My Prostar Rimless 200 V2 build

[Master of Cloak]

So if you had to do it again would you get this tank because I was looking at these 200 tank or a planet aquarium but this one is way better price but from this I feel like I might just need to spend the extra money.

I also have a ProStar 200 and with the price increased on these tanks to 3150 I would definitely purchase a tank from another brand. At the original price point of 2000, they were a solid deal which of course came with some headaches like the noisy drains which I am still dealing with today. The water box 180.5 which is almost the same size is 3500. If I could go back I would've chosen one of the more reputable brands and probably would've purchased that tank instead.

 

[Funwithreefer]

This thread is a few months old but hoping to get some help. Picked up a Pro Star 150 and trying to do some changes to the plumbing. I’ve read through this entire thread and I’m still baffled on what to do to get normal 1” drain and 3/4” returns In. Was planning to run a manifold off the return and want to change out the ball valves on the drains. Has anyone come up with an adapter that can be used??

 

[Uncle99]

My Pro star came with 3 metric pipes.
I needed two metric to standard gate valve couplers to hook up 1” pvc.
Got them at Flexpvc.com

the middle one is the return, mine is 3/4”, but this one I used 1” below as well.

 

[Funwithreefer]

My Pro star came with 3 metric pipes.
I needed two metric to standard gate valve couplers to hook up 1” pvc.
Got them at Flexpvc.com

the middle one is the return, mine is 3/4”, but this one I used 1” below as well.

Thanks Uncle99. Any chance you can link to the one you used? I've already bought and returned so many pipes and adapters, I want to get it right this time. Much appreciated!

 

[Uncle99]

Over flows (I have two)
Quantity: 2
Product: 8697-032 DIN 32mm x 1 US Union COO:USA ($14.31 ea.)
Product ID: 8697-032
Options::
Item Subtotal: $28.62
LOC:: ZONE D R10 S6

Return
Quantity: 1
Product: 8697-025 DIN 25mm x 3/4 US Union COO:USA ($14.13 ea.)
Product ID: 8697-025
Options::
Item Subtotal: $14.13
LOC:: ZONE D R10 S6

All three are gate valves as well as metric to standard connections

 

[Funwithreefer]

Over flows (I have two)
Quantity: 2
Product: 8697-032 DIN 32mm x 1 US Union COO:USA ($14.31 ea.)
Product ID: 8697-032
Options::
Item Subtotal: $28.62
LOC:: ZONE D R10 S6

Return
Quantity: 1
Product: 8697-025 DIN 25mm x 3/4 US Union COO:USA ($14.13 ea.)
Product ID: 8697-025
Options::
Item Subtotal: $14.13
LOC:: ZONE D R10 S6

All three are gate valves as well as metric to standard connections

Awesome thanks so much!

 

[Uncle99]

My pleasure.
A pic of what they look like.

 

[Funwithreefer]

helpful. the products you listed were for unions. Are the gate valves just standard 1" and 3/4"? Or are the gate valves metric to us standard?

 

[Uncle99]

My response was poorly worded.
Yup, is the answer, those numbers correspond to the unions only.
Once the unions are added under your DT, two of them will accept schedule 40 PVC at 1”, or whatever standard stuff you want.
The return would accept 3/4” schedule 40, but I used a 3/4” to 1” schedule 40 adapter, so that all pipes are then 1”.
All three gate valves are standard 1”.
You don’t need one on the return, I put one there just in case there was some reason to lock off all three.
But the other 2 must have gates for fine tuning your flow.
Hope that’s clearer.

 

[stephanjupillat]

I was looking at these tanks however I need the overflow on the other side. Are you able to change the doors to the opposite side? Here's an old pic of my waterbox peninsula 3620? 3625? something like that. The return on the right wouldn't work for me and it seems every company does this! Was looking at a cade aquarium but doors can't be swapped. The other issue is I only want 36" tall stand to match the height of the kitchen island. My waterbox stand is 40" and doesn't look right. Waterbox, redsea and a few others do 38" or 40" tall cabinets. Although pro clear does that large bevel around the base of the aquarium so guess I'l be stuck seeing that. Wanted to go from kitchen island height view directly to view of sand.

Running out of options to go bigger with this tank where it is.

 

[Kodock]

I guess I can try that again.. I've done it once already before I put any sand or rocks in the tank. I used the Aqueon aquarium sealant and took my time and made sure it was good I mean really took my time so if this was a fail then I don' think I would trust it again because it was water tight for awhile and I don't know either the pressure of the water broke the seal or maybe i bumped it with my hand when switching out the siphon drain with the air vent drain possibly but if it was me bumping it then it wasn't enough that I even noticed it. It's not a small leak either.. There is sand that was sucked in on both side/corners. The only other thing I did was go up a level in the return pump power and had more flow coming into the overflow.

I took a picture to show just how much the seal failed. I can't think of anything worse other than a DT leak than seeing sand in your overflow box from blown seals. Just really disheartening.

I know this is an old thread, but I just bought a “new” ProStar 230 (manufacture date is 2020, but purchased in 2024) and noticed poor silicone around the overflow box. The guy from proclear told me it was designed that way lol.. so that it gets more water involvement or some strange explanation about waterchanges. Why would they want an overflow box that wasn’t really an overflow box?.. did you end up siliconing it closed?

Side note.. there’s also there’s support gaps on the bottom frame.. does your have this?

 

[Kodock]

I guess I can try that again.. I've done it once already before I put any sand or rocks in the tank. I used the Aqueon aquarium sealant and took my time and made sure it was good I mean really took my time so if this was a fail then I don' think I would trust it again because it was water tight for awhile and I don't know either the pressure of the water broke the seal or maybe i bumped it with my hand when switching out the siphon drain with the air vent drain possibly but if it was me bumping it then it wasn't enough that I even noticed it. It's not a small leak either.. There is sand that was sucked in on both side/corners. The only other thing I did was go up a level in the return pump power and had more flow coming into the overflow.

I took a picture to show just how much the seal failed. I can't think of anything worse other than a DT leak than seeing sand in your overflow box from blown seals. Just really disheartening.

Also, to add, this is a manufacture issue. I did a leak test on mine because I did not see really any silicone along the overflow box. Did you apply silicone? I poored water into the over flow to see and it leaked out the back.

 

[Uncle99]

Can’t really tell what I’m looking at in respect to the “gaps”

Mine is 2020. I never leak tested to box at all, just filled and it’s ran for 6 years now.

I can’t see what a small transfer of water between weir box and DT would make to the system.