Nitrate

Lower is better while learning. Aim for the range of 10-20. Zero is not a good number either.
 
How do you raise it from 0? This is a problem I'm having with my tank currently
 
How do you raise it from 0? This is a problem I'm having with my tank currently
Feeding more and less nutrient export. Can be more technical than this depending on your situation. Zero nitrate can bring on dinos.
 
How do you raise it from 0? This is a problem I'm having with my tank currently
How old is your tank? Mine read that when I set it up for first few days
 
Feeding more and less nutrient export. Can be more technical than this depending on your situation. Zero nitrate can bring on dinos.
I think that's what causing my dinos too, if that's what the brown stringy stuff all over my sand is. I've been trying to up feeding lately, I'll keep it up and hopefully, it will go away. I have a refugium light on 24/7 do you think this could be contributing to the problem too?
 
How old is your tank? Mine read that when I set it up for first few days
Previous owner had it running for atleast a year. I moved it to my place with all of the old water, live rock, and sand and its been about a month.
 
I think that's what causing my dinos too, if that's what the brown stringy stuff all over my sand is. I've been trying to up feeding lately, I'll keep it up and hopefully, it will go away. I have a refugium light on 24/7 do you think this could be contributing to the problem too?
Best to start a new thread. Include your parameters, white light photos, plus some under a microscope if possible. I've never had to deal with dinos personally.
 
Yes I agree with bringing up nitrate level, that could be one cause that I saw on a video.
 
I heard that the refugium should be on the opposite cycle than tank lights. I'm still in the beginning stages myself, that's what I'm doing since I set mine up on Saturday. My nitrates haven't moved as of yet. It's like weird science,,, lol!!!
 
-Nitrate = bad, is old thinking.
-Nitrate being present is needed for a healthy system. Lots of very healthy tanks have much higher nitrate.
-20 is fine, 40 too.
-Your system has a long way to maturity. Initial cycling is just the first step, give it a year or two for real stability. Let it go and ride things out. I would suggest time and no intervention.
 
Much appreciated sir, had a feeling wasn't sure thanks for the confirmation
 
-Nitrate = bad, is old thinking.
-Nitrate being present is needed for a healthy system. Lots of very healthy tanks have much higher nitrate.
-20 is fine, 40 too.
-Your system has a long way to maturity. Initial cycling is just the first step, give it a year or two for real stability. Let it go and ride things out. I would suggest time and no intervention.
I haven't tested anything in months and my tank is doing fine. If I had to guess my nitrate is probably close to 100. Maturity helps this as well as knowing what you have in the tank. I'm sure SPS and LPS would struggle as is.
 
I heard that the refugium should be on the opposite cycle than tank lights. I'm still in the beginning stages myself, that's what I'm doing since I set mine up on Saturday. My nitrates haven't moved as of yet. It's like weird science,,, lol!!!
I think there's merit to this, it helps stabilize pH by moderate CO2 consumption consistently throughout the day, I have chaeto in my fuge, and i also have opposite lighting cycle
 

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