Powder Brown Tang - ich id

[Judson_f]

Good evening!

Noticed these white bumps on otherwise perfectly healthy swimming & eating powder brown tang. Looking for 2nd opinion & recommended first steps as it’ll be the first time dealing with a health issue for me & it’s in the display. Worth mentioning my new/upgrade tank will be here in two weeks, so not too worried about this tank anymore but do still have corals in it. TIA

 

[Judson_f]

Hopefully this video works, but clip of him swimming I literally just took

 

[GFX360x]

Doesn't look hateful yet if it is ich. If he's eating normally, I'd keep feeding him and add selcon.

Also depends if you're trying to run a sterile tank or manage the disease present.

Only way to rid a tank of ich is to quarantine and run the tank fallow (fishless) for 70+ days.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Good evening!

Noticed these white bumps on otherwise perfectly healthy swimming & eating powder brown tang. Looking for 2nd opinion & recommended first steps as it’ll be the first time dealing with a health issue for me & it’s in the display. Worth mentioning my new/upgrade tank will be here in two weeks, so not too worried about this tank anymore but do still have corals in it. TIA

these look like mucus cones often associated with skin irritation or even past ich or marine ich. Best treatment will be in a separate treatment tank either using hyposalinity (1.009) or coppersafe for 30 days at 2.5 treatment level monitored by Hanna test kit - Not Api brand.

 

[Judson_f]

Doesn't look hateful yet if it is ich. If he's eating normally, I'd keep feeding him and add selcon.

Also depends if you're trying to run a sterile tank or manage the disease present.

Only way to rid a tank of ich is to quarantine and run the tank fallow (fishless) for 70+ days.

Yeah, id rather them be healthy and have a sterile tank. Also yes - I inspect them like every single day lol so if it is I think I saw it early ish because I didn’t notice any spots yesterday and now there are two noticeable ones and a couple hard to see ones.

I’m thinking of managing with selcon like you said until new tank gets here and then trying to figure out a way to turn this current 75 into a QT … but might have my hands full juggling between cycling a 220, the corals, and treating these guys. Ugh. Wife is gonna kill me going from 1 to 3 all at once between a transfer & a QT ‍

 

[Judson_f]

these look like mucus cones often associated with skin irritation or even past ich or marine ich. Best treatment will be in a separate treatment tank either using hyposalinity (1.009) or coppersafe for 30 days at 2.5 treatment level monitored by Hanna test kit - Not Api brand.

Thank you vetteguy!

 

[Judson_f]

these look like mucus cones often associated with skin irritation or even past ich or marine ich. Best treatment will be in a separate treatment tank either using hyposalinity (1.009) or coppersafe for 30 days at 2.5 treatment level monitored by Hanna test kit - Not Api brand.

Also not sure if you remember me - had briefly commented about a blue tang I had die on me (new) - I think the fish I got was just sick or severely over stressed from the traveling. Since that one I did add another & it’s great & survived lol

 

[GFX360x]

Yeah, id rather them be healthy and have a sterile tank. Also yes - I inspect them like every single day lol so if it is I think I saw it early ish because I didn’t notice any spots yesterday and now there are two noticeable ones and a couple hard to see ones.

I’m thinking of managing with selcon like you said until new tank gets here and then trying to figure out a way to turn this current 75 into a QT … but might have my hands full juggling between cycling a 220, the corals, and treating these guys. Ugh. Wife is gonna kill me going from 1 to 3 all at once between a transfer & a QT ‍

I've had a saltwater tank for about 10 years at this point in time... My first tank was a 75 gallon and ended up being neglected for quite a while (you couldn't even see into it for months) Cleaned it up and moved it to my new house, kept 2 clowns and a damsel while splitting my time between my other half's place and mine. Now were all moved into my place and she decided she wanted corals. A tank upgrade and plumbing to the basement later, I now have 5 tanks (2 are taken down until after we get back from vacation next month) and 2 fallow. She wanted an anemone and that didn't turn out the way she expected.

Luckily she buys into my hobbies. We will see once everything is up and running how on board she stays.

There is a good write up on management vs keeping things sterile. Depending on how often you plan on adding fish/corals, etc... management may be the best route to take. If i can find the thread I will add it here for you.

 

[Judson_f]

I've had a saltwater tank for about 10 years at this point in time... My first tank was a 75 gallon and ended up being neglected for quite a while (you couldn't even see into it for months) Cleaned it up and moved it to my new house, kept 2 clowns and a damsel while splitting my time between my other half's place and mine. Now were all moved into my place and she decided she wanted corals. A tank upgrade and plumbing to the basement later, I now have 5 tanks (2 are taken down until after we get back from vacation next month) and 2 fallow. She wanted an anemone and that didn't turn out the way she expected.

Luckily she buys into my hobbies. We will see once everything is up and running how on board she stays.

There is a good write up on management vs keeping things sterile. Depending on how often you plan on adding fish/corals, etc... management may be the best route to take. If i can find the thread I will add it here for you.

I’m just gonna let her read that and be like “see? I could be worse and have 5” hahahah but dang! Then she’d bring up my step sons tank & my brother’s (who is temporarily living with me) and I guess I’d be at 5 too technically. Shoot. Hahaha I think I’m just going to get a 40 breeder and set up a QT, it would be wise to QT each fish before releasing in the 220 anyways and would certainly keep a very safe pace of bio load additions.

What would be your opinion on coral transfer? If it is ich, I don’t remember the life cycle stage names, couldn’t their eggs or what have you live on things like that? Or could I sufficiently trust a coral dip or something to take them out? Otherwise I guess it’ll be a 70 day wait once last fish is in QT to start moving a single darn coral lol

 

[GFX360x]

I’m just gonna let her read that and be like “see? I could be worse and have 5” hahahah but dang! Then she’d bring up my step sons tank & my brother’s (who is temporarily living with me) and I guess I’d be at 5 too technically. Shoot. Hahaha I think I’m just going to get a 40 breeder and set up a QT, it would be wise to QT each fish before releasing in the 220 anyways and would certainly keep a very safe pace of bio load additions.

What would be your opinion on coral transfer? If it is ich, I don’t remember the life cycle stage names, couldn’t their eggs or what have you live on things like that? Or could I sufficiently trust a coral dip or something to take them out? Otherwise I guess it’ll be a 70 day wait once last fish is in QT to start moving a single darn coral lol

Nothing good comes fast - is definitely the way to approach everything that has to do with reefing. If you're upgrading to a bigger tank, have you looked into UV? And again, you have to decide whether or not you want it disease free or not. There is a lot that goes into it and a wealth of information on here to dig through.

Coral transfer is pretty straightforward. There are people who set up the tank and transfer right away and others who cycle before transferring. Are you planning on using your old rock or starting with all new rock? Bare bottom tank or substrate? etc...

Personally, I'd cycle the tank and do a bunch of reading while you wait. That gives you time to decide on everything and treat your fish if the issue becomes more than what is showing.

 

[Judson_f]

Nothing good comes fast - is definitely the way to approach everything that has to do with reefing. If you're upgrading to a bigger tank, have you looked into UV? And again, you have to decide whether or not you want it disease free or not. There is a lot that goes into it and a wealth of information on here to dig through.

Coral transfer is pretty straightforward. There are people who set up the tank and transfer right away and others who cycle before transferring. Are you planning on using your old rock or starting with all new rock? Bare bottom tank or substrate? etc...

Personally, I'd cycle the tank and do a bunch of reading while you wait. That gives you time to decide on everything and treat your fish if the issue becomes more than what is showing.

Oh I’m gonna get a sheet of black plastic and silicon seal it to bottom for bare bottom tank, all new Marco dry-live rock going to cycle it slowly, figure can QT a couple fish while it cycles, once I know it’s good put a couple QT’d fish into new tank and put another fish into the QT. This way I know new tank is sterile & fish are healthy. All I meant by coral transfer was that I haven’t done a ton of research on the illnesses yet - I meant no point in quick transferring corals if they could’ve got ich tomonts on them. So even after all fish are QT’d one at a time before release into new tank - I will have to run the current 75 an extra 72 days before transferring the coral to ensure they’re free of ich and I have a sterile new big tank & can break down the old one. Lol old live rock is not coming to new tank as it has red planaria and wouldn’t match nor look good with Marco white.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Good evening!

Noticed these white bumps on otherwise perfectly healthy swimming & eating powder brown tang. Looking for 2nd opinion & recommended first steps as it’ll be the first time dealing with a health issue for me & it’s in the display. Worth mentioning my new/upgrade tank will be here in two weeks, so not too worried about this tank anymore but do still have corals in it. TIA

I can see six or so probable ich trophonts. However ich doesn’t typically just start up out of nowhere. How long have you had the tang? Any recent additions to the tank?

The way to tell ich from mucus plugs is that ich is usually smaller, can show up on the fins, and tend to come and go in different locations every few days - if you see that, watch out for gradually increasing numbers, that can be a sign of a full blown outbreak.

If it is ich, it can sometimes be managed by using a powerful UV, good water quality and siphoning the sand every night. Selcon is a good food additive, but it has no demonstrated benefit in treating ich.

Jay

 

[Judson_f]

I can see six or so probable ich trophonts. However ich doesn’t typically just start up out of nowhere. How long have you had the tang? Any recent additions to the tank?

The way to tell ich from mucus plugs is that ich is usually smaller, can show up on the fins, and tend to come and go in different locations every few days - if you see that, watch out for gradually increasing numbers, that can be a sign of a full blown outbreak.

If it is ich, it can sometimes be managed by using a powerful UV, good water quality and siphoning the sand every night. Selcon is a good food additive, but it has no demonstrated benefit in treating ich.

Jay

Thanks Jay! And have had the tang for 7 days - he is the newest addition. Lol I know the QT is a must spiel

- EDIT - Sorry that sounded incredibly rude. I’m just annoyed at myself for learning the hard way lol

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Thanks Jay! And have had the tang for 7 days - he is the newest addition. Lol I know the QT is a must spiel

- EDIT - Sorry that sounded incredibly rude. I’m just annoyed at myself for learning the hard way lol

I’m not 100% that it is ich, but you need to monitor things and be prepared in case it is.

Your options are: ich management (often with crossed fingers), hyposalinity in the tank itself (no invertebrates though) or copper treatment in another tank.

Jay

 

[GFX360x]

Here is the thread I was referring to yesterday. Worth a read, as it is a polarizing topic between hobbyists. Without starting over, I know I have ich in my tank so I try to keep the fish as healthy as possible.

The Other Way to Run a Reef Tank (no Quarantine)

The other way to run a reef tank (No Quarantine) I was asked by my friend Humblefish to start a thread on my practices of running a tank with no quarantine, hospital tanks, medications, dipping or almost anything else. It is "not" just to take a fish from a store and drop it in your reef...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Judson_f]

I’m not 100% that it is ich, but you need to monitor things and be prepared in case it is.

Your options are: ich management (often with crossed fingers), hyposalinity in the tank itself (no invertebrates though) or copper treatment in another tank.

Jay

Hey Jay, the following day I noticed all white spots in the picture posted here were completely gone, however there were two new white spots on his opposite side. The fish still looks, swims, eats, and breathes healthily all aside from the white bumps. Also the following day i noticed a white spot on my scopas tang right pectoral fin that wasn't there before either. So it does seem like ich at this point i believe ..

My current plan is to go get a cheap QT from petco saturday with a simple HOB filter, then swing by the LFS (1.5 hours away) to buy live rock in the hopes i will not need to wait for this QT to cycle. Then begin the copper treatment saturday night or sunday.

For anyone else reading this thread -
I plan on incorporating the QT into my upgrade tank procedure at this point. I will have the new tank in my possession around july 11, and hopefully wet by end of july. At this point i am planning on transferring QT treated fish only to the new tank as they complete a full QT regimen. One or two fish at a time.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Hey Jay, the following day I noticed all white spots in the picture posted here were completely gone, however there were two new white spots on his opposite side. The fish still looks, swims, eats, and breathes healthily all aside from the white bumps. Also the following day i noticed a white spot on my scopas tang right pectoral fin that wasn't there before either. So it does seem like ich at this point i believe ..

My current plan is to go get a cheap QT from petco saturday with a simple HOB filter, then swing by the LFS (1.5 hours away) to buy live rock in the hopes i will not need to wait for this QT to cycle. Then begin the copper treatment saturday night or sunday.

For anyone else reading this thread -
I plan on incorporating the QT into my upgrade tank procedure at this point. I will have the new tank in my possession around july 11, and hopefully wet by end of july. At this point i am planning on transferring QT treated fish only to the new tank as they complete a full QT regimen. One or two fish at a time.

Starting a QT with live rock is an option, but it will absorb some copper, so you will need to test and add small partial copper doses to make up for that loss. Bottled bacteria is another option.

Hopefully, things won’t go sideways on you between now and Saturday though!

Jay

 

[Judson_f]

Starting a QT with live rock is an option, but it will absorb some copper, so you will need to test and add small partial copper doses to make up for that loss. Bottled bacteria is another option.

Hopefully, things won’t go sideways on you between now and Saturday though!

Jay

My brother just used fritz turbo from BRS on his new 15 cube start and it still took just over a week to actually cycle .. this is not a bad review for it as my brother can be dim at times lol just made me want to find a more sure fire way of having a nitrogen cycle before risking any of my fish further lol
That LFS keeps substrate sauce in stock that worked in my step sons start up nano. So I might get that & live rock then monitor copper closely. Still researching and learning myself up on medical side of fish keeping today. Do not want to lose any of my fish lol

 

[Judson_f]

Hey everyone,

So the powder brown is the one I BELIEVE that brought it in. PBT & Scopas got it, then blue tang. On PBT & Scopas it was clearly white spots & white spots only. They seem to have beaten it on their own & show no signs or symptoms of illness. Blue tang got it last & looks awful. I believe it was made worse due to the PBT a showing increased aggression to tank mates - bad. I am probably going to try and re home him after treatment. However - blue tang looked terrible, and the other two only had white spots. But blue tang looks like it has dark spots now too? No idea what it is was wondering if anyone can see? Attaching pics next

 

[Judson_f]

Sorry the white on this light isn’t very good on my phone camera. Anyways got him moved to a cycled QT with my two clowns that will be mainstays to the new tank as well. They show no signs but treating anyways.

The blue tang looked really rough. Is this still just ich or could it be more than just that?