predosing nitrates & phosphates into auto water change container

[SeeFu]

Is it ok to just dose a ton of nitrate and phosphates into my auto water change container? If I have a 33gal water change container and I do 1 gal water change every day and need 10ml of each nitrate and phosphate, can i just dump 330 ml of each phosphate and nitrate into the water change container? If I do this will it be just as effective as if I were to dose every day directly into the DT?

 

[flampton]

No because it's based on the rate of evaporation. Plus you're going to grow a lot of bacteria that may clog your lines. Do not recommend

 

[SeeFu]

i'm not using my ATO to predose the nitrate and phosphate. I have a set schedule of 1 gal/day of auto water change.

 

[bam123]

Just put food in your tank. No need to overcomplicate things.

 

[SeeFu]

i'm up to 5 feedings a day and w/o dosing i get 0/0

 

[flampton]

If you have a extra doser that would be best. If you add to ATO you will eventually run into bacterial problems. If you feel comfortable with the math I recommend dosing ammonia instead of nitrate. If not I understand. Also disodium or dipotassium phosphate are preferred.

You could potentially make a mix but need it to be highly concentrated in the nitrogen component or again you'll run into bacterial problems eventually

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Is it ok to just dose a ton of nitrate and phosphates into my auto water change container? If I have a 33gal water change container and I do 1 gal water change every day and need 10ml of each nitrate and phosphate, can i just dump 330 ml of each phosphate and nitrate into the water change container? If I do this will it be just as effective as if I were to dose every day directly into the DT?

That's a fine way to do it. Just keep it in the dark so it doesn't grow algae in it and use up what you are adding.

Exact dosing is certainly not critical.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

If you have a extra doser that would be best. If you add to ATO you will eventually run into bacterial problems. If you feel comfortable with the math I recommend dosing ammonia instead of nitrate. If not I understand. Also disodium or dipotassium phosphate are preferred.

You could potentially make a mix but need it to be highly concentrated in the nitrogen component or again you'll run into bacterial problems eventually

Assuming you are not talking about cyanobacteria, how are bacteria going to become a problem? No organics to eat.

 

[SeeFu]

That's a fine way to do it. Just keep it in the dark so it doesn't grow algae in it and use up what you are adding.

Exact dosing is certainly not critical.

yea its in a coat closet in one of those blue water barrels. i figure that should be dark enough.

 

[chipmunkofdoom2]

If you have a extra doser that would be best. If you add to ATO you will eventually run into bacterial problems. If you feel comfortable with the math I recommend dosing ammonia instead of nitrate. If not I understand. Also disodium or dipotassium phosphate are preferred.

You could potentially make a mix but need it to be highly concentrated in the nitrogen component or again you'll run into bacterial problems eventually

The OP is not talking about putting NO3/PO4 in their ATO, they're talking about putting it in the auto water change system.

 

[chipmunkofdoom2]

i'm up to 5 feedings a day and w/o dosing i get 0/0

+1. Feeding extra doesn't seem to do anything for me either. I think my skimmer is too good at removing dissolved organics before they break down to nitrate and phosphate. Either that, or 2 frozen cubes and 4 - 6 little scoops of pellets every single day isn't enough to raise nutrients.

 

[SeeFu]

+1. Feeding extra doesn't seem to do anything for me either. I think my skimmer is too good at removing dissolved organics before they break down to nitrate and phosphate. Either that, or 2 frozen cubes and 4 - 6 little scoops of pellets every single day isn't enough to raise nutrients.

i turn off my skimmer for 4 hrs a day. maybe have to up that.

 

[chipmunkofdoom2]

i turn off my skimmer for 4 hrs a day. maybe have to up that.

I was thinking about running my skimmer on a timer as well. I'm going to wait until the nutrients are stable and dinos are gone before messing with nutrients any further. Once they clear up, I'll try backing down the skimmer a few hours a day and seeing where the nutrients go.

 

[flampton]

Haha I was a bit slow yesterday. Man long days... Anyways you will still get bacterial contamination but might not matter if you have decent tubing size that isn't clear.

Assuming you are not talking about cyanobacteria, how are bacteria going to become a problem? No organics to eat.

Well cyano would be a problem in the line if the tubing is clear and the sump is lit.

Keeping the container dust free over a period of time would be problematic. First bits of carbon enter the system the heterotrophs will start consuming bits as well as DNRA prokaryotes will start growing on the bottom. Then nitrifiers will start growing in the aerobic section. Then heterotrophs will start growing on the carbon supplied by the nitrifiers. And on and on...

This won't happen immediately but will over time.

Oh and OP make sure your salt has no added carbon, like tropic marin bio actif. Id also be wary of Red Sea salt

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Oh and OP make sure your salt has no added carbon, like tropic marin bio actif. Id also be wary of Red Sea salt

Agree. I dislike salts that have organics, including Reef Crystals, for fear of bacteria growth. I like to store salt water for extended periods and do not want to aerate it.

 

[SeeFu]

i use reef crystals and usually store it for up to 2 months. i have 30 gal brute that always has salt water ready and then a 33 gal container that i use for auto water change. maybe i should stop making that extra 30 gal brute container.

 

[flampton]

i use reef crystals and usually store it for up to 2 months. i have 30 gal brute that always has salt water ready and then a 33 gal container that i use for auto water change. maybe i should stop making that extra 30 gal brute container.

Again then I'm voting against adding phosphate and nitrate to your reef crystals water. Still recommend dosing it some other fashion. Not exactly sure what bacteria you will grow but reef crystals has vitamins.

It also seems to have EDTA but not sure. Hey Randy if you're still following this thread. Has anyone established what the heavy metal detoxifier is in Reef Crystals? I imagine it is a chelator of some kind.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Again then I'm voting against adding phosphate and nitrate to your reef crystals water. Still recommend dosing it some other fashion. Not exactly sure what bacteria you will grow but reef crystals has vitamins.

It also seems to have EDTA but not sure. Hey Randy if you're still following this thread. Has anyone established what the heavy metal detoxifier is in Reef Crystals? I imagine it is a chelator of some kind.

I agree I would not add nutrients to Reef Crystals, nor would I store it.

IO doesn't reveal the chelator in Reef Crystals, but I agree it is some type. Another reason to not use it, IMO.

I prefer normal IO to RC for this reason, as well as the presence of "vitamins" of unknown type and quantity.