Nitrate Help

JAWSIII

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Good day all. I have a 65 tall that has been setup about 10 months. My current filter system includes a reed octo 100 hob, aqua clear 110 hob a fluval 407 canister and 70lbs live rock. The system did not come with a sump and is not drilled. My livestock consists of:

2 black clowns
1 anthias
1 yellow tang
1 vlamingi tang
2 blue chromis
1 flame shoulder angel
2 firefish
1 large torch
3 different Zoa groups in varying sizes
1 flowerpot coral
1 gsp
2 galaxeas in different parts of the tank
1 large bubble coral
3 peppermint shrimp
3 peppermint shrimp
2 emerald crabs
17-20 hermits

According to the last API aqua spin test at the LFS last week all my parameters were great except nitrate it was 32.

i apologize that I don’t have the exact parameters on hand. I get my water checked every week at the LFS with the spin test and usually it’s good but nitrates have been creeping up. I keep the fillers clean at least every 2 weeks all filters are rinsed in RO or tank water. I have denitrate media loaded in 2 of canister trays and I have the flow rate slowed way down. Since I loaded the denitrate media the readings have come down from 60 (ouch) 2 weeks ago to 32 last week. I’m going to test again tomorrow.

I am considering doing a DIY sump out of a 20 long with the soul purpose of loading it anerobic friendly media and cheato with as slow as water flow as possible thru the media. I know from keep freshwater when I had something similar that it helped. Does anyone have any testimony or advice on whether I should go thru the expense and time of doing a sump or should I continue and see if the downward nitrate trend continues with the media that I have now.

thanks
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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That is a fine level, Paul's runs about 160 on one of the best and longest-lived reefs here, I recommend take no action against nitrate.

lastly, the reading isn't supported in comparison threads. What I mean is if we take your brand of kit and look up comparison threads off a given sample, three different brands will have a fifty ppm spread, huge. you are dealing in approximations only, and if it were exact, that's a fine level to have.

this isn't a credit to any particular brand: all three are not agreeing, we don't even know which one is right/preferences apply.

no baseline, no digital reading calibration...that's what missing. the fact so many successful systems are built around completely opposite nitrate from true readings shows how safe it is to be in variance, tank to tank within reason. with the going verified high mark of 160 ppm, that's quite a safe zone to operate. lower zones 'll get you dinos, don't do it :)

a tank picture w show if you are having any issues with it. not a test kit, lets see the palette here

all the posts you read about somone stating a nitrate level, about 2% are accurate. the rest are fifty ppm off what any other kit would say.
 
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JAWSIII

JAWSIII

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63181992252__53AA5128-3209-4FCE-8C00-71D8B38DC196.jpeg
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IMG_1941.jpeg

Here are the latest pics as someone requested.. OK WOW thanks for the advice Ive always been under the impression that anything over 20PPM Nitrates were not good.

So overall you guys think a sump is really not needed?

If i were to do one these are the items I was looking at.

Do you guys think that a sump would be more beneficial in the long run or should I just leave it alone?

If yes sump then any recomendations for DIY are apprciated Im on a tight budget.

Thanks



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brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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Id would have to say hold course that's as fine as I could want a reef to look. adding sumps is fun for mechanical workings, poking around with new gear and measures but its not required for improvement, we'd want to hold course above until a picture shows issue plus a test reading. that's my take.

as you watch threads come and go online, don't just take notice of how every poster is just sure of their posted readings, look how the crowd of advice follows just the same, its a fascinating aspect of online forum patterning.

the misread threads are numerous, daily, constant, but somehow res public does not factor them in daily troubleshooting.

non digital test kits today are as accurate as a game of horse shoes or pin the tail

this causes unspeakable pain in cycling threads that I can assure

false ammonia readings are the bane of my exist
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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even if you get some diatoms or light algae, don't react with nitrates that's not where control is at, its physical.

either an animal removes it or you do, not a param, keep params where they are and be physical against reef uglies just like we're physical with dandelions out front until grass fills in to exclude.
 

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