Pny
Active Member
Just realized - I have no tank thread on reef2reef! *shock*
I've been in the marine aquarium hobby for about 12 years, and a reef2reef member just a few years less (member since 2011). I started with a very large tank that was converted from a fresh water planted tank. During these years I've been mostly keeping fish (FOWLR) and a few hardy coral species, always struggling with the more advanced corals such as sps for various reasons. I later got this second tank to be able to try out more advanced reefing in a smaller tank (without ruin the bank). The tank was run a few years as a reef tank but the last few years the tank has been without corals. I'm currently in a slow process of getting it back... Here's a presentation of my current state. (Before reading, please note that english is not my native language)
Description
The aquarium, a white cabinet with a reef cube, 60x60x60 cm in low iron glass, is designed to be a mixed reef, as a supplement to my larger FOWLR tank that I already have. The aquarium was bought second hand with standard glass in December 2013. The glass was changed to low iron glass in 2019.
System Profile
I run a quallity skimmer from Royal Exclusiv, a DC return pump from Jebao, stream pumps and ATO from Tunze. The aquarium is illuminated with a 3rd generation Radion Pro from Ecotech. The aquarium contains about 20 kg of live rock. The bottom substrate is white coral sand.
The aquarium has a DIY sump (50x50x40 cm) below the aquarium. It has 4 sections. One large section for the skimmer, reactors and possible future equipment, a little section with a filter pad for mechanical filtration and a compartment for the return pump. The fourth section is separated from the others for ATO osmosis water. The sump was built by the previous owner. The ATO section holds water for about 1-1.5 weeks between refills. I refill this container manually. The water is filtered by a five stage reverse osmosis unit that produces water for both my tanks. The RO has a booster pump and is capable of generating 400 gpd. The water quality is measured with an inline TDS meter on the RO.
A DIY STC-1000 temperature controller regulates the temperature by controlling the heater. The temperature controller provides redundancy to the thermostat in the heater and thus provides protection against accidental overheating of the aquarium at any fault in the heater.
A 3 channel Kamoer dosing master and a 4 channel slave dosing pump is used for supplementation. The Balling light method is used to provide the aquarium with Calcium, Magnesium, Alk and Trace elements. Three channels on the Kamoer dosing pump is used for the Balling salts and a fourth channel is used for carbon dosing. The carbon source (vinegar) keeps the nitrate and phosphate levels low.
A first generation Clarisea fleece filter, Clarisea SK-10, provides mechanical filtering of the water.
Two DIY upflow reactors with phosphate absorption media helps keeping the phosphate levels low.
Cabinet and Construction
The cabinet was built by the previous owner of the tank and is built with 22mm MDF and reinforced with stainless steel details. The bench is screwed, glued and painted white. The lower part of the cabinet holds a sump with all the filter equipment, and is internally sound proofed. The upper part, which is also soundproof hides the lightning and minimizes light scatter outside the aquarium. The equipment has been carefully selected to minimize noise. Fans are provided in both top and bottom for ventilation.
The aquarium is drilled with 3 holes, two pipes down and one pipe up. The overflow is a Herbie type overflow made of 25 mm PVC.
More
This is the second of two tanks I am currently running. The first one, a FOWLR, can be found here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-fowlr-that-wants-to-be-a-reef-tank.675984/
Tank Specifications
System Profile
Equipment list
Livestock
The live stock is still very light since the tank was restarted just a few months ago, and I still struggle with the initial algae blooms...
Fish
Goldtail demoiselle, Chrysiptera parasema (x2) - (Sept 2019)
Photos
Chrysiptera parasema.
Old photo, in its full glory (1).
Old photo, in its full glory (2).
Old photo, in its full glory (3).
Sump before I added the fleece filter.
Sump.
Sump layout.
Pipes.
DIY reactors.
Ozone.
Latest.
I've been in the marine aquarium hobby for about 12 years, and a reef2reef member just a few years less (member since 2011). I started with a very large tank that was converted from a fresh water planted tank. During these years I've been mostly keeping fish (FOWLR) and a few hardy coral species, always struggling with the more advanced corals such as sps for various reasons. I later got this second tank to be able to try out more advanced reefing in a smaller tank (without ruin the bank). The tank was run a few years as a reef tank but the last few years the tank has been without corals. I'm currently in a slow process of getting it back... Here's a presentation of my current state. (Before reading, please note that english is not my native language)
Description
The aquarium, a white cabinet with a reef cube, 60x60x60 cm in low iron glass, is designed to be a mixed reef, as a supplement to my larger FOWLR tank that I already have. The aquarium was bought second hand with standard glass in December 2013. The glass was changed to low iron glass in 2019.
System Profile
I run a quallity skimmer from Royal Exclusiv, a DC return pump from Jebao, stream pumps and ATO from Tunze. The aquarium is illuminated with a 3rd generation Radion Pro from Ecotech. The aquarium contains about 20 kg of live rock. The bottom substrate is white coral sand.
The aquarium has a DIY sump (50x50x40 cm) below the aquarium. It has 4 sections. One large section for the skimmer, reactors and possible future equipment, a little section with a filter pad for mechanical filtration and a compartment for the return pump. The fourth section is separated from the others for ATO osmosis water. The sump was built by the previous owner. The ATO section holds water for about 1-1.5 weeks between refills. I refill this container manually. The water is filtered by a five stage reverse osmosis unit that produces water for both my tanks. The RO has a booster pump and is capable of generating 400 gpd. The water quality is measured with an inline TDS meter on the RO.
A DIY STC-1000 temperature controller regulates the temperature by controlling the heater. The temperature controller provides redundancy to the thermostat in the heater and thus provides protection against accidental overheating of the aquarium at any fault in the heater.
A 3 channel Kamoer dosing master and a 4 channel slave dosing pump is used for supplementation. The Balling light method is used to provide the aquarium with Calcium, Magnesium, Alk and Trace elements. Three channels on the Kamoer dosing pump is used for the Balling salts and a fourth channel is used for carbon dosing. The carbon source (vinegar) keeps the nitrate and phosphate levels low.
A first generation Clarisea fleece filter, Clarisea SK-10, provides mechanical filtering of the water.
Two DIY upflow reactors with phosphate absorption media helps keeping the phosphate levels low.
Cabinet and Construction
The cabinet was built by the previous owner of the tank and is built with 22mm MDF and reinforced with stainless steel details. The bench is screwed, glued and painted white. The lower part of the cabinet holds a sump with all the filter equipment, and is internally sound proofed. The upper part, which is also soundproof hides the lightning and minimizes light scatter outside the aquarium. The equipment has been carefully selected to minimize noise. Fans are provided in both top and bottom for ventilation.
The aquarium is drilled with 3 holes, two pipes down and one pipe up. The overflow is a Herbie type overflow made of 25 mm PVC.
More
This is the second of two tanks I am currently running. The first one, a FOWLR, can be found here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-fowlr-that-wants-to-be-a-reef-tank.675984/
Tank Specifications
System Profile
| System Water Volume: | 216 liter (57 US gallons) |
| Display tank: | 60x60x60cm, 216 liter low iron glass tank |
| Sump: | 50x50x40cm DIY glass sump with a built in ATO reservoir |
| Display Stand: | DIY stand |
Equipment list
| Lighting: | Ecotech Radion G3 Pro + Reeflink |
| Skimmer: | Bubble King Mini 180 |
| Return pump: | Jebao DCP-5000 (1415 gph) |
| Flow: | Tunze Nano Stream 6040 |
| Filter: | Clarisea SK10 fleece filter |
| Filters: | 2x DIY 1.5 liter upflow reactors |
| Dosing: | Kamoer KSP-F03 & KSP-F04 (3+4 chn master and slave) |
| ATO: | Tunze osmolator 3155 |
| Temp Control: | DIY STC-1000 |
| Heater: | Eheim Thermocontrol Electronic, 25W |
| Ozone: | Sander Certizon 25 mg/h |
| Cooling / Ventilation: | DIY PC fan |
| Auto Feeder: | Eheim 3581 |
| Reverse Osmosis: | 5 stage 400 gpd Reverse osmosis |
The live stock is still very light since the tank was restarted just a few months ago, and I still struggle with the initial algae blooms...
Fish
Goldtail demoiselle, Chrysiptera parasema (x2) - (Sept 2019)
Photos
Chrysiptera parasema.
Old photo, in its full glory (1).
Old photo, in its full glory (2).
Old photo, in its full glory (3).
Sump before I added the fleece filter.
Sump.
Sump layout.
Pipes.
DIY reactors.
Ozone.
Latest.
Last edited:
