Optimum settings for daycycle/blue lights?

Superlightman

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Hello,
I have 2 roleadro 165w roleadro wifi leds over my 560l mixed reef tank.
I was running until now the automatic day time mode. But i realised that I bleach probably some corals because of to much intensity as the setting was at 100% some hours during the day.
Now, I'm trying to made my owns settings and running blue maximum at 80% and white 50%.But it try to make a real sun cycle and increase and decrease the differents leds during the day. What would be the optimum settings/ hours. I can play separately only with 3 canals the whites, blue and Moonlightblue .
The whites are composed of 28 LEDs): Coolwhite 14000k, white 2700k, red 660nm, green 520nm.
Blue:Blue Channel (24 LEDs): Blue 460nm, violet 410nm
Moonlight Blue Channel (3 LEDs): royal blue 450 nm

I think moonlight blue should be turn on not only at night but all day as it seem to be important for photosynthesis?
I read also that in the ocean on the coral barrier the green an red light are dominant in the water, so why we all focus on the blue?
Is the blue in the ocean more intense in the morning /evening or during the day? I mean as in the morning their is less sunlight, maybe their is more blue or the contrary?
Sorry in case my English is not good I'm frome Europe.
 

blasterman

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Red and green light have little value for corals other than balance the color for our eyes. While red spectrum does promote chlorophyll growth the amount of it in a reef tank is so small it doesnt have any real value. Same with those stupid UV LEDs.

Same anecdotal evidence that excessive green/red light tells an acropora its growing shallow and to alter its growth pattern, but you would never run a reef tank light to simulate 1 foot ocean depth. What does your tank look like with whites only? Terrible. We run our tanks with typically 75% far blue light at a minimum regardless of light source. Even a light balanced for 10k , which is way warmer than most of us prefer is almost entirely blue light. So, any talk of colors other than blue is pretty much worthless. Just generates forum traffic.

A blue LED and cool white LED provide about the same amount of blue because a white LED is a blue LED with a bit of green and a lesser bit of orange in it. If you want to reduce bleaching turn the light down. Light period and light intensity are pretty much proportional. Ramp up and down periods dont alter this equation. A light turned down 50% equals half the photo period.
 
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Superlightman

Superlightman

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Red and green light have little value for corals other than balance the color for our eyes. While red spectrum does promote chlorophyll growth the amount of it in a reef tank is so small it doesnt have any real value. Same with those stupid UV LEDs.

Same anecdotal evidence that excessive green/red light tells an acropora its growing shallow and to alter its growth pattern, but you would never run a reef tank light to simulate 1 foot ocean depth. What does your tank look like with whites only? Terrible. We run our tanks with typically 75% far blue light at a minimum regardless of light source. Even a light balanced for 10k , which is way warmer than most of us prefer is almost entirely blue light. So, any talk of colors other than blue is pretty much worthless. Just generates forum traffic.

A blue LED and cool white LED provide about the same amount of blue because a white LED is a blue LED with a bit of green and a lesser bit of orange in it. If you want to reduce bleaching turn the light down. Light period and light intensity are pretty much proportional. Ramp up and down periods dont alter this equation. A light turned down 50% equals half the photo period.
Hello thanks for your answer.
But look here they seems to say different about the red:

And here violet.

Here another article that shows that the blue isn't the dominant in a reef:

And here à new type of full spectrum led that showed better results that the usually mainly blue spectrum.

I'm confuse after all this.
 

oreo54

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Well you got a lot of the pertinent literature..
As to red, it's sort of all over the board but it's pretty clear that intense red or red alone is NOT very good.
The rest is mostly by taste and meeting intensity demands of your choice of corals.

Est of your light on full (no moonlight) in relation to ocean spectrums at various depths..
spectrum7.JPG
 

Bpb

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Red and green light have little value for corals other than balance the color for our eyes. While red spectrum does promote chlorophyll growth the amount of it in a reef tank is so small it doesnt have any real value. Same with those stupid UV LEDs.

Same anecdotal evidence that excessive green/red light tells an acropora its growing shallow and to alter its growth pattern, but you would never run a reef tank light to simulate 1 foot ocean depth. What does your tank look like with whites only? Terrible. We run our tanks with typically 75% far blue light at a minimum regardless of light source. Even a light balanced for 10k , which is way warmer than most of us prefer is almost entirely blue light. So, any talk of colors other than blue is pretty much worthless. Just generates forum traffic.

A blue LED and cool white LED provide about the same amount of blue because a white LED is a blue LED with a bit of green and a lesser bit of orange in it. If you want to reduce bleaching turn the light down. Light period and light intensity are pretty much proportional. Ramp up and down periods dont alter this equation. A light turned down 50% equals half the photo period.

This post is why forum advice you receive when asking a broad stroke question is dangerous to take
 

Bpb

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Hello thanks for your answer.
But look here they seems to say different about the red:

And here violet.

Here another article that shows that the blue isn't the dominant in a reef:

And here à new type of full spectrum led that showed better results that the usually mainly blue spectrum.

I'm confuse after all this.

Put quite simply. If your light is a black box designed for reef use, just set your full spectrum color to taste honestly. Someone like myself would prefer the white channel equal to the blue channel as I prefer a full spectrum appearance in the 10-14k range.

Ideally...measure par to set your max intensity levels accordingly for what you’re keeping. 350-400 for sps, 75-150 for soft corals. Provide 8 hours of this “higher” intensity full spectrum light, and if you like the solid blue thing, just run the blue channel for 2 hours before and 2 hours after. That simple. So long as you don’t provide TOO MUCH light, and you don’t change it up constantly, there isn’t really a “wrong” answer.
 
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Superlightman

Superlightman

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Thanks for the graphic.
The white channel is equivalent to the blue? Really?
 
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Superlightman

Superlightman

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I like to mix the two.
I really need to buy a par meter just for use one time?
 

oreo54

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Ok i will see if I can rent one not sure is possible in Europe
Getting back a bit to your orig question:

There isn't an easy way to emulate nature.. w/ your lights or not..
As the day progresses, the natural light emitted by the sun changes in color, angle, and intensity.

Circadian-sun-progression-RGB-768x315.jpg


As to a par meter, you could roughly estimate using a LUX meter and the lights hung in the air..
It's tricky and best only as an approx. but it is "sometimes" better than nothing..

Lux meters are fairly cheap and easy to come by...
 

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