Need help I’m losing fish by the hour

ASIN28

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Hey all,
I have a 32G AIO that has been set up for about 6 months now. This tank is a tank in my apartment and I have limited resources compared to how I operate my 120G back at home. Anyway, some fish were bought from a store who quarantines, others were transfers from an established 13.5 fluval that I had set up for a while. My hawkfish jumped out of the tank last week, (most likely unrelated). For the week, my clowns and royal gramma seemed to lose appetite and not come to the front for food. This week I added 2 days ago 2 emerald crabs and a lawnmower blenny not quarantined. Again I know the risks not looking to get roasted, I QT all my fish on my 120G at home just don’t have the resources here to do so. The next day my Blenny dies, and the following day out of nowhere my Royal gramma starts with very rapid breathing, turned pale and ended up dying overnight. Now today my two clownfish are doing the same thing. Breathing very rapidly and struggling to swim. I do not see any sign of anything on these fish at all in regards to velvet, etc. I did freshwater dip for 5 minutes and nothing came off.
Now my question is, I have been going through extreme case of Dino’s. I am reading online that there is a Dino algae parasite that will wipe out fish just like velvet would? Could this be what I am experiencing?
Salinity 35
Alk 8.4
PH 8.5
Calcium 420
Nitrate 0
Phosphate .1
Thank you any help would be appreciated
 

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newreef1

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Hey all,
I have a 32G AIO that has been set up for about 6 months now. This tank is a tank in my apartment and I have limited resources compared to how I operate my 120G back at home. Anyway, some fish were bought from a store who quarantines, others were transfers from an established 13.5 fluval that I had set up for a while. My hawkfish jumped out of the tank last week, (most likely unrelated). For the week, my clowns and royal gramma seemed to lose appetite and not come to the front for food. This week I added 2 days ago 2 emerald crabs and a lawnmower blenny not quarantined. Again I know the risks not looking to get roasted, I QT all my fish on my 120G at home just don’t have the resources here to do so. The next day my Blenny dies, and the following day out of nowhere my Royal gramma starts with very rapid breathing, turned pale and ended up dying overnight. Now today my two clownfish are doing the same thing. Breathing very rapidly and struggling to swim. I do not see any sign of anything on these fish at all in regards to velvet, etc. I did freshwater dip for 5 minutes and nothing came off.
Now my question is, I have been going through extreme case of Dino’s. I am reading online that there is a Dino algae parasite that will wipe out fish just like velvet would? Could this be what I am experiencing?
Salinity 35
Alk 8.4
PH 8.5
Calcium 420
Nitrate 0
Phosphate .1
Thank you any help would be appreciated
You want the pros, @vetteguy53081 and @Jay Hemdal
 

newreef1

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Hey all,
I have a 32G AIO that has been set up for about 6 months now. This tank is a tank in my apartment and I have limited resources compared to how I operate my 120G back at home. Anyway, some fish were bought from a store who quarantines, others were transfers from an established 13.5 fluval that I had set up for a while. My hawkfish jumped out of the tank last week, (most likely unrelated). For the week, my clowns and royal gramma seemed to lose appetite and not come to the front for food. This week I added 2 days ago 2 emerald crabs and a lawnmower blenny not quarantined. Again I know the risks not looking to get roasted, I QT all my fish on my 120G at home just don’t have the resources here to do so. The next day my Blenny dies, and the following day out of nowhere my Royal gramma starts with very rapid breathing, turned pale and ended up dying overnight. Now today my two clownfish are doing the same thing. Breathing very rapidly and struggling to swim. I do not see any sign of anything on these fish at all in regards to velvet, etc. I did freshwater dip for 5 minutes and nothing came off.
Now my question is, I have been going through extreme case of Dino’s. I am reading online that there is a Dino algae parasite that will wipe out fish just like velvet would? Could this be what I am experiencing?
Salinity 35
Alk 8.4
PH 8.5
Calcium 420
Nitrate 0
Phosphate .1
Thank you any help would be appreciated
I’m no pro, but I feel like a disease would take at least some time, a few days to show effects, unless velvet but that’s a significant visual sign. I think maybe it might have something to do with the beneficial bacteria and the fish load on the tank, sudden rise in ammonia could have led to the sudden quick deaths. I believe in those cases the ammonia is not detected. Did you remove any live rocks, bricks etc? See any ammonia burns on the fish? Adding some bacteria may help increase the bacteria to keep up with fish load.
 

vetteguy53081

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Hey all,
I have a 32G AIO that has been set up for about 6 months now. This tank is a tank in my apartment and I have limited resources compared to how I operate my 120G back at home. Anyway, some fish were bought from a store who quarantines, others were transfers from an established 13.5 fluval that I had set up for a while. My hawkfish jumped out of the tank last week, (most likely unrelated). For the week, my clowns and royal gramma seemed to lose appetite and not come to the front for food. This week I added 2 days ago 2 emerald crabs and a lawnmower blenny not quarantined. Again I know the risks not looking to get roasted, I QT all my fish on my 120G at home just don’t have the resources here to do so. The next day my Blenny dies, and the following day out of nowhere my Royal gramma starts with very rapid breathing, turned pale and ended up dying overnight. Now today my two clownfish are doing the same thing. Breathing very rapidly and struggling to swim. I do not see any sign of anything on these fish at all in regards to velvet, etc. I did freshwater dip for 5 minutes and nothing came off.
Now my question is, I have been going through extreme case of Dino’s. I am reading online that there is a Dino algae parasite that will wipe out fish just like velvet would? Could this be what I am experiencing?
Salinity 35
Alk 8.4
PH 8.5
Calcium 420
Nitrate 0
Phosphate .1
Thank you any help would be appreciated
Firstly, sorry to see this. There is nothing more stressful than experiencing this. With that, two reasons you will have this occur is disease or Low dissolved oxygen. the AIO is a great setup but often lacks filtration and flow and other signs MAY and I stress May be flukes from the behaviors you describe.
What filters and components are you running?
I have suspect cause being lack of filtration/oxygen but lets see what you have for flow/circulation and oxygen.
No you wont get roasted but there is the value of quarantining. Change at least 30% of water and add a pump with airstone. Walmart has these in both pet and sporting goods (for fish baits)
 

MnFish1

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Hey. So:
Now my question is, I have been going through extreme case of Dino’s. I am reading online that there is a Dino algae parasite that will wipe out fish just like velvet would? Could this be what I am experiencing?
There is a rare possibility that dinoflagellate toxins could kill fish. It could be like velvet would be. However - another issue (I think) would be far more likely
 
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ASIN28

ASIN28

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Firstly, sorry to see this. There is nothing more stressful than experiencing this. With that, two reasons you will have this occur is disease or Low dissolved oxygen. the AIO is a great setup but often lacks filtration and flow and other signs MAY and I stress May be flukes from the behaviors you describe.
What filters and components are you running?
I have suspect cause being lack of filtration/oxygen but lets see what you have for flow/circulation and oxygen.
No you wont get roasted but there is the value of quarantining. Change at least 30% of water and add a pump with airstone. Walmart has these in both pet and sporting goods (for fish baits)
I tried to attach videos but not sure if they are working. I will add the pump with the airstone now I don’t think these clowns are gonna make it the night.
I am just running with filter floss and a small UV. I do not have a protein skimmer. Hence why I have one of the main returns strongly breaking the surface of the tank and running a Nero 5 at 50%. I’m not disagreeing with you at all but prior to adding the algae blenny, these clowns have been with me since the beginning with this tank and never seemed to have oxygen issues.
Is it possible that this is being caused by toxins from this Dino algae I am going through? I’ve never heard of that in my life until 20 minutes ago when I was researching and found that to be possible?
 

vetteguy53081

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I tried to attach videos but not sure if they are working. I will add the pump with the airstone now I don’t think these clowns are gonna make it the night.
I am just running with filter floss and a small UV. I do not have a protein skimmer. Hence why I have one of the main returns strongly breaking the surface of the tank and running a Nero 5 at 50%.
Is it possible that this is being caused by toxins from this Dino algae I am going through? I’ve never heard of that in my life until 20 minutes ago when I was researching and found that to be possible?
Corals suffers from dino toxins more than fish in which toxins are Low level. This points to oxygen and I see now you have minimal source for filter based on number of fish. Ice Cap makes an ideal skimmer tat will fit your tank - Model K1-50 or K1-100
Regarding toxins, I would add a pouch of ChemiPure blue to AIO box which will reduce toxins and keep phosphate in check and polish your tank water. For Dino, its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure. No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% IF you have light dependant corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED AMINO OR ADD NOPOX which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
Doing a daily siphoning will help greatly But . . . . . Siphoning will reduce nutrients , so siphon the water into/through a filter sock and save the water and return it back to tank. Obviously clean the filter sock each time.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them
 
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ASIN28

ASIN28

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Corals suffers from dino toxins more than fish in which toxins are Low level. This points to oxygen and I see now you have minimal source for filter based on number of fish. Ice Cap makes an ideal skimmer tat will fit your tank - Model K1-50 or K1-100
Regarding toxins, I would add a pouch of ChemiPure blue to AIO box which will reduce toxins and keep phosphate in check and polish your tank water. For Dino, its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure. No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% IF you have light dependant corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED AMINO OR ADD NOPOX which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
Doing a daily siphoning will help greatly But . . . . . Siphoning will reduce nutrients , so siphon the water into/through a filter sock and save the water and return it back to tank. Obviously clean the filter sock each time.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them
Thank you very much going to do exactly as you said and go from there. And I will get that protein skimmer also. I’m gonna look into them, I have the Fiji Cube AIO 32G I’m sure that ice cap will fit
 

vetteguy53081

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Skimmer may be on sale.
Thank you very much going to do exactly as you said and go from there. And I will get that protein skimmer also. I’m gonna look into them, I have the Fiji Cube AIO 32G I’m sure that ice cap will fit
 
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Jay Hemdal

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Just out of curiousity, these fish have been in the tank for a while now, wouldn’t lack of oxygen have done this long ago?

I've seen low oxygen catch up with people in tanks, especially AIO's without a skimmer. They run "o.k." for a time, the fish may be breathing a bit fast, but that might be missed. Then, there is some change in flow and the oxygen drops lower and becomes an acute issue. Fish begin to breath really fast and may start to die.

The change in flow can be something really minor. With people running a HOB filter, it can be as simple as topping the tank up an inch higher, reducing the splashing that was helping with gas exchange. I've even seen issues where a person fed some frozen food and the oil from that "sealed off" the tank's surface, causing oxygen deprivation.

In the end, I think all tanks need an air stone or a skimmer as a "safety net".

That said, I can't rule out Amyloodinium (velvet) in this case......
 

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Corals suffers from dino toxins more than fish in which toxins are Low level. This points to oxygen and I see now you have minimal source for filter based on number of fish. Ice Cap makes an ideal skimmer tat will fit your tank - Model K1-50 or K1-100
Regarding toxins, I would add a pouch of ChemiPure blue to AIO box which will reduce toxins and keep phosphate in check and polish your tank water. For Dino, its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure. No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% IF you have light dependant corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED AMINO OR ADD NOPOX which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
Doing a daily siphoning will help greatly But . . . . . Siphoning will reduce nutrients , so siphon the water into/through a filter sock and save the water and return it back to tank. Obviously clean the filter sock each time.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them


first, youre the man, always helping people.

i would add to youre comment, the filter sock needs to be 10 microns or smaller or the little jerks will slip through youre average 150-200 micron sock.
 

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