New here in need of a next steps solution

[Harleys and tanks]

Hey all! Love this site! Use it and love reading all the different thoughts.

So I will start with my build and parameters then explain where I am at.
4 month + 40 Gal Breeder. Seapora Balance PRO salt w/RODI. 30-40 LBS Dry rock and Arg sand. Eheim Canister filter. Eheim Surface skimmer. Glass top with Fluval reef 4.0 Light.

Stock List:
4 Red Leg Hermit
6 Nessarious Snails
2 Conch
2 Cleaner Shrimp
1 Pistol Shrimp
1 YWG
1 Wyoming Clown (my fave guy)
1 Osc Clown
1 Blue/Green Chromis
3 Yellow Tail Damsels
2 Fire Fish


Para: (all have been dead on stable since day one besides amm,nitrite, nitrate during cycle)
SG - 1.024
PH - 7.9 (Has declined slightly)
Alk - 3.5ish (Has Declined slightly)
Amm - 0
Nitrite - 1-1.5ppm (new spike)
Nitrate - ? due to nitrite spike the nitrates could be false
Phos - .5
Cal - 400
Mag - 1320
Diatom (ugly stage) has come and gone now, still a small amount but with light adjustment to zoas needs I don't have much coming up.

Nothing has been dosed besides ammonia at start and BB and 1 small dose of reef roids.
Here lies my issue.... I went through the cycle as normal and seen all the spikes and ended with nitrates around 15ppm, through water changes i was around 10ppm and added some mollies (FW to SW converted) in order to "test the cycle" and all looked great after a few weeks so I started to slowly add a small CUC and slowly started adding my fish max 3 at a time. The mollies were bullies and crap factories so my LFS happily took them back for me. 2 weeks ago I started to see a small amount of nitrites come back but just thought it was the BB catching up as we went along. A week ago I added a Kenya frag, Zoa frag with a good amount of small polyps and a Branching GSP frag. So far everyone and everything has THRIVED instantly when added to DT and shown no signs of stress or anything. The zoas started to open right away and a couple of heads that didnt look so great from start have started to come back, Kenya was drooped for 24 hours but now normal, GSP took longest since the dip and is now just finally starting to peek some of the tips out.

So now I have this Nitrite spike for 2 weeks + that is sitting around 1.5-2ppm and I couldn't figure out why, so I have read thought up and down and spoke to my LFS who knows my build from the beginning and we have decided I have been over feeding.... like without a doubt prob 2X + the required amount.

Do I: (I have added Aquavitro Seed yesterday)
- Just dial back the feeding drastically for a few days then back up to a proper level
- Open my canister and check if the outside of basket etc could use a small clean (I won't pull basket apart at this point)
- Dose anything else... including PH/ Alk
- try no and Ph remover (to lower nutrients)
- Get a chunk of Live Rock... please note that the live rock here is not from ocean etc, it's LFS cycled rock with GHA and I don't know if much more biodiversity than that
- Drive to city and buy copepods for the tank (no sump...)
- Do extra water changes above the 30% weekly I do already
- I have also been debating a protein skimmer and/or a small HOB filter for carbon & floss... been really looking at the Coralife Powerfilter with skimmer in one as the filter really is a skimmer, carbon, floss and phos remover pad in one.
NOTE: I won't get a heavy skimmer as I don't want anything that will OVER SKIM or strip the tank of nutrients... I would like to try and keep it as stable as possible with WC, filtration and as little intervention as I can... I would love it to be as natural as I can (I do know that the ocean provides things I can't)

Any thoughts or advice would be great... I know theres 1000s of opinions, ideas and ways to do things. I listen to it all and take the advice that sounds most reasonable and what suits my tank best.

 

[Euphyllia97]

I’m gonna give you my advice. Don’t do anything. If ammonia is 0 and you see nitrates just ignore the nitrite. I don’t know why people in saltwater are freaking out over nitrite as it requires huge levels to be toxic to marine fish.

It is just a sign that your tank still needs to develop some nitrite consuming bacteria. Or even a testing error after 4 months.

I can see you have prepared and read a lot about this hobby and its techniques before starting. Well done to you There is a lot of information around, but sometimes it is easier to keep it simple and stupid.

Just read some articles about nitrite in marine fish and the differences with freshwater

 

[Harleys and tanks]

I’m gonna give you my advice. Don’t do anything. If ammonia is 0 and you see nitrates just ignore the nitrite. I don’t know why people in saltwater are freaking out over nitrite as it requires huge levels to be toxic to marine fish.

It is just a sign that your tank still needs to develop some nitrite consuming bacteria. Or even a testing error after 4 months.

I can see you have prepared and read a lot about this hobby and its techniques before starting. Well done to you There is a lot of information around, but sometimes it is easier to keep it simple and stupid.

Just read some articles about nitrite in marine fish and the differences with freshwater

Thank you, yes I have done a lot of research and continue to do so daily. When I have a hobby... I am always fully into it. Plus I never want to harm any form of life so I want to make sure I am always making sound decisions and to also know when I should actually chase something.

I knew Nitrites were not an issue to Marine life and as I said before... things are thriving, growing, molting and doing what they do in life daily. So I don't have any concern besides the fact that my nitrites were hanging there and don't know if I am getting accurate readings. But if i am "reading the water", I would say nitrates are low due to the fact that I don't have very much brown algae growth since the ugly stages and no GHA etc. So my algae are staying fairly in check and not going the opposite way if I had ZERO nutrients in the water and get dinos etc.

Since yours is the only response I got.... I will just hold off and do nothing besides my weekly water changes and continue to monitor what the tank is telling me and do my regular water testing as usual and see where things go. If I get a death... then we will have to go deeper into it.

Thanks!

 

[JTP424]

What are you using to test your parameters?

 

[JoshSmith]

That Alk seems awfully low with Ca and Mg being right around target.

 

[Harleys and tanks]

What are you using to test your parameters?

I have the API master kit, Safilert PHOS CAL and MAG as well as the Seachem master kit which does the same ones as API but has ALK.

 

[Harleys and tanks]

That Alk seems awfully low with Ca and Mg being right around target.

I agree.... I had 4.5 before and wondered why it has lowered. As well the PH has dropped a couple points, This is sorta why I was wondering if something seems off or maybe just the addition of inhabitants in time lowered a few things... But still don't understand the NItrite come back and pause nor how to accurately know my Nitrates now.

I have been just continuing to watch params and do my 30% weekly changes so I don't do any major changes.

One thing I did actually do was change the water floss in my canister as it seemed a bit slimy.

 

[JoshSmith]

That Alk seems awfully low with Ca and Mg being right around target.

I agree.... I had 4.5 before and wondered why it has lowered. As well the PH has dropped a couple points, This is sorta why I was wondering if something seems off or maybe just the addition of inhabitants in time lowered a few things... But still don't understand the NItrite come back and pause nor how to accurately know my Nitrates now.

I have been just continuing to watch params and do my 30% weekly changes so I don't do any major changes.

One thing I did actually do was change the water floss in my canister as it seemed a bit slimy.

What salt are you using? If you’re doing water changes and you have relatively little in the tank, your alk shouldn’t be anywhere near that low.

If you have a LFS that can test your alk, I would try that. I don’t know that I’d trust your current tests at that reading. Could always be wrong but seems awfully strange.

 

[JTP424]

API is good to get a tank up and running (IMO). I'd invest in other testing kits as problems arise etc.
Did swapping the floss improve anything? I feel like you may need to swap your floss more being in a canister?

 

[JoshSmith]

I agree on the test kits. I'd also recommend changing the filter floss out AT LEAST weekly. I change mine multiple times a week in my tanks (albeit not in canisters).

 

[Harleys and tanks]

What salt are you using? If you’re doing water changes and you have relatively little in the tank, your alk shouldn’t be anywhere near that low.

If you have a LFS that can test your alk, I would try that. I don’t know that I’d trust your current tests at that reading. Could always be wrong but seems awfully strange.

I am still using Seachem Balance PRO salt. Salt levels have remained on the spot this whole time. But original ALK was with maybe 0 to 2 fish right after cycle ended. The 3.5 is with all those I have in there now and the high feeding. Also note that 3.5 is m/l not the ppm.. the conversion would be 9 ppm at the beginning and 7 ppm now.... sorry I don't think I explained that before. The Seachem tests use a different chart for some reason.

 

[Harleys and tanks]

API is good to get a tank up and running (IMO). I'd invest in other testing kits as problems arise etc.
Did swapping the floss improve anything? I feel like you may need to swap your floss more being in a canister?

I agree on the test kits which is why I use the API for PH double check com[pared to my Seachem and a quick Nitrite test every other day in order to see that it's reading high still and then double check that reading once a week with the seachem version just to be sure it's fairly accurate. For ALK, one a week Nitrite and PH double checking I use Seachem. Phos, Mag and Cal I use Safilert kits and continuing to buy the better kits as I go along.

I bought the API before I really got into the Salt stuff. Then I was so frustrated with the ammonia and nitrite readings on the API kit for my freshwater tank because trying to really tell if your sitting at .5 or 2 is almost a guess in itself. So I got the Seachem Marine for the better ammonia tests and it also tests total as well as FREE ammonia (the bad one) separately to ensure even if I did get a spike that my free ammonia was in check while I added the fish and inverts. And now I am collecting the Safilert kits... which I would say are ok, I am not a fan of the phos test to be honest as it is similar to the API stuff where 0.001 and .5 are nearly identical.

I know of the Hannas but, my issues or thoughts are that the main key and or goal isn't to constantly CHASE a specific number as long as you are within a safe range and the numbers are remaining consistent I will be good. I am sure all the test kits (and I have read some good knowledge on some Hannas too) have some form of variance to the accuracy whether it be how a tiny scoop is measured and ensured the same amount of reagent or size of the drop or how much of the reagent comes out of the packet you pour in or whatever...

 

[Harleys and tanks]

I agree on the test kits. I'd also recommend changing the filter floss out AT LEAST weekly. I change mine multiple times a week in my tanks (albeit not in canisters).

Yes I agree with the floss... to be honest it was my mistake as I gapped on the fact that the original stacking it came with, came with floss to begin with.

My freshwater HOB needs changing almost daily to every other day. (the floss is the mat type and can clog up quick)

I will make sure I get at the floss during my weekly water changes and if needed more often... I will do so.

 

[JTP424]

I agree on the test kits which is why I use the API for PH double check com[pared to my Seachem and a quick Nitrite test every other day in order to see that it's reading high still and then double check that reading once a week with the seachem version just to be sure it's fairly accurate. For ALK, one a week Nitrite and PH double checking I use Seachem. Phos, Mag and Cal I use Safilert kits and continuing to buy the better kits as I go along.

I bought the API before I really got into the Salt stuff. Then I was so frustrated with the ammonia and nitrite readings on the API kit for my freshwater tank because trying to really tell if your sitting at .5 or 2 is almost a guess in itself. So I got the Seachem Marine for the better ammonia tests and it also tests total as well as FREE ammonia (the bad one) separately to ensure even if I did get a spike that my free ammonia was in check while I added the fish and inverts. And now I am collecting the Safilert kits... which I would say are ok, I am not a fan of the phos test to be honest as it is similar to the API stuff where 0.001 and .5 are nearly identical.

I know of the Hannas but, my issues or thoughts are that the main key and or goal isn't to constantly CHASE a specific number as long as you are within a safe range and the numbers are remaining consistent I will be good. I am sure all the test kits (and I have read some good knowledge on some Hannas too) have some form of variance to the accuracy whether it be how a tiny scoop is measured and ensured the same amount of reagent or size of the drop or how much of the reagent comes out of the packet you pour in or whatever...

Makes complete sense! No judgement or anything like that so sorry if it came across that way!
You're correct in chasing numbers isn't always the best direction, simply trying to narrow down potential areas of issues.

Apologies as I do not have any experience in the Seachem marine, nor am I able to find any info on the forum.
Salifert is good for what you're using.

I'd stick with your floss swap out plan and let us know how that goes!
Following along.

 

[JoshSmith]

The alk makes much more sense with that reading haha. Id just keep up with regular water changes and changing floss/other media as needed. It's likely one of those "it'll sort itself out in time" situations and trying tot hrow a bunch of stuff at it could make other things go wacky.

 

[BryanM]

@Harleys and tanks

Are you doing regular water changes? If so, what percentage and how often? I would expect your alk to stay around 9 if you're doing appropriate water changes.

If you are not (which is fine, I don't do them), then you must dose something to maintain alk, and you should be dosing things to maintain trace elements as well.

 

[Harleys and tanks]

@Harleys and tanks

Are you doing regular water changes? If so, what percentage and how often? I would expect your alk to stay around 9 if you're doing appropriate water changes.

If you are not (which is fine, I don't do them), then you must dose something to maintain alk, and you should be dosing things to maintain trace elements as well.

Yes i do 30 percent weekly. So the conversion from 3.5 meq/l to ppm would be 7. Originally it was at 9. Which is why i wondered why it dropped.

I have dosed seachem builder to help balance out the alk and ph.

 

[Harleys and tanks]

The alk makes much more sense with that reading haha. Id just keep up with regular water changes and changing floss/other media as needed. It's likely one of those "it'll sort itself out in time" situations and trying tot hrow a bunch of stuff at it could make other things go wacky.

Thanks i agree