Phosphate

[Hilltopreef90]

I’ve been having major gha issues and working to lower my phosphates
My phosphate was 0.26 a few days ago and now it’s 0.13. I’ve been dozing with NOPOX, my nitrates are about 2 based on the color chart
I used a Hanna checker for the phosphate.
Should I continue to dose with the NOPOX ?

 

[vetteguy53081]

I’ve been having major gha issues and working to lower my phosphates
My phosphate was 0.26 a few days ago and now it’s 0.13. I’ve been dozing with NOPOX, my nitrates are about 2 based on the color chart
I used a Hanna checker for the phosphate.
Should I continue to dose with the NOPOX ?

My best success with this has been simply adding a pouch of Chemipure elite. It will lower it, keep it in check, polish your water and remove any toxins IF present

 

[jcates]

Used nopox for quite a while and I am sure it helped but it never got me when I wanted to be or thought I needed to be. The main reason I quit using it was the slime that would show up and I never linked the two. I was only using half the recommendation on dosage so it wasn't caused by over dosing it. I've started an algae reactor and just use Brightwell Phosphat-E for adjustment

 

[ShakerBreaker]

Highly recommend a biological solution for phosphates. Algae reactor, scrubber, or fuge. Outside of that, have you tested the water you are using for water changes for phosphates? I fought for years with mine on my first tank, only to find out that there was some in the well water I was using.

 

[jsker]

I’ve been having major gha issues and working to lower my phosphates
My phosphate was 0.26 a few days ago and now it’s 0.13. I’ve been dozing with NOPOX, my nitrates are about 2 based on the color chart
I used a Hanna checker for the phosphate.
Should I continue to dose with the NOPOX ?

My I have your checker model number please? On my HI736, a .13 converted would be a .040ppm which is right were you need to be at link to conversion chart

 

[Rmckoy]

My I have your checker model number please? On my HI736, a .13 converted would be a .040ppm which is right were you need to be at link to conversion chart

The model he’s using measures phosphates in ppm .
If it were the phosphorus ppb tester there would be the need for conversion .

 

[Rmckoy]

The only way I was able to lower phosphates was to add cheato and rowaphos
Any other dosing such as nopox lowered nitrates a lot faster only making things worse .

 

[jsker]

I am using a product call NitraPhos minus from Aquaforest. I have used GFO, vibrant, Pool Phosphate remover, NoPox, and other products. The NitraPhos Minus has worked the best to reduce phosphates without side effects to the system.

I also put online again, bio pellets/carbon dosing. I am waiting for the Bio pellets to kick in and reduce my Nitrates

One other question, how long has you system been setup?

 

[Hilltopreef90]

My I have your checker model number please? On my HI736, a .13 converted would be a .040ppm which is right were you need to be at link to conversion chart

HI774
Now I’m totally confused ‍I got the Hanna checker thinking it would be easier to know if my levels were ok. I don’t know what I’m supposed to be at anymore.
Some say 0 others say it’s ok to have some phosphate. I do know my algae problem is way out of control and assume it’s because my phosphate level was too high
I’m upgrading to a bigger tank with a sump and plan to use a refugium hopefully this won’t be an issue again but I still don’t understand what I’m shooting for with my phosphate levels.

 

[attiland]

I’ve been having major gha issues and working to lower my phosphates
My phosphate was 0.26 a few days ago and now it’s 0.13. I’ve been dozing with NOPOX, my nitrates are about 2 based on the color chart
I used a Hanna checker for the phosphate.
Should I continue to dose with the NOPOX ?

I would go slower from this point you can go too low with a small mistake. I would probably look into algae reactor or scrubber instead.

My I have your checker model number please? On my HI736, a .13 converted would be a .040ppm which is right were you need to be at link to conversion chart

The picture say it is in ppm. No conversation required.

 

[Hilltopreef90]

I would go slower from this point you can go too low with a small mistake. I would probably look into algae reactor or scrubber instead.

The picture say it is in ppm. No conversation required.

I’m not understanding the purpose of the conversion chart, why I’d need to be converting phosphate or where my phosphorus level comes into play.
Simple question should I be checking my water chemistry weekly/monthly ? And what should I be checking ? At this point I’m only dealing with soft corals and lps with the hope of adding sps in the future.
I’ll be upgrading to a 90 gallon with a 25 gallon sump, none of the rock or water from my current tank are transferring over just fish,inverts and the few soft corals left in my tank not attached to any rock.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I’m not understanding the purpose of the conversion chart, why I’d need to be converting phosphate or where my phosphorus level comes into play.
Simple question should I be checking my water chemistry weekly/monthly ? And what should I be checking ? At this point I’m only dealing with soft corals and lps with the hope of adding sps in the future.
I’ll be upgrading to a 90 gallon with a 25 gallon sump, none of the rock or water from my current tank are transferring over just fish,inverts and the few soft corals left in my tank not attached to any rock.

Well, first, trying to stop algae growth by restricting nutrients is often going to fail anyway. Better options are typically biological control with organisms that eat it, and manual removal. That said, trying to lowering phosphate to the 0.02-0.05 ppm range is a fine action to take.

Second, Hanna makes several checkers with different units. That's why conversion was mentioned. Like feet vs inches.

But yours (in the picture) is reading ppm phosphate and that is what most people discuss and it needs no conversion.

There are many good ways to lower phosphate that all work as long as you use the right amount (not too much and not too little). Water changes are not one of them, however.

 

[jsker]

HI774
Now I’m totally confused ‍I got the Hanna checker thinking it would be easier to know if my levels were ok. I don’t know what I’m supposed to be at anymore.
Some say 0 others say it’s ok to have some phosphate. I do know my algae problem is way out of control and assume it’s because my phosphate level was too high
I’m upgrading to a bigger tank with a sump and plan to use a refugium hopefully this won’t be an issue again but I still don’t understand what I’m shooting for with my phosphate levels.

@Randy Holmes-Farley has given you the most sound advice above. My phosphates have been hovering at a .04

 

[Hilltopreef90]

Well, first, trying to stop algae growth by restricting nutrients is often going to fail anyway. Better options are typically biological control with organisms that eat it, and manual removal. That sadd, trying to lowering phosphate to the 0.02-0.05 ppm range is a fine action to take.

Second, Hanna makes several checker with different units. That why conversion was mentioned. Like feet vs inches.

But yours (in the picture) is reading ppm phosphate and that is what most people discuss and it needs no conversion.

There are many good ways to lower phosphate that all work as long as you use the right amount (not too much and not too little). Water changes are not one of them, however.

I was using NOPOX but was told it’ll lower my nitrates, I’m probably going to use a reactor and add a good GFO, I’ve tried gfo in media bags and it doesn’t seem to help much.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I was using NOPOX but was told it’ll lower my nitrates, I’m probably going to use a reactor and add a good GFO, I’ve tried gfo in media bags and it doesn’t seem to help much.

Organic carbon dosing (like NOPOX) is not a good way to reduce phosphate and does more for nitrate.

GFO works very well, but works most efficiently in a reactor where it can mix and water can get to all of it. large types of materials (such as aluminum oxide) can work in a mesh bag, but risne it really well as aluminum has its own issues.

 

[attiland]

I’m not understanding the purpose of the conversion chart, why I’d need to be converting phosphate or where my phosphorus level comes into play.
Simple question should I be checking my water chemistry weekly/monthly ? And what should I be checking ? At this point I’m only dealing with soft corals and lps with the hope of adding sps in the future.
I’ll be upgrading to a 90 gallon with a 25 gallon sump, none of the rock or water from my current tank are transferring over just fish,inverts and the few soft corals left in my tank not attached to any rock.

The advice from @Randy Holmes-Farley answered most of this.
I would go for weekly tests for most of the parameters at least in the beginning. Later you cans test less frequently wen you see the parameters better and can predict tendencies

I was using NOPOX but was told it’ll lower my nitrates, I’m probably going to use a reactor and add a good GFO, I’ve tried gfo in media bags and it doesn’t seem to help much.

I am not a fan of GFO but this is more like a personal preference.

 

[am3gross]

Do you know where your Phosphates were coming from in the 1st place? My Phosphates have came in from RO water that I have been using. If you dont know the source then you might be fighting an uphill battle.

Mike

 

[Hilltopreef90]

Do you know where your Phosphates were coming from in the 1st place? My Phosphates have came in from RO water that I have been using. If you dont know the source then you might be fighting an uphill battle.

Mike

I change my Rodi filters and resin regularly and the Tdi meter is new.
I think they just got out of control when I got lax with water changes and maintenance and it’s going to take time and consistent maintenance to get it under control

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Do you know where your Phosphates were coming from in the 1st place? My Phosphates have came in from RO water that I have been using. If you dont know the source then you might be fighting an uphill battle.

Mike

How do you know that was the main source? It is very unusual to have that be the main source, unless it was untreated tap water, despite seeing phosphate in it. Foods are typically far larger of a source.

Aquarium Chemistry: Phosphate And Math: Yes You Need To Understand Both

Foods are by far the most important source of phosphate in most aquariums. In considering whether sources of phosphate other than foods are important, one must carefully look to the actual amounts involved to determine whether other sources are even worth trying to minimize.

reefs.com

Comparison of Food Sources of Phosphate to Other Sources
What about other sources of phosphate, like the “crappy” RO/DI water containing 0.05 ppm phosphate? A similar analysis will show it equally unimportant relative to foods.

Let’s assume that the aquarist in question adds 1% of the total tank volume each day with RO/DI to replace evaporation. Simple math shows that the 0.05 ppm in the RO/DI becomes 0.0005 ppm added each day to the phosphate concentration in the aquarium. That dilution step is critical, taking a scary number like 0.05 ppm down to an almost meaningless 0.0005 ppm daily addition. Since that 0.0005 ppm is 40-600 times lower than the amount added each day in foods (Table 4), it does not seem worthy of the angst many aquarists put on such measurements. That said, tap water could have as much as 5 ppm phosphate, and that value could then become a dominating source of phosphate and would be quite problematic. Purifying tap water is important for this and many other reasons.

 

[am3gross]

How do you know that was the main source? It is very unusual to have that be the main source, unless it was untreated tap water, despite seeing phosphate in it. Foods are typically far larger of a source.

Aquarium Chemistry: Phosphate And Math: Yes You Need To Understand Both

Foods are by far the most important source of phosphate in most aquariums. In considering whether sources of phosphate other than foods are important, one must carefully look to the actual amounts involved to determine whether other sources are even worth trying to minimize.

reefs.com

Comparison of Food Sources of Phosphate to Other Sources
What about other sources of phosphate, like the “crappy” RO/DI water containing 0.05 ppm phosphate? A similar analysis will show it equally unimportant relative to foods.

Let’s assume that the aquarist in question adds 1% of the total tank volume each day with RO/DI to replace evaporation. Simple math shows that the 0.05 ppm in the RO/DI becomes 0.0005 ppm added each day to the phosphate concentration in the aquarium. That dilution step is critical, taking a scary number like 0.05 ppm down to an almost meaningless 0.0005 ppm daily addition. Since that 0.0005 ppm is 40-600 times lower than the amount added each day in foods (Table 4), it does not seem worthy of the angst many aquarists put on such measurements. That said, tap water could have as much as 5 ppm phosphate, and that value could then become a dominating source of phosphate and would be quite problematic. Purifying tap water is important for this and many other reasons.

I took a gallon of my RODI water mixed with salt and tested it. The level in my fresh saltwater was .26, where my tank is at .07 and rising. Unless the phosphates were coming from the salt, which I don't think is possible, but I may be wrong. I guess it might not be the main source, but it is definitely a source.

Mike