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They are at 0.Can't believe no one has any ideas on this stuff.
But, I can't really tell what you have there.
Do you have a TDS reading from the water your using?
There are a couple of living corals still glued to the rock, so I can't take out the rocks. With the amount of alage there is the h202 method good enough? I usually am able to remove most of it by scrubbing the rocks but it just comes back within a week. Which is weird because my glass is always clean.Have you tried h2o2? If you have rocks you can remove, take them out, scrub off as much as you can, then let sit in h2o2 for a bit to kill off the remaining algae. If you can’t remove the rocks, put it in a syringe (work off the 1ml/gal ratio), turn off all flow, and squirt it right on the algae. You’ll see it start to bubble almost immediately. Turn the pumps back on after 10 mins or so. You’ll see the algae start turning white and dying off. Remove as much from the tank as you can to keep nutrients from rising as the algae dies off.
I do need to get an alage eater. Would the Vibrant kill the chaeto thats in the refugeum?I recommend :
Reduce white lights for about 5 days and try liquid Vibrant. I have 100% luck with Vibrant. Lawnmower or arc eye blenny also helpful
Alright I will look into that.I did it with the syringe and it worked for me. A few corals closed for about an hour or so, but opened back up just fine.
Vibrant Can affect chaeto. I would place Chaeto in a bucket temporarily OR add iron to chaetoI do need to get an alage eater. Would the Vibrant kill the chaeto thats in the refugeum?
I'am using Api test kits for phosphates and nitrates, that's why I said it was close to 0 not exactly 0.What test kits are you using? With that much algae, it has to have something to be feeding on. I find it odd that your parameters are all at zero. Maybe get it tested at your LFS or get a new test get to get a second opinion?
Clean up crews or fish might help, but if you don't figure out the underlying cause, it will keep coming back.
Yeah, I don't know which kits are the "best", it was just a thought. It is just so strange to me that algae would be that bad with those parameters. I know the chemical fixes always sound like the easy way out but I think relying on them causes a lot of frustration when problems keep happening.I'am using Api test kits for phosphates and nitrates, that's why I said it was close to 0 not exactly 0.
If youre using API kits, I would suggest to take a water sample to trusted LFS and have them test your water and verify the accuracy of your test readings.Yeah, I don't know which kits are the "best", it was just a thought. It is just so strange to me that algae would be that bad with those parameters. I know the chemical fixes always sound like the easy way out but I think relying on them causes a lot of frustration when problems keep happening.
I have Salifert test kits for everything but nitrates and phosphates.The closest LFS that is 30 minuets away only has Api kits lol. Is the Api test kits so bad that they can't give an close enough result?If youre using API kits, I would suggest to take a water sample to trusted LFS and have them test your water and verify the accuracy of your test readings.
Vibrant 100% kills chaetoI do need to get an alage eater. Would the Vibrant kill the chaeto thats in the refugeum?
With that much algae, they are sucking up the nitrate and phosphate as it grows. You will have low levels whlith that much algae. It's like you whole tank is a refugium exporting nutrients, ya just can't take it out as easily like with chaetoI'am using Api test kits for phosphates and nitrates, that's why I said it was close to 0 not exactly 0.
That's what I was thinking.Vibrant 100% kills chaeto