New QT for invert / coral suggestions ??

NancyFish

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If I add inverts then add corals, does it reset the QT? What’s the best way to prep and run this, these would be our first corals. I figured we could get a bunch of cheap ones at the upcoming expo in 3 weeks. Maybe cycle the QT til then? Any other tips? Not excited about inverts but seem essential.

We have a small 10g fish qt that just finished copper with two clowns and a 65g display that's a little behind since I changed the build. This hinking of getting a Fluval or some aio to start a coral / invert tank that has most accessories. Was told supposedly the cheap kit light would be enough during that period.

Impatient me doesn’t want to, but I like the idea of longevity and less hitchhikers.
 

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If you are quarantining for disease, then every addition resets the qt timeline. If if is for hitchikers, then yes but for things that may take time to show up.
 
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NancyFish

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If you are quarantining for disease, then every addition resets the qt timeline. If if is for hitchikers, then yes but for things that may take time to show up.
How important is a quality light on a coral QT? Like do you think we can get away with a Fluval aio plus it’s light.. or better off just getting a quality light since they have to sit in there for 2-3 months (if we followed the full period).
 

Uncle99

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QT corals is a difficult task if your not set up to do that. Your likely to cause them grief IMM.

While I do dip corals, and inspect them carefully, in the DT they go.

Inverts are not mandatory at all and in the start, may cause more stuff than they consume.
 
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NancyFish

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QT corals is a difficult task if your not set up to do that. Your likely to cause them grief IMM.

While I do dip corals, and inspect them carefully, in the DT they go.

Inverts are not mandatory at all and in the start, may cause more stuff than they consume.
so you think they’d strive better going straight into the display and skipping the QT? We have a fish QT and our display will be new. But I wanted to get a variety at the upcoming reefaplazooa to try our hand with.

I’ve been on the fence for the last few weeks between just dipping or setting up a QT.
 

Uncle99

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I think many corals will perish in a new tank.

Corals require a mature biodiversity and rock solid chemistry, or they just melt away.

But I have never once QTd any coral ever. I do a dip, and inspect carefully with a 5-10x magnifying glass, I remove the plug for Stoney corals, but other than that, in they go.

Is there some risk? Sure, always risk in this hobby. But the risk IMM is quite small.

Fish are different. They can easily carry disease.

I have seen a ton of corals just go poof in QT or early systems.

I wait until the time is right.
 

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How important is a quality light on a coral QT? Like do you think we can get away with a Fluval aio plus it’s light.. or better off just getting a quality light since they have to sit in there for 2-3 months (if we followed the full period).

The fluval 13.5 aio is fine unless you need some intense par values. I used that light for QT-ing a few corals. Another option would be the noopsyche mini on a 10 or so gallon tank.
 
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NancyFish

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The fluval 13.5 aio is fine unless you need some intense par values. I used that light for QT-ing a few corals. Another option would be the noopsyche mini on a 10 or so gallon tank.
Do you follow a QT process, many forums seem quite split on its merits for coral.
 
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NancyFish

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I think many corals will perish in a new tank.

Corals require a mature biodiversity and rock solid chemistry, or they just melt away.

But I have never once QTd any coral ever. I do a dip, and inspect carefully with a 5-10x magnifying glass, I remove the plug for Stoney corals, but other than that, in they go.

Is there some risk? Sure, always risk in this hobby. But the risk IMM is quite small.

Fish are different. They can easily carry disease.

I have seen a ton of corals just go poof in QT or early systems.

I wait until the time is right.
Waiting was my original plan but then when I heard some people follow the 76 day rule in sterile tanks it made me question why they can thrive when it’s said to wait contradicting that. Seems on the threads a lot of people seem torn on the process. Which is why I was thinking maybe try a good batch of cheap variety coral frags and see what happens. Our lfs are usually lacking, so the expo seems like a good opportunity minus the poor timing.
 

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I use the fluval but I have a ai prime 16 on it and a eggcrate cover on it. plus an in tank uv works well
 

NeedAReef

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What’s your take on having a coral QT vs just dipping? Or what is your process?
I dip with coral rx. then I put them in for observation in the qt. the fish get 4-6 weeks for observation, I do not use treatments on them. I get my fish from 1 lfs only and they get real healthy stuff.
 
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NancyFish

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I dip with coral rx. then I put them in for observation in the qt. the fish get 4-6 weeks for observation, I do not use treatments on them. I get my fish from 1 lfs only and they get real healthy stuff.
Any tips for a new QT, starting with seeded bacteria? Like maybe dosing the tank or using a better quality light to match the display? It seems like alot of people are torn on that process
 

NeedAReef

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I do my water change INTO the qt.
so I take out a 5 gal out of the qt, then I put a powerhead with a hose in my main display, and pump from the display into the qt (they are next to one another) this way the water in the qt closely matches the dt for less stress in the long run (or so I imagine anyhow) then I add the new water to the display tank. I do this regardless if anything is in the qt or not. I have a small 6 inch by 1.5 inch branch rock I leave in the qt for any fish to use for hiding. there is a gramma in there now ben there 2 weeks and all is well. it will be in there at least 2 more weeks to be sure it is eating and doing well, then will be acclimated to the big tank.
 

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Waiting was my original plan but then when I heard some people follow the 76 day rule in sterile tanks it made me question why they can thrive when it’s said to wait contradicting that. Seems on the threads a lot of people seem torn on the process. Which is why I was thinking maybe try a good batch of cheap variety coral frags and see what happens. Our lfs are usually lacking, so the expo seems like a good opportunity minus the poor timing.
The 76 day rule applies to a fallow period for a fish infected tank and 76 is just a number of days that there can be no fish in the DT to end an infection cycle. Those days are likely a safe number in general terms.

I’ve never once kept a fish in QT beyond 30 days. Depending on the fish, how it was acquired, and any special needs, it can be 14 days, or in rare cases like a mandarin, straight to DT.

I do not use any medication, unless there is a reason to do so.

If your not adverse to potential losses, you can add corals day 1.

Be be assured, the algae’s and bacteria’s required for long term success will not be present in a early system.
 
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DO YOU USE A PAR METER WHEN PLACING NEW CORAL IN YOUR TANK?

  • Yes! I think it's important for the longterm health/growth of my coral.

    Votes: 5 7.1%
  • Yes, but I don't find that it is necessary all the time.

    Votes: 16 22.9%
  • Not currently, but I would like to.

    Votes: 31 44.3%
  • No. I don't measure PAR and my corals are still healthy/growing.

    Votes: 14 20.0%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 4 5.7%
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