New LED questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Big-Ken
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users Tagged users None

Big-Ken

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 16, 2015
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I just upgraded from a 36 watt LED to a 120 watt Ocean Revive LED and i currently only have it set to 25% white/color and 35% blues so i dont nuke everything in the tank, my question is how long do i leave it at this level before turning it up a little??

Also i just got a bunch of new corals should i just leave them in the sand till i have the lights turned up then start moving them up into the rocks?? Or can i start moving them up now??

The new corals are some zoas, branching montipora sp., and a toadstool

Also on the topic on the toadstool how long do they take to open up?? All the other corals opened up after being in the tank for a couple hours but this toadstool still hasnt 3 days later but it is all dimply like the polyps are about to come out
 
I just upgraded from a 36 watt LED to a 120 watt Ocean Revive LED and i currently only have it set to 25% white/color and 35% blues so i dont nuke everything in the tank, my question is how long do i leave it at this level before turning it up a little??

Also i just got a bunch of new corals should i just leave them in the sand till i have the lights turned up then start moving them up into the rocks?? Or can i start moving them up now??

The new corals are some zoas, branching montipora sp., and a toadstool

Also on the topic on the toadstool how long do they take to open up?? All the other corals opened up after being in the tank for a couple hours but this toadstool still hasnt 3 days later but it is all dimply like the polyps are about to come out

Not all LEDs are equal.

Some 120 watt LED Fixtures are barely on PAR with a 175 watt MH. Others that use better LEDs,heatsinks, drivers and optics are much better sometimes over twice as bright. A few domestic fixtures and some DIY Kits hit the 400 watt MH equivalency.

Use a PAR Meter as its reckless to follow someones percentages without knowing the brightness the corals were previously used to.

Bill
 
^^True that not all are created equal.. Ocean revives are middle of the road at most. With that said, your par value at about 3" is about 460 with the t247 so don't underestimate them! Per Watt leds spank halides, as to why you will never need a 400w led [emoji14] I own both Kessils(display) and 250w halide(frag) .. When moving coral between tanks I have to crank my leds way down to not bleach them. Back to your? I would start upping blue by 5% a day and white 5% every 5 days until color and intensity you desire is reached. A few of my buddies run those or systems and love em!!
 
Never Need A 400 Watt Halide :squigglemouth: ???

Yes Kessils like Radions can replace a 250 watt MH

I like to see 200 PAR on my sand bed and my tank is 30" Deep... Only a 400 watt MH equivalent can do this.

My Carpet Anemones appreciate the extra light. And SPS develop awesome pigments closer to the top to reflect high intensity light.

Acclimate...Acclimate...Acclimate


Bill
 

TOP 10 Trending Threads

WHEN PLANNING CORAL PLACEMENT, WHAT USUALLY WINS? THE FUTURE COLONY, OR THE NEXT FRAG?

  • I leave plenty of open space for large future colonies

    Votes: 3 25.0%
  • I plan for growth...but occasionally squeeze coral into tight spaces

    Votes: 5 41.7%
  • I try to balance future growth with variety now

    Votes: 4 33.3%
  • I fit in as many frags as I reasonably can

    Votes: 2 16.7%
  • One more frag always wins! Future me can solve the problem...

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • It depends on the coral and how quickly it grows

    Votes: 1 8.3%
  • I squeeze 'em in! Survival of the fittest, baby!!

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • I’m already out of room, so apparently we know my answer...

    Votes: 0 0.0%
Back
Top
Home
Post thread…
Market
What's new