New Build - DIY heavy...New FTS!

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Marc.The.Shark

Marc.The.Shark

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Very nice setup!
Thank you!

How are you liking your SCWD? I am thinking of using one my self..
I have been using SCWD's for a long time to keep powerheads out of the display. They work well for me. I use the 3/4" and have had no issues, although I've read of a bunch of failures with the 1" version for some reason, even tho it can be taken apart for cleaning. I keep a spare & swap out about every 6 months & soak the one I took out. I've went as long as a year without cleaning, but 6 months seems to work well. Be advised that they will cut into your return flow gph quite a bit, to the tune of like 40% or something like that! I also do the mod where you drill out the input/outputs some to help minimize this and use an oversized pump. I'll keep using them, cheap way to create random flow! Any more questions, let me know
 

Clayton Jessup

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Thank you very much on the input , it's really making me consider getting one. Will it even reduce the output of your return pump even if you drill into your aquarium , vs going over the rim of your tank like you did ? Due to the fact that you used the black output pipes . How much strong of a pump would you recommend on ? If I am planing to run a SCWD.
 
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Marc.The.Shark

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Thank you very much on the input , it's really making me consider getting one. Will it even reduce the output of your return pump even if you drill into your aquarium , vs going over the rim of your tank like you did ? Due to the fact that you used the black output pipes . How much strong of a pump would you recommend on ? If I am planing to run a SCWD.

This is a rough estimate, doesn't take into account return plumbing. And yes, my setup will decrease more because of over the rim returns. The harder you push it, the better it is, but again these #'s were before any plumbing, just measuring output from device itself. This was an independent test done around 2005 or so. Search SCWD mod & drill out the input/returns, will make it a little better & super easy to do.

Flow into SCWD SCWD Output Efficiency Switching Duration
In. Out. Efficiency
150 gph 90 gph 60% 22 seconds
180 gph 120 gph 65% 16 seconds
240 gph 180 gph 75% 12 seconds
270 gph 210 gph 80% 10 seconds
330 gph 240 gph 80% 9 seconds
400 gph 360 gph 90% 7 seconds
600 gph 540 gph 90% 5 seconds
720 gph 660 gph 90% 4 seconds

I'm running a Jebao DCT 8000 into mine at 90% & it switches about every 5-6 seconds. I have good flow in my shallow tank without my Mp10. Have to point the returns up or I get bare spots
 

Clayton Jessup

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Ok thank you very much. I am actually thinking when I go to reef I am considering a Ecotech Vectra M1 as my return pump. Do you think that would be way to much for a 3/4in SCWD to handle? Remember that the pump can be fully controlled and calibrated to the specific aquarium. Hints that's why I am considering the RP. The tank I am going to be using is a ADA 75p which is about 30in x 18in x 18in so a total of about 37g . So really not to much bigger then your tank its self. If I run dual returns or two drilled point were the SCWD will enter my aquarium do you think I can get away with no circulation pumps? like your self?
 
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The M1 is 2,000 gph which is what my DCT-8000 puts out. Plenty of power. My returns are not true 1/2" returns either, i have 1" coming off the pump to 3/4" into the SCWD, then 3/4" soft tubing from the SCWD outputs up to the outside bottom of the hard return piping which is CPVC. I wanted a smaller footprint in the tank. True 1/2" PVC would allow even more flow, but I have plenty right now. I was originally going to add 2 more returns in the middle on either side of the drains & tested it that way, but really didnt need them, so I plumbed without. I'm pushing water across the tank the way i have it now & losing a lot of efficiency on my pump. But thats why i wanted a DC, lower power consumption. My tank is dead silent, the SCWD doesnt make any noise.
 

Clayton Jessup

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Ok then you are really making me consider doing this. I am planing to have my returns on the side like your self through bulk heads I was thinking 3/4in return lines specially if I run a m1. I am thinking I am going to have them both come into my back panel . I will have one lower then the other. So about one 8in -10in from the bottom then Ill have another 1 about 2.5in from the top of the tank. this way I provide two different levels of flow through out the tank. I ll be using hard plumbing as well , and of course ill be running a check valve on the system .. Do you think that would be a good solid set up ?
 
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Well, depends what you're trying to accomplish. I wouldnt rely on a check valve. i have a good one, but in the event that it fails (and it will), my sump will hadle the siphon from the returns & not flood. If you're going to have a return that low, make sure you have a big enuf sump to handle the extra 1/2 tank of water. Also, i'm going with a higher flow sump, no macro algae this time, been there done that. Its messy. Some people are of the school of thinking that dwell time for macro in a sump is important, meaning lower flow to export nutrients. Not sure if I was ever a believer in that school of thought tho. Same thing with skimmer, people say you need slow flow for the skimmer to filter the water. I dont beleive that either. The skimmer will pull out what its gonna pull out in one pass or 100 from the display. With 3/4 returns & that pump, you'll have a ton of flow tho.
 

Clayton Jessup

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I see what you mean about the back siphon , I am planning on using a Wye check valve from BRS, so I think that should be a proper check valve for the set up. Do you think I should so with the 1 inch SCWD , or stay with the 3/4in model.. ?
 
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Yeah, i have a Georg Fischer Wye check valve, still wouldnt trust it 100%. I think he actual holes on the 3/4 SCWD are like 5/8 or something. You'd have to look it up. I drilled mine out a little larger. I'd work out a plan, then start a thread with what you plan to do & solicit other opinions. There are a lot of very knowledgeable people on here that can critique your plan and offer other opinions, don't just trust mine.
 

NHreefguy

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This tank looks awesome! I love clean looking tanks. What does scwd stand for?
 
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Marc.The.Shark

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OK , do you have any pictures of the process i would like to see if you do?
No, you'll have to google it. That's how I found it, pics and all.

Wow, thats amazing! Love the new tank!
Thank you very much!

Very nice build, really liking the aquascaping with the 3 bommies.
Thanks! Yeah, I like this look, kinda open & nothing going on the sand in this tank. More swimming/negative space.

This tank looks awesome! I love clean looking tanks. What does scwd stand for?
Thanks. "SCWD" stands for Switching Current Water Director.
 
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Okay, been about a week. Put the BioSpira in & have been dosing ammonia. Its processing the 2ppm down to zero in 24hrs for the last couple days. Also some hints of diatoms starting on the sandbed, so things are moving right along. Also connected my Break Out Box and just got this in. For $12 it'll let me control high humidity thru my Apex & turn on the cabinet fans. I have them oscillating on for 10mins every hour, but can back that off now.


Also ordered some of these magnetic acrylic frag holders to mount some float switches to.





This one is in my ATO container to shut off if level gets low. Need to move it down a little.


Not much else going on except fired the skimmer up to try & get that dialed/broken in.
 

Chads_Coral_Collection

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I'm looking to build something similar. I see you didn't do a standard overflow and just used bulkheads. I like that. It seems much easier for me to do.

How is the sound and performance?
 

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