New Tank "Uglies"

[PaulPerger]

I am going to be adding water to my first SW tank very soon and I have heard many, many people talk about the "New Tank Uglies". I also read all the time that we should QT so as to not add things to our tanks we don't want, and that nothing gets into our tanks without us introducing those things to our tanks (i.e. Coraline Algae)... Which leads me to a few questions...

1. From where do the various "uglies" originate if they haven't been introduced to the tank previously? (i.e. Dinos, brown algae, etc.)
   
2. We have identified all sorts of ways to combat the "uglies" and they eventually go away, so is there any way to just avoid them altogether?
3. Are there any other real benefits to going through the "uglies" stage other than that they are a good indicator that we are heading in a good direction?

 

[brandon429]

anything you allow to amass in your tank constitutes the entrants into every wrecked algae tank thread on the web. We were once told to allow happenstance to put whatever may occur in our tanks, and then slowly dose through the water, or worse, just wait to see what happens.

in that variation myriad tanks have been lost. We make 20+ page threads on restoring wrecked tanks for quick searching, and allowing the uglies is the cause of nearly every entrant, they're the tanks that didn't happen to comply with the recommended water testing, reaction, and waiting offers found in so many books and threads and articles.

We should arrange a new tank where the rocks, and sand, is accessible for cleaning at any need; we fill it in later, as it matures, and access is less important for the hand guiding phase.

The second greatest cause of entries into wrecked tank threads: I cant fix the algae down low, the rocks are stacked too thick and the corals have locked everything into place. Ill have to do something through the water (variation happens then, nothing certain)

the certain reefers have assembled rock bommies, or easily parted out stacks, so that they can simply be lifted out and cheat cleaned if needed. Reefing isn't about setting things in a tank and seeing what happens, and restarting as needed, its about certainly growing coral without loss and if you'll never accept uglies I can promise that w occur barring any hardware failure or user error. Biologically, its the most sound reefing method there is, to hand guide early and be busy early, vs hands off, and allowing happenstance to run the tank. the tradeoff is manual labor to ensure it.
B

 

[PaulPerger]

anything you allow to amass in your tank constitutes the entrants into every wrecked algae tank thread on the web. We were once told to allow happenstance to put whatever may occur in our tanks, and then slowly dose through the water, or worse, just wait to see what happens.

in that variation myriad tanks have been lost. We make 20+ page threads on restoring wrecked tanks for quick searching, and allowing the uglies is the cause of nearly every entrant, they're the tanks that didn't happen to comply with the recommended water testing, reaction, and waiting offers found in so many books and threads and articles.

We should arrange a new tank where the rocks, and sand, is accessible for cleaning at any need; we fill it in later, as it matures, and access is less important for the hand guiding phase.

The second greatest cause of entries into wrecked tank threads: I cant fix the algae down low, the rocks are stacked too thick and the corals have locked everything into place. Ill have to do something through the water (variation happens then, nothing certain)

the certain reefers have assembled rock bommies, or easily parted out stacks, so that they can simply be lifted out and cheat cleaned if needed. Reefing isn't about setting things in a tank and seeing what happens, and restarting as needed, its about certainly growing coral without loss and if you'll never accept uglies I can promise that w occur barring any hardware failure or user error. Biologically, its the most sound reefing method there is, to hand guide early and be busy early, vs hands off, and allowing happenstance to run the tank
B

I understand... My question though is where do these "uglies" come from if they happen before anything is introduced into the tank?

From what I've read, the "uglies" stage is basically part of the cycling process with a SW tank. I'm trying to identify how these "uglies" get introduced into our tanks. I have used Ammonia to cycle all of the FW tanks I have built and I intend to do the same with this SW tank, so other than Salt and Ammonia I will add nothing to the water until there is a bacterial colony established to remove the ammonia. Are you saying that I shouldn't have an "uglies" stage during this phase of Reef Maturation if that is all I add?

 

[eskymick]

I started a new reef two months ago and I’ve experienced nothing worse than a light dusting of diatom algae. Here is a list of things that I feel are helpful in minimizing the “uglies” in a new reef. Please don’t take these suggestions as “gospel”, but from what I have observed and what I have read I think that employing all or most will help:

• Refrain from starting with a substrate. If a substrate is desired, it might be worth considering adding one down the road.
• I used quarried dry “live” rock, but I also added some well-seasoned live rock from a veteran reefer friend (about 1/3 of the total volume of rock)
• Utilize a good source of bacteria and ammonium chloride (in a bottle) to start your cycle.
• Once the initial cycle has completed, resist the urge to stock your reef. Start by adding a clean-up crew … adding slowly to their numbers each week.
• When adding fish, start with a very small bio-load and feed VERY sparingly.
• Utilize additional bacteria sources (MicroBacter7 or other products) and pods, if necessary.
• As the reef develops, keep the pores of your live rock free from ditritus … use a powerhead or turkey baster and “blow” them off often.
• I use a filter sock in the sump.
• Refrain from chasing nutrient numbers. It seems a light dusting of green algae on the glass is helpful and healthful to the tank. It’s not a problem to remove it every couple of days. You’ll find it to be soon populated with pods. ULNS seems to be an invitation to disaster for a young reef.
• Start with a reduced lighting schedule. The fish don’t need eight to ten hours of light. The uglies love it.

I may have overlooked some things, but I’m a believer in all of the above.

Granted, I’m only two months in, and many bad things could still happen. But, I’m very happy with the progress so far, and I’m determined to make haste, slowly.

 

[sde1500]

I will add nothing to the water until there is a bacterial colony established

Same way that the bacteria you are feeding gets into the tank, in the wise words of Jeff Goldblum, "Life finds a way". Cyanobacteria possibly is the root of all life on earth, it will find a way into the tank. Algae spores as well. No matter what, they'll show up. Now, that doesn't mean expect to just let the entire tank be overtaken by them. In fact, it is encouraged to do what is possible to avoid them running rampant. The "uglies" stage is just basically stating that you WILL see some manner of diatoms, algae, cyano etc.

 

[brandon429]

Paul I spent a lot of time trying to find out those specifics, and along the way in forums I met some really neat people/employment centered around aspects of our hobby, these are what I recall

obligate hitchhikers, colonizers that must ride in on substrate, water transfer, or fish slime/snail shells and other vectors include: valonia, invasive macros, dinos, diatoms (always present in reefing, core presence, rarely blooms but common in early tanks everyone knows and sees) brush algae variants and red algae/rhodophyta are always requisite hitchhikers from those substrates above, and then there's chrysophytes, a common invader those have to come from other tank vectoring, they can't just waft in by the air.

Pretty much any tank invader other than cyanobacteria and cousins, and strains of green and black micro algae must ride in on surfaces. These tight groups can ride in on air, or in prep water contaminations as we make the tank

Nitrifying bacteria, and bacteria that nitrify that may not be classed in the common groups but still accomplish the same means, are mostly vectored in when preparing water, we aren't using autoclaved water so by nature nearly every sample we handle has contaminated filtration bacteria waiting to do their job given enough submersion time. it is possible for a gnat to land at a puddle for a drink, and pick up some nitrifiers on his appendages, then die in your reef and cross vector, its just more commonly routed by water sources. per Dr Tim/thread discussions

consider the simplest trick to reveal what comes in through the air, and what never will:

cup of sw, topped off, spiked w planted tank fertilizer, set on a windowsill for three mos in the summer



what does it develop? green red blue black etc, perhaps microdot algae, -maybe- GHA depending on your region, and that's it. what patches of fungus and molds too, eventually. but it never ever ever gets those invaders listed above, they have to come from tank sources directly associated with marine systems save for some of the various algae we get, those can be both fw and sw adapted, they'll show up in a windowsill cup if we run it enough times. Good call from Mick above

 

[PaulPerger]

I started a new reef two months ago and I’ve experienced nothing worse than a light dusting of diatom algae. Here is a list of things that I feel are helpful in minimizing the “uglies” in a new reef. Please don’t take these suggestions as “gospel”, but from what I have observed and what I have read I think that employing all or most will help:

• Refrain from starting with a substrate. If a substrate is desired, it might be worth considering adding one down the road.

• This will be hard, but I might try this...

• I used quarried dry “live” rock, but I also added some well-seasoned live rock from a veteran reefer friend (about 1/3 of the total volume of rock)

• My rock started dry, went through a bleach treatment, then cured for over a year (long story). There is nothing living on it whatsoever.

• Utilize a good source of bacteria and ammonium chloride (in a bottle) to start your cycle.
  [*]Once the initial cycle has completed, resist the urge to stock your reef. Start by adding a clean-up crew … adding slowly to their numbers each week.
  [*]When adding fish, start with a very small bio-load and feed VERY sparingly.
  [*]Utilize additional bacteria sources (MicroBacter7 or other products) and pods, if necessary.

• I plan to do all of these!
  

• As the reef develops, keep the pores of your live rock free from ditritus … use a powerhead or turkey baster and “blow” them off often.

• I had not heard this suggestion before. I can definitely do this, and it makes a lot of sense!
  

• I use a filter sock in the sump.

• I built my sump with the capability to have socks as I intend to use them initially, but hope to get away from the need to have them at some point.
  

• Refrain from chasing nutrient numbers. It seems a light dusting of green algae on the glass is helpful and healthful to the tank. It’s not a problem to remove it every couple of days. You’ll find it to be soon populated with pods. ULNS seems to be an invitation to disaster for a young reef.
  [*]Start with a reduced lighting schedule. The fish don’t need eight to ten hours of light. The uglies love it.

• This I plan to do as well... I may not turn lights on at all until I add a fish or two, and then they will be for a very short time. (like a few hours in the evening when we are home...)

I may have overlooked some things, but I’m a believer in all of the above.

Granted, I’m only two months in, and many bad things could still happen. But, I’m very happy with the progress so far, and I’m determined to make haste, slowly.

Thanks for your suggestions!

 

[Salty Lemon]

The "uglies" are a frequent topic on R2R. Just scroll up to and type in "uglies" and you will see all sorts of threads on the suject. Some of the information may help you. The "uglies" are primarily diatoms and various algae. Diatoms are the dusty brown algae-looking stuff that grows on everything -- everything. It starts showing up at the end of your tank cycle. It grows easily -- especially with a substrate. Eventually it does subside with proper care and water changes. The other algae can be kept at bay with maintenance and top-notch clean-up crew. If you can't keep up with it, there are products out there to help. It also helps to have a short light schedule. I know...the new tank is exciting and you love to look at everything in it -- even the live rock. But keep in mind that all algae grows better with the more light. But the first year of a reef or FOWLR tank it difficult -- especially if it is your first. Everyone will tell you in this hobby that patience is the key. And this is a good example. It will go away eventually. Just maintain your tank. If it doesn't, then we have to explore other problems.

 

[brandon429]

agreed on the pore dislodging too that's a great call. the ocean doesn't store up junk and organics in the high energy zone, we like corals from that area commonly and its less tank headaches to keep the detritus away from compaction and compounding.

another good call on a shorter light schedule, no need to be full production ramp up day 1 and Id add that heavier blue light, less white than norm has been implicated in suppressing invaders really well also

https://www.earth.com/news/bacteria-travel-thousands-miles/#.XJuk6_6osdV

 

[brandon429]

pre sand rinsing is a major deal as well, the directions say to add the floculant, but don't, pre rinse it in tap water until the new sand runs clear. then rinse in RO or tank water, then assemble. that step alone saves 100xx headaches and permanent clouds, we show

there is only one kind of live sand we don't rinse-real true live sand from TBS it has moving animals in it. If we're dealing with bagged sand that upon inspection has some grains, an errant fish hook lol and a bunch of silt that robs you of enjoyment, we pre rinse that as total outlaws.

 

[eskymick]

Here is a pic of my reef at two months. In addition to the points I mentioned earlier, I should add that this tank is a 25 gallon IM EXT and I have it plumbed to a 15 gallon sump. I do a 4 gallon water change weekly, and I do not yet have a skimmer installed. Nitrates are holding steady at 5 ppm. I have not yet begun testing for phosphate.

 

[Dom]

I am going to be adding water to my first SW tank very soon and I have heard many, many people talk about the "New Tank Uglies". I also read all the time that we should QT so as to not add things to our tanks we don't want, and that nothing gets into our tanks without us introducing those things to our tanks (i.e. Coraline Algae)... Which leads me to a few questions...

1. From where do the various "uglies" originate if they haven't been introduced to the tank previously? (i.e. Dinos, brown algae, etc.)
   
2. We have identified all sorts of ways to combat the "uglies" and they eventually go away, so is there any way to just avoid them altogether?
3. Are there any other real benefits to going through the "uglies" stage other than that they are a good indicator that we are heading in a good direction?

1. "New tank uglies" simply refers to the normal maturing process that a new tank will go through. It is something that should be permitted to happen as new tanks are out of balance, and this phase is the tank balancing out. Tank uglies appear because of a competitive imbalance. As an example, you may get something like brown algae because there isn't anything competing with it for it's food source. This is why letting it run it's course is important; so that competition for the food sources can grow and starve out the offending algae.

2. You don't want to avoid it as it is an important step to the finished product. You can minimize the appearance through manual removal. So I would suggest letting it run its course and use a toothbrush.

3. Think of new tank uglies as a waypoint on your journey to a healthy tank.

There are many people out there who will be quick to sell you all kinds of product designed to "fix" your issues. New tank uglies are not something to fix, but something to endure. It's hard to watch and that is why manual cleaning is a good strategy.

In the end, I feel over the counter solutions should be avoided when possible.

 

[brandon429]

That's a mighty, mighty invader free now and likely in the future due to highly specific design variables at work reef. Can't fail Mick