Plumbing questions with a couple of pictures

[reefing is my hobby]

Hello after educating myself with the search tool. I think that I have more questions than answers.
I am working with a planet aquarium 180-gallon tank that comes with 2 2inch bulkheads for the overflow box it is a planet aquarium 16inch box that came with the tank it has 3 1inch pre-drilled holes outside of the tank and a plumbing kit for the aforementioned box. I also have planet aquarium's 48inch sump that has 2 1 1/2 return ports and 1 1-inch return port (I assume emergency).
I am planning on setting the plumbing up as a bean animal overflow system. I will also be using 2 dc pumps 1 for return (2000gph max) and a second one that has a max flow of 583gph for my UV light.

The first question that I have is I was only supplied with 1 rubber gasket per bulkhead and I think that I should have 2 1 for between the inner glass and inner basket and 1 for outer glass and outer box. Is just 1 gasket sufficient or should I get myself a second gasket?

Second question or more a concern then a question. My overflow Box is pre-drilled for 3 return lines all in 1 inch, I feel that is going to be a choke point for at what speed that I set my return pump at, thankfully I have a DC pump so I can run it at what the drains can handle and I am also planning to use reducers as soon as it leaves the box and run 1 1/2 inch pipe for better flow. Am I right with my thinking and my plan of action? See picture…

The third question is on a bean animal system you only drill a siphon hole on the taller one of the two drain lines correct?

The fourth question is about gate valves, I only install a gate valve on the short portion of the two drain valves correct?

The fifth question is the emergency drain, I am planning on not routing it to the 1" hole that is pre-set in the sock chamber instead I will be running it directly to return pump section of the sump. Instead, I will be having my return line from the UV light installed in that port. Question is do I place the pump in my skimmer section (the one that I think is best) which will be before the refuge or in the return pump section? I rather not give my pods a suntan. See picture…

Sixth question on the return manifold how many t's with ball valves for future needs should I go with? I am planning at least one.

The seventh and final question I know that Waterbox with their systems uses a check valve on their return lines in the past I never did that instead I used a siphon hole. Which is better or incorporating both?

Oops, my eighth question for a very balanced return I am thinking about ordering 2 additional flow meters and 2 additional gate valves and balancing out my return flow. I haven’t decided and unforeseen problems if I do so?

Note: to the pictures just using visuals to show that overflow box with the 3 1-inch drains and the 3 pre-installed pipe drains to the sump

 

[Garets92553]

Only one gasket on top against glass you don’t want two of them. 1 inch pipe is fine. I only run 1 single 1 inch return and a 1 inch drain with a 1 inch emergency. On my 220. I would do 4 Ts for your reactor. Gives you plenty of option later. I run my UV with my one pump and drains back into return chamber next to my pump.

 

[Greg P]

A gasket between the inner box and glass will ensure NO water leaks out through the threads during a pump off situation. If your sump can handle your tank draining down to the bottom height of the threads you're OK. I like my DT to stop draining at the weir height so installed gaskets on BOTH sides of the glass.

I installed unions and then 1 to 1-1/2 adaptors on my back box drains. Then I ran 1-1/2 all the way to the sump. With my previous setup it was all 1" and wasn't enough for my pump as my drains are over 4 feet to my sump room. Now it handles everything my pump can throw at it.

 

[Greg P]

This is Bean's design. Pictures I kept from His website.

 

[Greg P]

You can run the Emergency drain anywhere you like. I have mine above the waterline so I can hear if it's running.

My UV and Chiller are both in my Skimmer chamber. This ensures an always full and non-fluctuating environment.

Go with @Garets92553 manifold suggestion. I personally don't use a manifold but rather use separate pumps for everything, but I have a very large sump.

I use a check valve on my return line right after the pump. My only purpose for this is to stop the annoying splashing which occurs when the pump is turned back on. All that air in the lines makes a mess until it's cleared out.
I don't use flow meters or valves on my return lines. Instead, I ran the 1" line as close as possible to the tank, then split it with a Tee. Everything after that is identical in size so no need for manually balancing things.
I don't use a siphon-break hole as they can plug up and also can spray where you don't want them to. My return locline fittings are only half submerged so no worry about backflow siphoning the DT into the sump.


If you don't mind some added cost, I replaced my 3 bulkhead drains with threaded units. This way I can take things apart in the future.

Although I have a Bean-capable box, I only run a Herbie. Regardless, here's some pics for you

 

[Greg P]

Supporting all that weight is important so you don't break the back box, or worse, crack the tank !!

 

[reefing is my hobby]

I want to say thank you to each and every one of you. For your responses seems very logical and fills in the gaps of where I need/wish to be. Thank you

 

[Greg P]

For anyone else wanting to run a Bean setup. I thought his site was done for - guess it was just down last time I looked.

Bean Animal's Bar and Grill

 

[K7BMG]

I doubt you will ever be able to compleatly ballance out the return lines.
The flow meters make sense so you know what your total flow actually is.
But I think the gate valves are over the top on the return lines.

I am a ridiculously over the top guy.
Example:

I started out with a BRS 6 stage RO/DI unit.
I am on a well and have no chlorines. My TDS input has never been over 180.
Have always had 0 TDS output but....

But still, I up graded that system to a 7 stage and still 180 in 0 TDS out.
Then added a 10 inch big blue sediment filter before the RO/DI, into a pressure booster to the 7 stage.
Runs at 85 pounds

That was not good enough so I upgraded again and went with two 10 inch DI Canisters per resin.
Still 180 in 0 out.

But again, still not good enough so I ordered 9 20 inch canisters and am in the assembly process of having three 20 inch canisters for each DI resin stage. 60 inches of resin, capacity per...

I ordered a second 20 inch big blue sediment filter to install before the 10 inch

The 6 10 inch canisters I had for the resins will now be carbon canisters.
Oh yea and I have two three port TDS meters for redundancy.

So my RO/DI system when completed will be as follows.

Position #
#1 20 inch big blue with a .5 micron sediment filter one inch plumbing.
#2 10 inch big blue with a .5 micron sediment filter one inch plumbing.
#3 Pressure booster. 3/8ts plumbing.
#4 Three 10 inch canisters with the BRS sediment filter.
#5 Six 10 inch carbon canisters.
#6 200 gallon per day RO unit.
#7 3 20 inch canisters for the Cation stage.
#8 3 20 inch canisters for the Anion stage.
#9 3 20 inch canisters for the mixed bed stage.
YMMV

At this point I may not have water in my water LoL...

 

[slojim]

if you copy the bean pictures, you only need one gasket. Sounds like you have an inner box and outer box (I wish I'd done that) - so you'll need 2 gaskets per hole like you said - each box gets one between it and the glass. I also siliconed around the inner box - I really didn't want a leak, and I did get a small chip when I drilled my holes.
I have 1" bulkheads that, after a union, expand out to 1 1/2. I have a lot less flow than you, but for me, it's too big. It made it hard to work with, keeps the tank too far from the wall, and if I want to pinch back on the siphon drain, I have to shut the valve almost all the way. I usually don't, because I have other restrictions later on purpose - but I'd expect that to be plenty to handle your flow. In fact, for me, it takes some effort to purge the air, since the large diameter pipe is flowing slowly.
I think most of your bean questions are answered - but there is some nuance in reading his post vs looking at his sketches. He allows the 2 valves on the non-siphon line are not necessary. I didn't use them - I didn't want anything to plug the emergency drain, and I ran the emergency drain straight down and into the closest part of my sump. The siphon drain might need to be down near your sump - you need the line to be full to get a good siphon.
The advantage of siphon holes is they are less likely to fail you, and you'll have to make sure you've planned for full back flow into your sump. But check valves can keep your return line full for an easier restart. I don't use them on my tank, but if I ran a long way up from a basement type installation I'd think about it.
Bean cut his elbows to make grates for snail-proofing. I found it was easier to use bulkhead strainers - I use a regular one pointing up for the emergency and low profile ones for the siphon and drain pointing down.
It's a good system.