn the pumps back on.
Im feeding BRS reef chili every 3 days. About 1 spoonful.
I alternate pellets and flake food daily as well, usually some in the morning and some in the evening. Fish love these. I go as long as they'll eat, about 2-3min and then there's a couple pellets left floating on the top. Some float to the bottom as well.
My PO4 has been 0 the last two weeks I've checked.
Really just seems I'm not feeding enough but I have a significant amount of hair algae. It's all over my sand bed, my asterea snail shells and on my back wall. I've read if you've got a good amount of algae, you're feeding is 'OK.' Some conflicting information here
jhuntstl
Valuable Member
Nutrients are still the biggest mystery and struggle for me. Detectable vs undetectable when you have pest algae. It's hard to tell if the excess nutrients you're adding are primarily feeding the algae or coral. All the while you're paranoid about every dino post you've ever read.
I like to see detectable levels of NO3 and PO4. I try not to worry much about the pest algaes. As long as they're not out of control, I feel like I'm doing okay with the extra nutrients I'm dumping in daily. I'll buy CUC members to deal with a pest algae if I'm concerned about it.
I like to see detectable levels of NO3 and PO4. I try not to worry much about the pest algaes. As long as they're not out of control, I feel like I'm doing okay with the extra nutrients I'm dumping in daily. I'll buy CUC members to deal with a pest algae if I'm concerned about it.
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