One pump for two in line brs deluxe reactors?

[bjsreefer]

I’m thinking of setting up my two deluxe reactors in line, but how strong of a pump
Should that need for a 90G plus sump and does that make it less effective with the media reacting with? Going to run carbon and GFO

 

[MK300]

I’m thinking of setting up my two deluxe reactors in line, but how strong of a pump
Should that need for a 90G plus sump and does that make it less effective with the media reacting with? Going to run carbon and GFO

Have you thought about a manifold off of the return pump?

 

[bjsreefer]

I’m thinking of setting up my two deluxe reactors in line, but how strong of a pump
Should that need for a 90G plus sump and does that make it less effective with the media reacting with? Going to run carbon and GFO

Have you thought about a manifold off of the return pump?

That’s not too strong of flow? I was going to set my UV up on that , too, so didn’t want to overdo it

 

[UncommonSense]

That’s not too strong of flow? I was going to set my UV up on that , too, so didn’t want to overdo it

Your reactors and UV would never be on a supply from the full flow or the return pump; you simply put a Tee fitting in the return plumbing, so the return water can split two ways!

Then, you use a simple ball valve to restrict flow to one side of the tee, where it feeds the reactors and UV!

Just note that you shouldn’t let your UV remain running without water in it, or with stagnant water in it for extended periods of time… this will overheat the unit and fog the quartz UV bulb sleeve, or outright overheat and damage the UV sterilizer body/seals themselves!

 

[bjsreefer]

That’s not too strong of flow? I was going to set my UV up on that , too, so didn’t want to overdo it

Your reactors and UV would never be on a supply from the full flow or the return pump; you simply put a Tee fitting in the return plumbing, so the return water can split two ways!

Then, you use a simple ball valve to restrict flow to one side of the tee, where it feeds the reactors and UV!

Just note that you shouldn’t let your UV remain running without water in it, or with stagnant water in it for extended periods of time… this will overheat the unit and fog the quartz UV bulb sleeve, or outright overheat and damage the UV sterilizer body/seals themselves!

Got it! I put together a parts list and will be working on that on Thursday!

 

[bjsreefer]

That’s not too strong of flow? I was going to set my UV up on that , too, so didn’t want to overdo it

Your reactors and UV would never be on a supply from the full flow or the return pump; you simply put a Tee fitting in the return plumbing, so the return water can split two ways!

Then, you use a simple ball valve to restrict flow to one side of the tee, where it feeds the reactors and UV!

Just note that you shouldn’t let your UV remain running without water in it, or with stagnant water in it for extended periods of time… this will overheat the unit and fog the quartz UV bulb sleeve, or outright overheat and damage the UV sterilizer body/seals themselves!

Just making sure, so right now I have a plan to get 3 Y joints w barb connectors and essentially manifold off the main return line three separate times, correct? Then run the returns back into the first sump chamber?

 

[UncommonSense]

Got it! I put together a parts list and will be working on that on Thursday!

You can stack as many tees as you want either in a row, or in 3D! Just put a valve on each and they can be used later for other equipment…

Just be realistic about your needs and don’t throw $500 at a manifold you aren’t going to fully utilize!

 

[bjsreefer]

Got it! I put together a parts list and will be working on that on Thursday!

You can stack as many tees as you want either in a row, or in 3D! Just put a valve on each and they can be used later for other equipment…

Just be realistic about your needs and don’t throw $500 at a manifold you aren’t going to fully utilize!

Oh for sure. I just know I want at least the two reactors and the UV. In the future I may add an algae scrubber but for now that’s all I’m looking at. Adding a 4th manifold once I get how to do it though will be easy.

 

[UncommonSense]

Just making sure, so right now I have a plan to get 3 Y joints w barb connectors and essentially manifold off the main return line three separate times, correct? Then run the returns back into the first sump chamber?

Yup, return usually go back to the sump, first chamber is fine! — it isn’t as efficient as returning that water to the tank; but is less complex, plumbing-wise (balancing flow with valves on every line and all that messing about)!

 

[bjsreefer]

Meh my phosphate is at .9 right now. I care less about efficient and more about just getting the job done

 

[UncommonSense]

Oh for sure. I just know I want at least the two reactors and the UV. In the future I may add an algae scrubber but for now that’s all I’m looking at. Adding a 4th manifold once I get how to do it though will be easy.

Would it be cheaper/easier to just make the manifold out of threaded rigid PVC plumbing fittings, with barbed fittings in/out of the manifold?

 

[bjsreefer]

Are you saying make a 4 way manifold? What id really like is a y fitting then a 4way fitting just to make it easy- run gate valves off each branch from there.

 

[bjsreefer]

Oh for sure. I just know I want at least the two reactors and the UV. In the future I may add an algae scrubber but for now that’s all I’m looking at. Adding a 4th manifold once I get how to do it though will be easy.

Would it be cheaper/easier to just make the manifold out of threaded rigid PVC plumbing fittings, with barbed fittings in/out of the manifold?

So like in theory would something like this work?

 

[UncommonSense]

Are you saying make a 4 way manifold? What id really like is a y fitting then a 4way fitting just to make it easy- run gate valves off each branch from there.

You can do a series of T fittings in a row, you can make an H shape out of tees, you can use four way “cross” fittings… there are even six way PVC fittings!

Here’s a fun SLA 3D printed hexagonal manifold I made for my hexagonal tank, for example! (3/4” NPT in, 6x 1/4” NPT out!)

I wouldn’t recommend a gate valve on every single manifold outlet, mind you… you only NEED a gate valve where high precision tuning is desired… ball valves are substantially cheaper, and will still do the job for coarse adjustments, plus on/off control!

 

[bjsreefer]

Are you saying make a 4 way manifold? What id really like is a y fitting then a 4way fitting just to make it easy- run gate valves off each branch from there.

You can do a series of T fittings in a row, you can make an H shape out of tees, you can use four way “cross” fittings… there are even six way PVC fittings!

Here’s a fun SLA 3D printed hexagonal manifold I made for my hexagonal tank, for example! (3/4” NPT in, 6x 1/4” NPT out!)

I wouldn’t recommend a gate valve on every single manifold outlet, mind you… you only NEED a gate valve where high precision tuning is desired… ball valves are substantially cheaper, and will still do the job for coarse adjustments, plus on/off control!

Nice man you want to print me one? Haha jk

 

[UncommonSense]

So like in theory would something like this work?

Oh no… don’t use anything for drip irrigation… I can’t recall what type of plastic it typically is, but the water left in drip irrigation parts REEKS of plastic when you release it!

Use plastic designed for potable (drinking) water!

 

[UncommonSense]

Nice man you want to print me one? Haha jk

I actually have a spare, and I do I know a guy…

But, your application isn’t cosmetic, so just using Schedule 40 PVC will work fantastic, and be quite affordable!