New to reef keeping and tank setup

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Lucas815

Lucas815

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The list looks great .
a few little minor things that could set your timing off a little ...

5 months seams like a rush to mature any tank to fulfill a mandarins diet or stability to add corals .

take your time and don’t rush .
Once you’re in the hobby , there is no way out .
My as well make the best of it .
take your time and enjoy every day .
Indeed, I intend to do this slow and steady.

The 5 months mark is only the moment where I'll start slowly adding more fish and corals, but it'll most likely take well over a year before it's fully stocked.

The steps would be something like this...
1. Buy and quarantine the fish, one at a time, for a couple weeks.
2. Add the fish to the tank with the proper acclimation method.
3. Monitor for another couple weeks.
4. If everything is fine, go back to step 1 for a new fish.

The Mandarin will indeed take a good while before it's added.
 

AcanthurusRex

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Take as a grain of salt; I have a RSR525 using similar equipment.
Have you purchased the tank. If not consider the Waterbox or better yet the CADE. I think RS has upgraded the cabinets but if they have not on this model then the others are a better choice. The CADE has an aluminum stand.
I have the ClearView top. Looks great new but like crap now. I think the DIY top looks better over time. The only issue is the feed door looks clumsy.
The red sea skimmers appear to work well. I have a Deltec with the neck cleaner and I don't think I would buy another skimmer without one.
I have an Vectra M1. I moved it to another tank but it has worked well for 2.5 years. Only issue is the Neptune can't control it.
The BRS RODI is easiest. You most likely have chloramines so you need all the stages. Just buy it now.
I have an AutoAqua on the QT. Has not failed. The Tunze has a better following.
I'd pass on the glass heaters and use a unregulated titanium.
The Neros eat fish. In my opinion the Vortechs are in a class of their own. The rest just seem like a rehash of an old RIO power head. When a Vortech needs cleaning I just power it off, throw another wet side on and go. I don't like the Gyres; pain to clean - so I don't.
I have Kessils but would not buy them again.
Really like the Marco shelf rocks; expensive.
Sand blows all over. I use very little just for decoration.
Hanna for Alk, phosphate ULR and copper. I like the red sea kits for Ca, Mg but I'm comfortable with titration. I wouldn't buy the stater test. Use a seachem ammonia badge and Fritz 900. Go slow as the nitrites can be a hidden issue. You will need the badges for QT.

I don't think cleaner wrasses ever live. A cleaner goby does a similar function and eats whatever.
Regals are difficult to QT. Mine adapted to QT well. I have created a PVC reef that the fish seem to like.
 
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Lucas815

Lucas815

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Take as a grain of salt; I have a RSR525 using similar equipment.
Have you purchased the tank. If not consider the Waterbox or better yet the CADE. I think RS has upgraded the cabinets but if they have not on this model then the others are a better choice. The CADE has an aluminum stand.
I have the ClearView top. Looks great new but like crap now. I think the DIY top looks better over time. The only issue is the feed door looks clumsy.
The red sea skimmers appear to work well. I have a Deltec with the neck cleaner and I don't think I would buy another skimmer without one.
I have an Vectra M1. I moved it to another tank but it has worked well for 2.5 years. Only issue is the Neptune can't control it.
The BRS RODI is easiest. You most likely have chloramines so you need all the stages. Just buy it now.
I have an AutoAqua on the QT. Has not failed. The Tunze has a better following.
I'd pass on the glass heaters and use a unregulated titanium.
The Neros eat fish. In my opinion the Vortechs are in a class of their own. The rest just seem like a rehash of an old RIO power head. When a Vortech needs cleaning I just power it off, throw another wet side on and go. I don't like the Gyres; pain to clean - so I don't.
I have Kessils but would not buy them again.
Really like the Marco shelf rocks; expensive.
Sand blows all over. I use very little just for decoration.
Hanna for Alk, phosphate ULR and copper. I like the red sea kits for Ca, Mg but I'm comfortable with titration. I wouldn't buy the stater test. Use a seachem ammonia badge and Fritz 900. Go slow as the nitrites can be a hidden issue. You will need the badges for QT.

I don't think cleaner wrasses ever live. A cleaner goby does a similar function and eats whatever.
Regals are difficult to QT. Mine adapted to QT well. I have created a PVC reef that the fish seem to like.

Indeed, the Rea sea reefer XL cabinets have been upgraded to plywood now.
I'm in Canada and my LFS dont have such a great inventory of available tanks.
It seems like the only high end option is Red sea. Water box looks great as well though.

I've heard about the Nero 5 fish sucking issue. I contacted AI and they told me that they're aware of it, and are working on a solution. In the meantime, 3D printed guards are available that seems to do the trick. They also fixed already the other issue, which was the weak magnet. It will now work up to 16mm.
While I've only read good things about MP40s, the HUGE part sticking outside the glass is a major turn off for me, as well as the price.
I'm still on the fence, but mostly leaning towards Nero 5s

For the Auto water change, my long term plan is to have Ecotech versa pumps to do the water changes, along with a Tunze ATO, but I cant justify the extra cost right now since I want to get a 4 pack of versas to get the "free" basestation, and wont need dosing for a while. That's why I thought about using the Autoaqua AWC for 1-2 years, and then switch to something more reliable.

I'll have to think carefully about the size and type of sand i'm using, but I really dont want to go barebottom because :
1) I personnaly think it's ugly.
2) I need deep sand for the wrasses to sleep in.
 
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