peroxide dosing

[Dburr1014]

That is what I'd predict. The phosphates are elevated. Lower them to under .1 and the hair algae will not be able to root as well on the rocks. Slowly increase your nitrates or you will have the potential of getting dinos, which is more toxic and harder to get rid of.

Do you have any documentation to support this claim? Either claim that 1) hair algae can't root with phosphate under 0.1ppm and 2) zero nitrate has the potential to cause dinos.

I would like to read any articles on the subjects.

IME, hair grows well in any nutrient level and my personal system runs zero nitrate with zero dino blooms.

 

[Dburr1014]

Already have Brown diatoms. I use Phosguard in a bag and change regularly. I also use Phosphate absorbing pads and change regularly. Why raise Nitrates? And, how do you do that?

If you would like to raise nitrates I suggest dosing ammonium. Once you have enough ammonium, nitrates will rise.


EDIT;

Tell us more about your system.
Fish, inverts, ect..
Got a picture?

 

[unclejed]

If you would like to raise nitrates I suggest dosing ammonium. Once you have enough ammonium, nitrates will rise.


EDIT;

Tell us more about your system.
Fish, inverts, ect..
Got a picture?

Well, zero Nitrates and zero Phosphates has always been the goal for aquariums. I don't exactly know where you are coming from. My aquarium is a simple FOWLR. No other inhabitants. Narrow lined Puffer, File fish and a Ocellaris clown.

 

[Dburr1014]

Well, zero Nitrates and zero Phosphates has always been the goal for aquariums. I don't exactly know where you are coming from. My aquarium is a simple FOWLR. No other inhabitants. Narrow lined Puffer, File fish and a Ocellaris clown.

0 nitrates and 0 phosphates has not been the goal for aquariums in the past 20 years. That is old science and has been proven time and time again that they starve Coral. Current science says one phosphates plus or minus .05 and nitrates up to 1.0ppm. ( which is completely debatable)

But since you are fish only, I would suggest having some of both because zero phosphates will contribute to Dino's in the system, but you don't have to have a hard number to go by.

 

[Subsea]

That is what I'd predict. The phosphates are elevated. Lower them to under .1 and the hair algae will not be able to root as well on the rocks. Slowly increase your nitrates or you will have the potential of getting dinos, which is more toxic and harder to get rid of.

Dinoflagellate do not become a problem until phosphates bottom out. However, zero nitrates & zero phosphates are an invitation to produce a dinoflagellate bloom mixed in with Cynobacteria.

 

[Bohemian Waxwing]

Tests might be showing zero but I would imagine that there is enough proudction it’s just being used by the algae.

Before going nuclear, I’d try to add pitho crabs, turbo snails, and an urchin. Peroxide dosing worked for me temporarily for dinos but they eventually always came back.

Once your clean up crew is beefed up, ammonia dosing/nitrate dosing plus phosphate dosing/feeding reef roids and flakes should help long term.

This is just my experience. It took my tank quite a while to finally come back into balance after my Cyano/dinos/bubble algae plague stage. It wasn’t until I took a longer term approach with some patience that I started to win the war.

 

[unclejed]

Tests might be showing zero but I would imagine that there is enough proudction it’s just being used by the algae.

Before going nuclear, I’d try to add pitho crabs, turbo snails, and an urchin. Peroxide dosing worked for me temporarily for dinos but they eventually always came back.

Once your clean up crew is beefed up, ammonia dosing/nitrate dosing plus phosphate dosing/feeding reef roids and flakes should help long term.

This is just my experience. It took my tank quite a while to finally come back into balance after my Cyano/dinos/bubble algae plague stage. It wasn’t until I took a longer term approach with some patience that I started to win the war.

Appreciate the input and of course I know all about CUC, however, I have a Narrow Lined Puffer in there and so no CUC.

 

[Bohemian Waxwing]

Appreciate the input and of course I know all about CUC, however, I have a Narrow Lined Puffer in there and so no CUC.

Oops :D My bad. No CUC will make it tough for sure. When I worked at a reef shop we would just bleach half the rocks in each FOWLR tank, wait 2 weeks, then bleach the other half. This would buy us a few months before the rocks started getting nasty again. We also had rabbitfish and tangs to work on it.

I may have missed it but what size tank, and are there corals in it?

 

[Dburr1014]

The only other way, that I can think of, is fluconazole. It can be micro dosed and will take 21 days to completely irradicate GHA. If* you want to take that route.
It won't bother the fish at all.

 

[Rollnwthdatide]

So it's been a while since I took organic chem but doesn't peroxide dissociate pretty fast so dosing it in a reef tank at an extremely dilute concentration is just doing nothing?

 

[unclejed]

Oops :D My bad. No CUC will make it tough for sure. When I worked at a reef shop we would just bleach half the rocks in each FOWLR tank, wait 2 weeks, then bleach the other half. This would buy us a few months before the rocks started getting nasty again. We also had rabbitfish and tangs to work on it.

I may have missed it but what size tank, and are there corals in it?

You are making me laugh Is FOWLR! It is a Biocube 32.