Need suggestions on how to get rid of alage.

[Aidanwolf]

With that much algae, they are sucking up the nitrate and phosphate as it grows. You will have low levels whlith that much algae. It's like you whole tank is a refugium exporting nutrients, ya just can't take it out as easily like with chaeto

It's kind of bizarre because barely any alage gross on the glass.

 

[Aidanwolf]

Even with a good test kit (Red Sea for nitrate, Hanna ULR for phosphate) I would not be surprised with low readings. The algae (or whatever that is) is taking it up.

Anybody else thinking this might NOT be algae but chrysophytes instead? What color is it? Green, brown, red or gold?

It is green, some of it has bleached though. It does look similar.

 

[Aidanwolf]

I just ordered a Salifert nitrate kit. Should I get a phosphate one from them as well?

 

[Kzang]

It's kind of bizarre because barely any alage gross on the glass.

Because the algae on the rocks out compete the film micro algae

 

[Terry Mattson]

I do need to get an alage eater. Would the Vibrant kill the chaeto thats in the refugeum?

I use vibrant and still export cheto. I got 2 tuxedo Urchins and they help. Attractive also.

 

[Terry Mattson]

I just ordered a Salifert nitrate kit. Should I get a phosphate one from them as well?

Yes

 

[ScottB]

It is green, some of it has bleached though.

Roger that. That is actually a relief if you can believe it.

How old is tank?

If it is bleaching, then you may be gradually starving it out. If you go too aggressive in stripping the water of nutrient you can get into some trouble (dinoflagellates) but gradually and consistently managing your nutrient import/export is the safe way to. It just feels like forever.

Vibrant can accelerate things a little bit and is not too harsh.

Lastly, there is fluconazole. I have dosed it to several customer tanks (mostly against bryopsis) with no coral deaths experienced. It does require a bit more attention to exporting as the stuff dies off. Depending on the type of algae, it can go quick or gradual, but there was always improvement. It is not a long term solution just a temporary (and effective) restart opportunity.

For phosphate testing, it is really Hanna ULR checker you want. Get some extra reagents while you are at it.

 

[Terry Mattson]

Yes

Hanna ultra low range phosphate. Keep it about .03 ppm. I use a red sea for nitrate.

 

[Aidanwolf]

Roger that. That is actually a relief if you can believe it.

How old is tank?

If it is bleaching, then you may be gradually starving it out. If you go too aggressive in stripping the water of nutrient you can get into some trouble (dinoflagellates) but gradually and consistently managing your nutrient import/export is the safe way to. It just feels like forever.

Vibrant can accelerate things a little bit and is not too harsh.

Lastly, there is fluconazole. I have dosed it to several customer tanks (mostly against bryopsis) with no coral deaths experienced. It does require a bit more attention to exporting as the stuff dies off. Depending on the type of algae, it can go quick or gradual, but there was always improvement. It is not a long term solution just a temporary (and effective) restart opportunity.

For phosphate testing, it is really Hanna ULR checker you want. Get some extra reagents while you are at it.

The tank is about a year old.

 

[Aidanwolf]

Hanna ultra low range phosphate. Keep it about .03 ppm. I use a red sea for nitrate.

I would like to get hanna checkers but man fifty bucks a pop is expensive.

 

[Terry Mattson]

I would like to get hanna checkers but man fifty bucks a pop is expensive.

One you get the hanna phosphate you will be glad you did. I have to use just a little gfo to keep phosphate in check. If I keep it between. 03 and .1 my algea issue is well controlled. I have a 93 gallion system. 9 fish. And a lot lps, mushrooms, zoas, and one sps Birdsnest.... all doing well.

 

[Terry Mattson]

That's what I was thinking.

I does vibrant once a wweek per instructions as I am battling bubble algae. Chaeto continues to grow. But harvest once a week.

 

[ScottB]

The tank is about a year old.

Read up on fluconazole here on R2R. I am not generally comfortable with chemical interventions to systems -- especially ones with secret ingredients which I still don't trust. You asked for suggestions; this is one that you can research and reach your own conclusion with.

The first two times I used fluconazole, the tanks were in bad shape and had little to lose. But after those successes, I dosed a store display frag system (150G) stuffed full of SPS, LPS, zoas, everything. It had a touch of bryopsis and HAD to be remedied. No coral losses. Zero.

There are more than a few coral vendors/sponsors on R2R that regularly dose maintenance levels of fluc at each WC.

 

[Aidanwolf]

After a water change and manually removing a huge amount of alage lol.

 

[Aidanwolf]

So I got the Salifert nitrate and phosphate test kits today and they both read 0.

 

[Aidanwolf]

So I got the Salifert nitrate and phosphate test kits today and they both read 0.

I am not sure why but the green hair alage is still growing and healthy.

 

[Magellan]

Try Fluconazole, it works

 

[Magellan]

But manually export as much as you can, especially after the algae starts to die

 

[Aidanwolf]

But manually export as much as you can, especially after the algae starts to die

Yeah I need to,I just have been putting off adding chemicals to the tank hoping that it starts to clear up on it's own. I also want to see if an alage eater of some kind would be enough to get rid of the alage.

 

[Magellan]

Yeah I need to,I just have been putting off adding chemicals to the tank hoping that it starts to clear up on it's own. I also want to see if an alage eater of some kind would be enough to get rid of the alage.

A cuc is more for management of a balanced system, you need a reset button!

But in the future, turbo snails/tuxedo urchins

just follow the recommended instructions for dosing Fluc, your corals/fish will be just fine.